Take extra batteries when boondocking?

[Dooger54]

Originally Posted by RubiconTrail

You've gotten a ton of good advice here. Summary:

In addition I would add a high qualify multi level battery charger like a IOTA such as this one IOTA DLS-45-IQ4, 12V 475A Converter Charger w/ Internal IQ4.

Why? Because the charger that is built into the generators we are talking about are inefficient. They only charge at about 8 amp hours. You'll have to run it for hours to recharge your batteries. The charger I recommended will use the full capacity of the 2000 generator without overcharging, charge your batteries very rapidly, and is smart charger so would be appropriate to leave on the batteries when plugged in at storage. I would install it in place of whatever maintainer came with the RV.

John- can you explain how you installed and use this charger? Would I mount it somewhere inside as close to the batteries as possible, and then run the AC cord to the generator just to charge the batteries faster?

[Off Road]

Just for clarification I did not use the battery charger that comes with my generator, I just plugged my RV power cord into the 110 outlet on the generator and let the RV converter charge it. There are better converters than what comes standard on my RV but I haven't felt it is worth the money to switch the factory one out.

[twinboat]

Before you buy a new charger, research the one you have. It may be a fine 3 stage charger.

With that, you simply plug your power cord into the generator, with an adaptor, and start it up.

When home, plug it in to the house and it will charge the batteries up, ready for the next trip.

Tell us the make and model and someone will know.

[Dooger54]

Originally Posted by twinboat

Before you buy a new charger, research the one you have. It may be a fine 3 stage charger.

With that, you simply plug your power cord into the generator, with an adaptor, and start it up.

When home, plug it in to the house and it will charge the batteries up, ready for the next trip.

Tell us the make and model and someone will know.

Mine is the WFCO WF-8955PEC.

[twinboat]

It's a good 3 stage 55 amp converter/charger.
It will do a fine job with your batteries.

Once you get your monitor you can monitor your batteries capacity.

Running them down to 50% will give you about 1000 cycles.

Running them down to 20% will give you 500 cycles, cutting the life in half for 30% more use.

If you have a generator or solar, you may be able to run them down to only 70%. That will increase there life beyond 1000 cycles. Trojan charts it all out.

Only you can choose which way works for you. With only two batteries and occasional boondocking, you may not even want a generator or solar. Just replace them when the capacity drops to an unusable level.

[RubiconTrail]

Good advice from Twinboat. I made the mistake of assuming from your post that you didn't have a multi-stage charger and wanted to prevent you from running the gen all day without seeing much benefit. The 55 amp multi-stage charger should work fine, and the EU-2000 should operate it at full capacity.

I think you are on your way to a better experience.

[nothermark]

FWIW Check the dimensions on the Trojans you are looking at. I think they are significantly taller and heavier than what you have now. It may be a lot easier to leave them in the truck.

[harryn]

Just some ideas for the future:
- Solar panels are not that expensive, but of course only work in the sunshine. For the price of a pair of batteries, you can buy a 165 watt panel and potentially not need the extra set of batteries. There is no need to do a permanent install, just setup them in the sun and run a wire back along with a controller.

I have a pair of these that I put where I want so they are in the sun. I taught my 4 year old grand daughter how to do this at Christmas time, so it isn't hard. Yes, I pre-stripped the wire ends, but she did everything else.

165 watt solar panel 165w off grid for battery charging

Two each size 24 LiFe batteries will hold 3 X the power of anything else you can put in the existing 2 position battery slide. That is a bit more exotic, I do it regularly but I suggest hiring it out if you have not done it.

Why not just buy a battery the size of your existing tray instead of those old fashion T105s in series? They aren't any better than the pair of 24s you have now.

[Drewd]

A small generator, I think is your best option. Samsclub was clearing out 4 stroke inverter generators (1000 watt) for $149 which is about the cost of a new battery.

I have solar on my 5th wheel and carry a cheap 2 stroke Harbor Freight generator which you can often get for $79 with a coupon. It is not worth paying more for it. It isn't terribly loud and is easy to use and being 2 stroke, doesn't need oil changes. Mine is over 5 years old and runs like new but looks rough. It rarely gets used and I often fire it up to run my air compressor instead of running a long extension cord to an outlet powered by my inverter. The only time i used it for my RV was to recharge my batteries faster when all 3 banks went dead because I ran the fridge on 120v ac power via my inverter. My tow vehicle wiring was too thin to provide sufficient power to the camper while under tow to power the fridge.

Solar isn't cheap and a generator is more flexible.

If I were in your shoes, I'd get a bigger inverter generator and have the flexiblity of running air conditioning when needed while boondocking.

Before solar, I started out with this generator 2,600 watt continuous 3000 watt surge generator-very portable, very quiet, and stores easily. http://www.ebay.com/itm/DIGITAL-3000...-/330950007468 We would run it first thing in morning to recharge batteries, make coffee, wife's hair dryer, waffle maker, etc...etc.. We'd run it about 3-4 hours to recharge the batteries. While this was sufficient to last the night, we'd often run it for about an hour around dinner time for other accessories needed to cook. This generator was very quiet and fuel efficient. We barely heard it when placed 25 feet away (length of 30 amp rv cord) as long as exhaust was facing away from camper (important). Easy to start and very little maintenance except oil change every 50-100 hours.

