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-   -   Voltage issues 2014 Vista 30T (http://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/voltage-issues-2014-vista-30t-301316.html)

Peter27C 07-25-2016 08:55 PM

Voltage issues 2014 Vista 30T
 
Last few days I have had trouble starting the engine in my RV. I have had to use the booster switch. Assumed the batteries were dying, but tested fine with a load tester.
I suspect a faulty solinoid that has something to do with connecting/ disconnecting the batteries is faulty.
Also the generator starts then stops when I release the rocker start switch. Then will immediately start when I push the rocker switch again, and stop when I release it. Sometimes it would continue to run if I kept the booster switch pushed.
I immediately suspected the batteries but have tested them several times.

I do suspect something simple but can not put my finger on it.

Looking forward to some expert advice!

Pete

RV Wizard 07-26-2016 03:36 AM

When electrical things do not function properly, you should check the battery voltage at that point. If the voltage source is good, then you have a bad circuit. Check for a bad ground if this is the case. If not then you will need to find the cause of the current flow. Good luck and keep us posted.

Peter27C 07-26-2016 04:56 AM

Thanks. I do not see the problem as an earth problem as I get power to the dash with the booster switch engaged. Also the steps don't work until the engine is running with the booster switch engaged.
There must be a relay / solinoid that is normally closed but in my case is opening, killing voltage to the chassis side. I hold the booster switch in, get the engine running, then perhaps everything is running on the alternator power. BUT I still have good voltage in the start battery.

Last night I disconnected the house batteries and the engine started one time on the key so the chassis battery had to be connected, but then would not start again until I reconnected the house batteries and used the booster switch. I shut down the engine, disconnected and tested the chassis battery and it is still fully charged and fine.

Can anyone produce a schematic on the wiring?

Pete

68SILVER 07-26-2016 05:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Peter27C (Post 3179202)
Thanks. I do not see the problem as an earth problem as I get power to the dash with the booster switch engaged. Also the steps don't work until the engine is running with the booster switch engaged.
There must be a relay / solinoid that is normally closed but in my case is opening, killing voltage to the chassis side. I hold the booster switch in, get the engine running, then perhaps everything is running on the alternator power. BUT I still have good voltage in the start battery.

Last night I disconnected the house batteries and the engine started one time on the key so the chassis battery had to be connected, but then would not start again until I reconnected the house batteries and used the booster switch. I shut down the engine, disconnected and tested the chassis battery and it is still fully charged and fine.

Can anyone produce a schematic on the wiring?

Pete

You can find your schematics on Winnabegos home page

emcee 07-27-2016 05:49 AM

It does sound like a bad ground on the chassis side. I would start by removing, cleaning and reinstalling the ground connection at the starting battery. Then move on to the other ground connections if that doesn't do it.

When you engage the booster switch, maybe the chassis circuit is finding the ground on the house circuit? That is why you then get power to the dashboard, stairs and generator. When you release it - bad ground.

Kiawah 07-27-2016 07:30 AM

When you measure your voltage with a voltmeter on your chassis batteries, do it first with the voltmeter leads on the battery posts, then do it again with the positive lead on the battery post and the negative lead on the metal frame of the coach. See if there is any difference, and also try it with a current load, such as maybe the headlights drawing current.

If you have a difference in voltage between those two measurements, then your battery ground has a resistance somewhere. Could be loose, could be corrosion inside the wire sheathing, could be some rust buildup where it attaches to the frame, etc.


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