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Old 02-12-2010, 07:53 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by jeepsrule View Post
...but how hot does the refrigerator vent get? The wire is rated for 105 degrees C and high abrasion resistance.
When the fridge is running, I can still work with the stuff around the vent, etc. It feels to me like the heat from a dryer vent when the dryer is running, so maybe 120-140 degrees F. 105C is 221 degrees F so there won't be a problem.

Stewart
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Old 02-13-2010, 06:27 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by Luv2go View Post
When the fridge is running, I can still work with the stuff around the vent, etc. It feels to me like the heat from a dryer vent when the dryer is running, so maybe 120-140 degrees F. 105C is 221 degrees F so there won't be a problem.

Stewart
Thank you, I was thinking there was a good safety margin there but didn't remember working to much with the refridge vent on my previous trailer.
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Old 03-21-2010, 04:51 PM   #31
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How many panels

Hello all, Don here in MT. On a 40' coach how many panels would you recommend. I think I could get 4 panels easily on the roof.

I will need a 2500W inverter and plan to camp more remote than in parks. I saw on note where the people camp up to 18 days and that is us.

My question is this. We now have 6 golf cart batteries in our present coach with 2 for the house batteries. I am leaning toward all 6 as house batteries and also hooked up to the inverter. Pro's and con's?

Thanks, Don
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Old 03-21-2010, 09:46 PM   #32
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Ive been told youll need 60-120w of solar for every 100amp hr of batt. I have 8- 60w panels & 678amp hrs
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Old 03-22-2010, 11:00 AM   #33
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Hello all, Don here in MT. On a 40' coach how many panels would you recommend. I think I could get 4 panels easily on the roof.

I will need a 2500W inverter and plan to camp more remote than in parks. I saw on note where the people camp up to 18 days and that is us.

My question is this. We now have 6 golf cart batteries in our present coach with 2 for the house batteries. I am leaning toward all 6 as house batteries and also hooked up to the inverter. Pro's and con's?

Thanks, Don
Four 135 watt panels would be a good start. You definitely should have four house batteries, that is what we have for about 450 amp/hrs. During the summer you should get a lot of charging from the sun. 10hrs of charging with four 135 watt panels should give you 200 amp/hrs per day.
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Old 03-22-2010, 12:24 PM   #34
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Well I finely got my project complete installing 8 -60w solar panels on my rig 38CK SOLAR PANEL
I fixed them with none tilting attachments, the cheapest I could find.alum bracketsc/ stanless steel w-lock nuts & antiseze MOUNTING BRACKET
Ran # 10 ga wire from the panels I used stake on butt conectors with dielectric greese & heat shrink through 1 seal tight to 2 combiner boxes from AM Solar,CB COMBINER BOX 4 panels to each box from there I went with #6 wires down through to connect to a FM-60 Outback charge controller.CHARGE CONTROLLER
I ran the + wires & tied them together @ the terminals through a 125a 12v breaker to act as a disconnect then back individual through a 20a 12v resetting breaker to the charge controller, all mounted on the charge controller mounting board I installed in the basement of the trailer. (Should I just tie them together from the breaker switch through 1 20a resetting breaker or 2 breakers like I have?) Photos will be added later.

On the out going side I ran #2/0 welding cable to a 40a 12v resetting breaker through a battery disconnect and then on to the battery banks.

The neg side in I just ran straight to the charge controller and out to the shunt block for the tri metric unit.In #6 wire out #2/0 welding cable TRI METRIC UNIT

The battery banks contest of 4-6v Costco batt. Wired with #2/0 welding cable
And 3 group 27 marine deep cycle batts. 678 Amp Hr total

1 of the 12v batts is wired through an isolator and it just for starting the gen set witch is an older batt the rest are new.
I figure ill run this configuration until I fry the isolated batt then hook the gen up to the regular batts. So they will all discharge & recharge at relativity the same rate

I have a 1800w marine xaniex inverter wired up also using #2/0 welding cable 400a fuse & battery disconnect PRO 1800 WATT INVERTER.

The battery banks are fused with 400a blocks & battery disconnects as well. I built my own battery boxes out of hardwood, fiber glassed & resin. I ventilated the top of the box using new vacuum hose kits from Home depot so the have a quick disconnect on the top of the box for when I need to service the batteries. I have also installed a 12v brushless motor from Radio Shack in the exhaust port inside the box so it pushes the air through the vent tube I have the wire for the motor stapled to the box through to the out side and just have male / female connectors there to disconnect the fan motors when you need to service the batteries.

The 12v motor power supply is coming from the charge controller and is set to where it only supplies power when the panels are providing power to the charge controller. The vent tubes are hooked together with a Y connector & vented through the exterior of the basement wall.
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Old 04-09-2010, 01:13 AM   #35
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I added 450 watts of solar to my mh. about $2500 invested,( all self installed) It powers all my direcTV stuff, and a hot water return system. I can sit for days, and not start the gen.
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Old 04-09-2010, 09:44 AM   #36
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I added 450 watts of solar to my mh. about $2500 invested,( all self installed) It powers all my direcTV stuff, and a hot water return system. I can sit for days, and not start the gen.
Could you describe your hot water return system?
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Old 04-10-2010, 06:22 PM   #37
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Could you describe your hot water return system?
It's really a very easy thing to do. I installed a "Watts" hot water recirculation system in my house. Costco - Watts Premier Hot Water Recirculation Pump got tired of waiting for the hot water.

I needed to have two zones, if you will due to the plumbing layout.
Costco sells the additional zone units, for about 40 bucks give or take. Costco - Watts Premier Sensor Valve Kit For Hot Water Recirculation Pump

I got the Idea for the M/H, when I saw these kits. I just purchased an add on kit. and hooked it up under the sink, in the Bathroom, (last fixture in the plumbing line) the hard part come with the pump. I didnt'want to use a 110v pump due to having to run either an inverter, or gen set.
and most battery powered pumps will get hot, and quit trying to pump hot water. Then I was doing a little research for pumps, and stumbled onto these. Hot Water Circulating Pumps, March, Hartell and Ivan EL SID It's a small induction drive 12vdc coolant pump for solar heat systems. The EL sid is the one I have.
Kinda pricey, but perfect for the application. draws only 5 watts, and I just put a switch inline to turn it off when not needed. When I'm Boondocking, and I turn on the hot water in the bathroom, or shower, I have instant hot water, without waiting, or running it down the drain, and wasting all that much needed water. I'm trying to find a timer or thermostat, so I can reduce the time it acctually runs, and maybe shut it down for the night, like I do at home.
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Old 05-12-2010, 02:17 PM   #38
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It doesn't matter what you use for panels. The controller goes as close to the batteries as possible without being in the same compartment and use at least a #4 wire from panels to batteries a #2 wire is ideal. Way too many so called solar experts are installing the wiring too small to get the power from your panels to the batteries. The whole thing is about getting power to the batteries.

See my post under boondocking "Solar That Really Works".

Ralph
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Old 05-13-2010, 10:27 PM   #39
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With a 22 volt panel a solar boost controller makes economical sense. With the 17 volt panel it is almost a waste of money.

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Old 05-13-2010, 11:18 PM   #40
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Wouldn't putting 17 volts to the batteries be hard on the batteries?
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Old 05-14-2010, 10:16 AM   #41
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It most certainly would be very hard on the batteries.
I apologize for my poor communication skills. I meant using a less expensive controller without the solar boost capability instead of not using a controller at all.

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