We then got a bigger RV and needed more power for our a/c. We switched to a Boliy 3600 generator with 3000 watts of continuous power. The Boliy is the lightest in its class which is why we bought it. A little larger but very quiet on eco mode and VERY reliable. About $1000 for electric start version. There were times we ran this generator in eco mode 12-15 hours a day while boondocking especially when it would rain 3-4 days straight and we were stuck in the camper. We camp at 10,000 to 12,000 feet in Colorado and use heat every night and sometimes in the daytime when storms roll thru and temps drop 40 deg F suddenly.

Another reason for a generator is to recharge your tow vehicle battery should it go dead for some reason. This has happened to us twice in the past 4 years. First time we left camper plugged into truck and the camper drew down the truck's battery; second time was when I let an interior light on and didn't realize it until it was time to leave a week later. Having a small generator allowed us to recharge the truck battery which is an important safety feature to have when miles away in the mountain backcountry.

Things can happen when boondocking and a backup source of electrical power such as generator can save your bacon.

[Drewd]

The problem with batteries is that going below 50% state of charge will shorten their lifespan a lot and may cost you more in the long run.

We discovered that our batteries were going down to 30% overnight from running the heat and watching TV movies before bedtime and wondered why our batteries only lasted one summer.

Boondock camping without any way to top of batteries is very hard on them. Solar is not an option for everyone due to cost, shaded camping spots, and other factors. A small portable 200 watt system that you can move around to face the sun is another good alternative but I'd worry about theft, even when boondock camping.

Honda generators are expensive. I can't tell you how many people I've run across while camping that bought a Boliy after they heard how quiet mine was at 1/2 to more of the cost of a equivalent Honda.

Please consider an alternative source of power, it may save your vacation if you have a battery short out and may save you in an emergency situation.

[ajohansson]

This is in response to a couple of posts.

I cant believe people say Lead acid batteries are old fashioned. I use lipo batteries in my kids RC cars and yeah they are great but for the dang cost its just not worth it especially if you have a travel trailer and the batteries are stored in an unconditioned space. Heat kills lipos. Heat also kills lead acid but what I spent on them is a fraction of the cost. Yes I can only go to 50% but I carry 4 of them, yes they weigh more but all things have their pros and cons. Bottom line is I need to see some long term lipo battery tests before I pull the trigger.

IMHO a portable solar system is the way to go. If someone steals your panels you arent out that much money. Its alot nicer to park in the shade if you can and put the panels in the sun.

Honda generators are expensive secure it with some of this chain or put it in some sort of enclusure and secure it with this chain https://www.1st-chainsupply.com/chai...y_maxx/FAQ.htm

my 5 cents worth...

AJ

[Hit_the_Rhod]

Originally Posted by ajohansson

Honda generators are expensive secure it with some of this chain or put it in some sort of enclusure and secure it with this chain https://www.1st-chainsupply.com/chai...y_maxx/FAQ.htmmy 5 cents worth...
AJ

The only problem is even on their website, they admit that anyone with a portable die grinder can cut even their chains . . .

Also, a lot of times Honda Generators are stolen by just cutting the plastic handle and slipping off the chain or cable . . . If you ever see a Honda generator for sale that has a cut handle, odds are pretty good that it was stolen at some point. . . .

You can buy the below item that makes it more difficult, it's easy to attach with just TWO fasteners . . . but just as easily DETACHED with those same two fasteners.

Honda EU2000i Generator Theft Deterrent Handle-63230-Z07-010AH - The Home Depot

Another option is a cable that incorporates a wire filament attached to a horn or other alarm that sounds when the wire is cut.

Personally, I like the one a friend of mine made that lets out a terrible wail when it is moved or tilted! To disable, you turn a key. Hint: Do this before refueling, or it will get LOUD! The beauty of this one is that if the thief runs off with you generator, he is easy to track since the noise goes with him!

[RubiconTrail]

Originally Posted by nothermark

FWIW Check the dimensions on the Trojans you are looking at. I think they are significantly taller and heavier than what you have now. It may be a lot easier to leave them in the truck.

This is a possibility. If this is the case and you want to use your existing mounting plan, I suggest going to a pair of 12 volt Discovers or Lifelines. They will provide the durability, are AGM's so no maintenance, and will have good use stats (amp-hours). I have an off grid cabin using 12v Lifelines that work very well.

Originally Posted by ajohansson

I cant believe people say Lead acid batteries are old fashioned. I use lipo batteries in my kids RC cars and yeah they are great but for the dang cost its just not worth it...AJ

Not suggesting lead-acid are old fashioned, or that LiPo is the way to go. The batteries most are suggesting here are Lead Acid, but they are AGM (Applied Glass Mat). No venting, no spilling, no maintenance...yes, more expensive.

Originally Posted by Drewd

Honda generators are expensive. I can't tell you how many people I've run across while camping that bought a Boliy after they heard how quiet mine was at 1/2 to more of the cost of a equivalent Honda.

I agree with you, Honda and Yamaha generators ARE more expensive than Chinese eBay generators. I actually think the Boliy generators are pretty good when in use. The problem with them is parts availability and knowledge base. For most people, I would recommend not getting them because parts are impossible to get and no one knows how to work on them. Hondas and Yamahas can be worked on by an authorized shop or two in almost any town.

Not a fan of Champions. Repair problems and they are LOUD.

All my opinion, nothing more.

[jackfish]

The WFCO WF-8955PEC converter will consistently undercharge Trojan T-105 batteries which want 14.8 volts during bulk charging and 13.5 in float.

https://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/...ging-puzzle-2/