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-   -   Quality of roof top air conditioners (http://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/quality-of-roof-top-air-conditioners-449825.html)

Tajfish 06-25-2019 09:41 PM

Quality of roof top air conditioners
 
Was not sure where to post this as it crosses over to all rvís. I have gone threw eight ac units in the last six years. Now before we say it is me or my Bounder dp, half of them were on my 246rks travel trailer. In the late 80ís and 90ís I had a Pace Arrow and the ac unit worked great. Then I bought a 2003 Discovery dp and had to replace the capacitor on both of them, installed hard start kits on both and back in the cool.
In 2013 bought a 28í travel trailer and put the forth new unit on it in early 2017 when I sold it. Bought a 2007 Bounder dp with two new heatpump ac units (1-1/2 year old). They both failed within a week of each other and because I was not the original purchaser the warranty was no good. That was one year ago and now both my one year old ac units have failed with in a week of each other.
I understand having to repair the ones on the Discovery but eight units failed on two different rvís in 6 years.
Where is the quality control anymore? Are others having this problem. Dometic is suppose to be top rated ??
Yes I guess this is a rant, but why with all this technology we can not duplicate what we had decades ago. The old units would last beyond the rv itself. Arrrgh

arcaguy 06-25-2019 09:57 PM

The first thing that comes to mind is the power source. Do you have an EMS? Are you at the same park all of the time. It sounds to me like the issue may not be with the A/C units but an under voltage situation. Just something to check out.

Tajfish 06-25-2019 10:08 PM

Yes, ems is working correctly. This is over six years, two different rvís and I travel all over the country. I was in aviation electronics and commercial HVAC all my working years so I check camp electric where ever we go. The only common denominator is the brand ??

mike brez 06-25-2019 10:10 PM

Great I got two 15k penguins with heat pumps comming tomorrow.

Tajfish 06-25-2019 10:16 PM

I forgot to mention that on most of these it is not the electrical but the coolant that is failing. The last two for example are running the fan but front unit is putting out ď0Ē cooling and rear unit is putting out less than 80% cooling so both are being replaced under warranty. This is what happened on the travel trailer, coolant issues.

brandss 06-25-2019 10:19 PM

I don't discard what you are saying but in my mind, it doesn't make sense. Thats a lot of money for replacement units.

daveandcarol 06-25-2019 10:38 PM

Not sure if I should be proud or nervous. Coach is 20 years old, both AC's original (as far as I can tell) and both still working. One is marked Coleman and other is from company that Coleman bought (can't remember name, was some initials I think). Or, as tajfish said, quality was better then...

Tajfish 06-26-2019 12:11 AM

The repairs on my Discovery I did myself. With the travel trailer the 4 units where all covered by original warranty ( none of them lasted over a year). The two heat pump units where installed just before I bought the Bounder, so I did pay indirectly, but Dometic would not cover them because I was not original purchaser. I did pay $1800.00 to have those two replaced. That was just a year ago and they are being warrantied. I did buy the extended warranty just in case. It is about the $$$ but also a major interruption in travel plans every time we lose ac as we live in Oklahoma and travel in the West and South West a lot . Just wondered if others are experiencing the same failure rate?

Bamaman 06-26-2019 12:18 AM

You are officially Snakebit.

Dutch Star Don 06-26-2019 03:32 AM

Dometic has had issues with their units for many years. When I bought my 2014 Dutch Star, there was a second one on the lot that another forum member purchased. Both Dometic units on that coach were bad from day one. In 2014, they had a rash of poorly soldered circuit boards. They just DON'T build a quality unit. My new 2019 Dutch Star showed up at the dealer with a bad Dometic unit, the heat pump didn't work.

The problem.....there is really no competition in the RV A/C market, so Dometic just limps along making crap A/C units and finds it cheaper to replace those under warranty, that are bad, than to actually make a better product, as they will provide ZERO help outside the warranty. It's a shame that a company does business this way.

Sweetbriar 06-26-2019 05:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bamaman (Post 4836837)
You are officially Snakebit.

Or King Midas syndrome. Both my A/Cs are over ten years old and performing well. One is a 2005 Colman (original equipment) and the other is a possibly a 2008 Carrier (prior owner install).

Magredvet 06-26-2019 05:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by
[I
The problem.....there is really no competition in the RV A/C market, so Dometic just limps along making crap A/C units and finds it cheaper to replace those under warranty, that are bad, than to actually make a better product, as they will provide ZERO help outside the warranty. It's a shame that a company does business this way[/I].

