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-   -   Dometic nda 1402 refrigerator removal (http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/dometic-nda-1402-refrigerator-removal-174571.html)

Lloydu 08-29-2013 09:25 PM

Dometic nda 1402 refrigerator removal
 
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Need help! I have a Samsung RF197 ready to install but I'm having trouble removing the old Dometic NDA 1402, starting with door removal. Can someone please share some tips on how to dismantle and remove my old reefer from the enclosure? This project is starting to look harder than I had hoped.
Thanks in advance.



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Mr_D 08-29-2013 09:30 PM

Hey, are you starting on it already? Thought I'd get a call from you. Unfortunately we're headed out to Silver Cove in the morning and won't be back till Sunday. I know you'd like to get it done before heading to the beach too.
When I took our Dometic out I had to hunt around for screws that were holding it in. Some in back, some through the molding that were only accessible when the doors were removed and a couple that only showed when I removed the control panel.
Hopefully someone will have the same unit and can give you some ideas. If you wait till we're both back in town I can give you a hand.
Deen

Lloydu 08-29-2013 09:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr_D (Post 1706563)
Hey, are you starting on it already? Thought I'd get a call from you. Unfortunately we're headed out to Silver Cove in the morning and won't be back till Sunday. I know you'd like to get it done before heading to the beach too.
When I took our Dometic out I had to hunt around for screws that were holding it in. Some in back, some through the molding that were only accessible when the doors were removed and a couple that only showed when I removed the control panel.
Hopefully someone will have the same unit and can give you some ideas. If you wait till we're both back in town I can give you a hand.
Deen

Deen
We got in at midnight last night and I moved the rig from storage to a friend's house in Ridgefield, WA this afternoon. I was anxious to start into this project but I already got stymied by my first task....that being the removal of the doors. We will go to Rockaway Beach (no RV) with friends Sunday until Tuesday. I would welcome your help anytime after Tuesday. Please call when you have a chance.
Aloha
L

kketterling 08-30-2013 09:10 AM

By chance is your coach a Beaver Contessa? Picture looks exactly like my unit. If it is I will be very interested in your removal and install as I plan to remove my Dometic and replace with Samsung. Do you have a drawer below the existing fridge now and are you planning to remove that drawer to fit the Samsung in the current location?

William Willard 08-30-2013 11:10 AM

With the doors open, there are 2 screws in the top, & 2 in the bottom -- These screws don`t go into the face of the style, but the edge -- There are no screws in the trim pieces -- Outside, there will be screws in the bottom of the frig -- No telling how many, that just depends who was working that day -- On the icemaker relay, there will be 2 waterlines -- One of those lines is for the water thru the door -- Go head & disconnect both - Now that the screws are removed, you should be able to push the frig out -- Go out at least 6 inches, & then you can see the screws on the side that holds the doors on -- The doors weigh about 35#`s , so be careful -- When you take the left hand door off, you can just pull the water line thru the cabinet, providing you disconnected it in the back -- Don`t do any cuttingor damage to the refer when you take it out -- I sold mine on Craigs List for $1050.00 -- Bill Willard

Lloydu 08-31-2013 12:07 AM

Kkettering,
I have a 2007 42' Monaco Camelot. I believe Beaver became part of the Monaco family so it may be why the fridge enclosures look similar. I had a drawer under the fridge which I destroyed today because I plan to place the Samsung RF197 on the floor.

Lloydu 08-31-2013 12:36 AM

4 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by William Willard (Post 1707141)
With the doors open, there are 2 screws in the top, & 2 in the bottom -- These screws don`t go into the face of the style, but the edge -- There are no screws in the trim pieces -- Outside, there will be screws in the bottom of the frig -- No telling how many, that just depends who was working that day -- On the icemaker relay, there will be 2 waterlines -- One of those lines is for the water thru the door -- Go head & disconnect both - Now that the screws are removed, you should be able to push the frig out -- Go out at least 6 inches, & then you can see the screws on the side that holds the doors on -- The doors weigh about 35#`s , so be careful -- When you take the left hand door off, you can just pull the water line thru the cabinet, providing you disconnected it in the back -- Don`t do any cuttingor damage to the refer when you take it out -- I sold mine on Craigs List for $1050.00 -- Bill Willard

