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smittysrv · 04-14-2018, 04:47 AM

I have a 31 ft 2005 Coachmen Santara (Class C). I want to add 4 6-volt AGM batteries to my RV for boondocking. All of the lower deck door openings have flimsy fiberglass interiors. Not strong enough for heavy batteries. I saw a video where someone put his batteries under the bed in the aft master bedroom. That seems a little spooky to me? The only other place I can think of, is the rear storage area that is 3 foot square and 8 foot deep. That's a lot of weight to go in the rig so far aft. Opinions welcome!

jfguay2 · 04-14-2018, 05:34 AM

I am trying to figure out the same for my 2009 Jayco Greyhawk 31 FS. I am thinking of replacing the current battery tray with a larger custom built box that will also attach to the underside and the side, allowing access through the battery door.

I am still debating over which material to built the box. Steel is heavier than thick aluminum but stronger , and will rust. Stainless still for the frame is an option but it is very expensive. In most cases, the design would simply call for using angle (iron, aluminum or stainless) to build the frame, and then use heavy gauge aluminum sheets to finish the sides and bottom.

I would then either get it powder coated , or sprayed with something like rock guard...

Keep me posted about your own ideas...

CyrusL · 04-15-2018, 10:42 AM

I'm very interested in this too. I was thinking about having the bay next to the entry door reinforced somehow to handle the weight of the batteries. The nice thing about that is that it's very close to the existing batteries so I'd just be adding additional batteries to the existing system instead of relocating. With that, I could go from about 220ah to about 550ah!

Has anyone had any luck with reinforcing the fiberglass storage bays to handle the weight of batteries?

Thanks
Cyrus

smittysrv · 04-18-2018, 09:00 AM

Hey guys. Found this. Looks like he has the same fiberglass compartment that I have in all my storage areas. He added a piece of angle iron to the underside as reinforcement. I think this will the resolution to my problem:

Go to 1:35 in the video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WyRy7kAyTHE

okmunky · 04-18-2018, 09:31 AM

Have you compared the cost of AGM batteries to the cost of redoing your battery compartment? They can be added indoors with just a small vent. They don’t outgas like lead acids do. I've seen them under one of the dinette seats.

smittysrv · 04-19-2018, 05:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by okmunky

Have you compared the cost of AGM batteries to the cost of redoing your battery compartment? They can be added indoors with just a small vent. They don’t outgas like lead acids do. I've seen them under one of the dinette seats.

Interesting idea!

harryn · 04-24-2018, 11:22 AM

Not sure what is optimum, but I have seen DIY battery trays that hang down from the frame work / floor area.

The fiberglass bins are far too weak to load up with batteries and a piece of angle iron.

The main challenge is that there is vibration, not just a static load.

astrocamper · 04-24-2018, 03:37 PM

Put in 300 Amp-hours of 30 pound LiFEPO4 batteries instead. 300 usable amp hours instead of 225 amp-hours using for T-105 style batteries.

battlebornbatteries.com

CyrusL · 04-26-2018, 08:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by astrocamper

Put in 300 Amp-hours of 30 pound LiFEPO4 batteries instead. 300 usable amp hours instead of 225 amp-hours using for T-105 style batteries.

battlebornbatteries.com

Ok, these batteries look amazing. I especially like that they're pretty much drop-in replacements for flooded. This may solve multiple problems for me (and cause one financial one).