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-   -   Converting to 30 Amp (http://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/converting-to-30-amp-111712.html)

donandmax 01-01-2012 03:52 PM

Converting to 30 Amp
 
If I use a 30 amp circuit breaker (at the box) and correct gauge wire is this all I need to make a 30 amp connection to run my a/c at my garage (rv of course) ? Also what guage wire do I use.. Right now its 20 Amp. I just want to convert to 30 amp....

jlyon69 01-01-2012 04:25 PM

If you have a short run, say 15-20ft, I would use 10/2. If it was 50-100ft, I would use 8/2.

justaroamer 01-01-2012 04:26 PM

10 Ga. should be just fine if you stay under total length 120' to load.
If you want more info. Wire Capacity Chart

donandmax 01-01-2012 06:09 PM

10-2 it is
thanks

wa8yxm 01-01-2012 06:36 PM

Rather than "Change" I would simply add a 30 amp breaker, a TT-30 outlet and hook 'em up I see wire guage is already covered.

NOTE: If you are doing it yourself, from the sounds of it you will very likely do it right.

If you are having it done by a professional... I suggest doing a 50 amp.. Several reasons

1: The cost of upgrading later, should you wish to do so is now zero (the additional cost of the heavier wiere, pigtail and outlet are way less than haveing the pro come bac out to change it)

second,,, Where as I have read thread after thread where some pro put in a 30 amp outelt and did it wrong, frying the RV's electroincs.. Not one such thrad where a 50 was done wrong... though I do admit it's possible, not likely. Epically at a house.

ronspradley 01-01-2012 09:04 PM

You can still wire a 50 amp wrong if you put L1 and L2 on the same phase instead of split phase. Then when you measure voltage between L1 and L2 you get zero, instead of 240 volts like you should. Hope this helps.

ronspradley

Wizard 01-02-2012 07:22 AM

Be sure to make that 10-2 with ground.

Your dogbone connector will take care of the phasing as you won't have 220 volt anyway, same 30 amp leg will feed both 50 amp circuits with a max 30 amp on all circuits.

Tha_Rooster 01-02-2012 08:17 AM

10/2withground 30amp single pole breaker (110 volt 1 hot,1neutral,1 ground).

wa8yxm 01-02-2012 08:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ronspradley (Post 1047191)
You can still wire a 50 amp wrong if you put L1 and L2 on the same phase instead of split phase. Then when you measure voltage between L1 and L2 you get zero, instead of 240 volts like you should. Hope this helps.

ronspradley


This is true, however outside of a cheapskate park I've never heard of a professional electrician doing this. Even if it were done it would not fry the RV's electronics,, All it would do is "Fool" the EMS into thinking it's a 30 amp outlet if you have an EMS.

Where as putting 24 volts on a tt-30 outlet.. Gets real expensive real fast.

That said it sounds like the O/P is planing on doing the work himeself.. Same as I would .. and it looks like he's planing on doing it right as well.

Paul R. Haller 01-02-2012 04:48 PM

Man, If I were going to all the trouble of putting in new breakers, wiring, conduit, etc, I would certainly put in a 50 amp 2 phase instead of a 30 amp single phase. It's the same amount of work and you get 3 times the power. Even if you never use it with your current RV, if you ever upgrade to a 50 amp coach, the power is there. Just pull 6/3 with a ground and a different plug and breaker... all the other stuff is the same as long as you have space in your main panel. It's just the added cost of the larger wire and you'll have more then enough amps to run anything you need. I'm just saying that for all the labor involved, go BIG! There is no substitute for more power except to do it over.
-Paul R. Haller-

justaroamer 01-02-2012 05:01 PM

Paul has it...right on...say you want to upgrade coaches. At my age I hate do-overs, but a few them would not be to too bad, now that I think about it.

donandmax 01-02-2012 05:36 PM

30 amp
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by wa8yxm (Post 1047049)
Rather than "Change" I would simply add a 30 amp breaker, a TT-30 outlet and hook 'em up I see wire guage is already covered.

NOTE: If you are doing it yourself, from the sounds of it you will very likely do it right.

If you are having it done by a professional... I suggest doing a 50 amp.. Several reasons

1: The cost of upgrading later, should you wish to do so is now zero (the additional cost of the heavier wiere, pigtail and outlet are way less than haveing the pro come bac out to change it)

second,,, Where as I have read thread after thread where some pro put in a 30 amp outelt and did it wrong, frying the RV's electroincs.. Not one such thrad where a 50 was done wrong... though I do admit it's possible, not likely. Epically at a house.

I put in a 30amp breaker a couple of years ago but noticed the the electric plug (shore power) was getting warm when I turned the a/c on thought maybe the wire from main box to outlet I installed was'nt heavy enough

RustyJC 01-02-2012 07:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wa8yxm (Post 1047430)
Even if it were done it would not fry the RV's electronics,, All it would do is "Fool" the EMS into thinking it's a 30 amp outlet if you have an EMS.

The other thing (and the most important reason NOT to wire L1 and L2 on the same phase) is that it would make the neutral current additive instead of subtractive between the two legs. Granted, if just being used for storage, this might not be as big of a deal, but under heavy usage the neutral conductor could be severely overloaded, resulting in a potential fire hazard.

A properly-wired 50 amp RV service outlet should ALWAYS measure 240VAC between L1 and L2.

Rusty

bluepill 01-02-2012 07:23 PM

Re: 30 A. Vs 50 A. Just remember that CONTINUOUS ampacity of any AC circuit is only 80% of maximum. That means 24 AMPS for a 30 A circuit.

When I run both of my A/C units, it pulls 24 amps. Even at that load the 50A to 30A converter adaptor pigtail gets quite warm.


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