Bill,
I appreciate your response. Unfortunately I read your post after fumbling through the removal this morning. I do have additional questions forever:
1. What is the best way to cap the propane line?
2. Do you think I should insulate the enclosure? If so, all 3 walls?
3. How much breathing space do I need at the top?
4. Not sure what the style is but if it the black frame that goes around the front and holds the control panel, I would like to know how to remove it without destroying the fridge. Trying desperately to remove it so we can exit through the front door.
5. If we need to exit out the DS window, what caulk do you recommend?
6. Does the Samsung need a drain line?
7. Best way to anchor the unit?

Thanks in advance!

Here is where I am right now:

bgbranch 08-31-2013 06:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lloydu (Post 1707829)
Kkettering,
I have a 2007 42' Monaco Camelot. I believe Beaver became part of the Monaco family so it may be why the fridge enclosures look similar. I had a drawer under the fridge which I destroyed today because I plan to place the Samsung RF197 on the floor.


I too have a 2007 42 Camelot. I ordered my RF197 a week ago and it is in shipment now.
Please keep posting pictures, etc throughout your install as I will be doing the same shortly.

kketterling 08-31-2013 09:28 AM

Lloydu: Keep the pictures coming. Your install will be almost identical to mine as I have the drawer under the current fridge and plan to remove it to install the Samsung.

William Willard 08-31-2013 01:41 PM

2 Attachment(s)
I caped the gas line with a flare plug that you should find at Ace Hardware -- I insulated the left side & back walls with 3/4 inch foam board that I got at Lowe`s -- Our coach is Black on the outside & needed all the help that I could add -- The style is the top & bottom board of the wood cabinet -- I left the bottom style in, & built the floor up , so it was flush with the top of the style -- That left enough room at the top of the frig for venting -- I used the drawer that I removed, & made a shelf, so that I could use lag bolts to anchor the front of the frig -- I removed the leveling feet in front, & put the lags thru there -- Bill Willard

Lloydu 09-04-2013 03:09 AM

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Sorry for the break in my progress. We spent the Labor Day weekend at the coast.
We have pretty much cleaned up the enclosure, capped the gas line (see pic for the size), and added a lighted switch (picked this idea up from another post) to allow me to slow the drain on my batteries (via inverter) when there is no shore/gen power. I figure the fridge can stay cold many hours if we don't open the door too much. This way I can still have the inverter on for other low amp accessories. I plan to try just going with my present 4 6V battery system for now.

Lloydu 09-04-2013 03:21 AM

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More pics:

Lloydu 09-04-2013 03:28 AM

1 Attachment(s)
We didn't have a square security bit on a screw driver handle that was narrow enough to access the screws I used a reciprocating saw to cut through the screws and glued style.
This forum doesn't seem to allow me to upload multiple pictures very easily.
More to follow as I try to complete this project.

nodine 09-04-2013 03:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lloydu (Post 1713344)
We didn't have a square security bit on a screw driver handle that was narrow enough to access the screws I used a reciprocating saw to cut through the screws and glued style.
This forum doesn't seem to allow me to upload multiple pictures very easily.
More to follow as I try to complete this project.

Loyd,

They are called Robertson square drives and can be purchased almost anywhere that sells tools. Your coach is full of them and you need to get a set of bits. You can use them in a drill or screwdriver that accepts bits.
Qty 1 - Robertson Bit No. 2 Square Drive

Interesting story is that Robertson, a Canadian, invented this type screw and introduced it to Henry Ford. Ford liked it and wanted to use it to manufactrue cars but he wanted exclusive rights. Robertson was not willing to give Ford exclusive use so Ford used the Phillips screw instead. Moral of the story is that we all got screwed because the square dirive is much better.

Bob


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