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-   -   B300 360 engine motorhome (http://www.irv2.com/forums/f87/b300-360-engine-motorhome-123690.html)

Catbones 05-13-2012 11:37 AM

B300 360 engine motorhome
 
Hi,

I thought I'd ask around for some ideas before going on a crazy marathon of replacing things.

Yesterday we went for little camping and 10 minutes into the drive the rig stalled on a red light. I had another vehicle to give it a boost and started driving. Another red light it stalled, another boost.

Now stopping at the rv camp ground, to register and being in part not a problem. As soon as I popped it into drive, it died, needed a boost.

This morning, trying to start it. Didn't seem it wanted to click. I heard the started, but then it died, then turning the key, nothing not even the tick sound from the started.

So it could be the started but then why does it die on idle or simply going from park to drive. It could be the batter, it could be the alternator, it could be the started.

Anyone with more experience around this field can suggest where I start with test? I can tell you also that about a week ago, while doing a clean up in the rig, I had the radio on and in about half hour it turned off. I thought ohhhh battery died, but then, the radio came on and off, on and off, on and off... Strange.

Any ideas seriously where I can start with what test would be appreciate it. Thank you in advance.

Btw; it's a 1978 Winnie Sportsman 360 engine.... Kids loved it, first time camping

Mekanic 05-13-2012 04:20 PM

First thing I'd look at would be the battry connections.
Then battery age.....

Davinger 05-14-2012 06:58 AM

Agreed that the battery connections may be dirty. There is a miracle battery cleaner that you can get almost anywhere. It is called Coke-a-cola. Pour half a can on each battery terminal. Check to make sure that the battery is connected securely and on the negative side make sure that it is also tight. If the battery cables have excessive rust you may want to grab a set.

Stalling at a light may suggest that your alternator may not be charging and if a simple jump start gets you going you may need a new one. If you are mechanically savvy the removal isn't a major project you can take it to your local auto parts store and have it tested for free in most cases. If it is bad they should have it in stock. Most auto parts stores have a device that test them but they generally need it to be taken off. If you aren't you can take it to them and they may be able to test it while it is running.

The battery if it is bad enough can cause you to stall and not start. If the battery is new and the alternator is good you may have a draw on the battery while the RV is not running. There are a number of other reasons but lets try the easy and cheap fix first.

Catbones 05-14-2012 01:11 PM

Thank you for all the suggestions. I run a meter on the battery and noticed a 10.5 which I believe shout be a 12.8, right? The alternator gives a jumping 12.5 I'm guessing that's ok? The battery with vehicle not running should be at 12.8 minimum, well on a car. In my truck when it's off it's a 12.8 but running its 14.2. Should running the battery be at 14.2?

Correct me if I'm wrong.

Davinger 05-15-2012 10:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Catbones (Post 1176682)
Thank you for all the suggestions. I run a meter on the battery and noticed a 10.5 which I believe shout be a 12.8, right? The alternator gives a jumping 12.5 I'm guessing that's ok? The battery with vehicle not running should be at 12.8 minimum, well on a car. In my truck when it's off it's a 12.8 but running its 14.2. Should running the battery be at 14.2?

Correct me if I'm wrong.

Yup I would say a new battery is in order...

RRR 05-15-2012 04:57 PM

The alternator output should be at 13.8 Or slightly higher. And after sitting for 20 minutes or so the battery should drop to the 12.6 volt range. A good check of the chassis electrail system is in order.


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