+1.................then there is that whole "China " thing....:D
Having replaced two out of three of my original Dometics in 3 years, I am resigned to the fact that I will be shelling out for another one soon.
Trouble is you can't replace a Penguin II with anything else, unless you change the plenum, which is more work than I care to undertake.
I also have a Dometic outside cooler, which is two years old, already the digital readout is gone, and I'm sure it's reaching the end of it's life, now that the warranty is up. :rolleyes:

bruceisla 06-26-2019 06:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Magredvet (Post 4836909)
+1.................then there is that whole "China " thing....:D
Having replaced two out of three of my original Dometics in 3 years, I am resigned to the fact that I will be shelling out for another one soon.
Trouble is you can't replace a Penguin II with anything else, unless you change the plenum, which is more work than I care to undertake.
I also have a Dometic outside cooler, which is two years old, already the digital readout is gone, and I'm sure it's reaching the end of it's life, now that the warranty is up. :rolleyes:


This is most likely true ... curious as to which plenum is currently installed at Newmar factory (new plenum was available last year) ....

veraken 06-26-2019 07:15 AM

With the cost, and problems (especially the reversing valve), I would just buy a Penguin A/C without heat pump and just use my furnace when needed?

Gary RVRoamer 06-26-2019 10:14 AM

Either you have really bad juju or something is seriously wrong with the 120v power where you use the RV. In 20+ years of extensive Rving, 150-190 nights per year in hot climates, I've never had to replace an a/c and have only had two repairs (a circuit board in one and a capacitor in another).

doc 06-26-2019 12:17 PM

I'm with Gary. Even a 'poor quality' brand/make should do better than that. Maybe the key is the heat pump? Just guessing

Tajfish 06-26-2019 03:08 PM

Failure 5 and 6 were heat pumps, the other 6 just ac units. Last ac units were Brisk ll air which are rated high. My electrical has been checked on many occasions because of so many failures. All four service centers (Dometic approved) have called the fault on the units and not the rv or service I was using at the time. Like some of you I had great service in the 80ís and 90ís with the unit on my Pace Arrow. Not so on several rvís since 2013

TXiceman 06-26-2019 03:46 PM

Dometic units have been having lots of problems for the past few years...leaks, burned out compressors, etc.

Ken

Milford 47 06-26-2019 03:59 PM

Are the failures all mechanical, with no corrosion or other factors? Like others in 50 plus years of camping and the last 40 with AC never a failure so hope that trend continues. The last several have been heat pumps as well and the earlier had heat strips.

vito.a 06-26-2019 04:27 PM

Older Dometic A/C units were usually good for 10+ years. At some point Dometic moved A/C production overseas and reliability suffered. 2014 to 2016 were some of the worst years. Let's hope they get control over it.

They have also changed the design. Older units had a lot more steel and aluminum and new units have more plastic. The earlier design heat pumps defaulted to heat mode and new units default to cool mode. They have also changed refrigerant version from R-12 to a newer ECO friendly R-410a. Probably lots more.

airshot 06-26-2019 07:04 PM

Ok.... you folks are getting me worried, my 1994 Allegro gas MH still has the original Dometic A/C unit. Been waiting for it to go out one of these days, guess I wont complain if I have to replace it. Glad things were simplier back then!

TXiceman 06-26-2019 07:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by airshot (Post 4837987)
Ok.... you folks are getting me worried, my 1994 Allegro gas MH still has the original Dometic A/C unit. Been waiting for it to go out one of these days, guess I wont complain if I have to replace it. Glad things were simplier back then!

The older Dometic unit lasted a LONG time. DOn't worry until it stops.

Ken

chuckftboy 06-26-2019 08:36 PM

Like everything else quality has gone straight down the toilet. The copper tubing is thinner, he capacitors are made with extremely thin foil and are no longer oil filled, the relays and circuit boards have no silver content and motors and compressors are no longer wound with pure copper wire. Welcome to the 21st century!!!
I purchased a new rig in February and they replaced my center heat pump 4 wees ago.

Tajfish 06-26-2019 08:36 PM

Older units were great. As far as corrosion etc these 8 units failed in the last 6 years. Most did not last a year. And my coach is stored during the winter months.

Tajfish 07-08-2019 04:43 PM

New units are suppose to be here within the hour. :)

MSHappyCampers 07-08-2019 05:54 PM

That's the reason I bought the 5-year Dometic warranty on both new heat pumps! :thumb::D

Tajfish 07-08-2019 07:03 PM

That the saving grace on these. They are under warranty and will be for 5 years. They were just installed a year ago. The guys are finishing up so are trip is saved. Just wish these units were built better.

CampDaven 07-08-2019 07:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tajfish (Post 4855629)
That the saving grace on these. They are under warranty and will be for 5 years. They were just installed a year ago. The guys are finishing up so are trip is saved. Just wish these units were built better.



Built better? Well, they were!
I have a 10 year old MH with 3 Dometic A/Cs.
One died at age 8, and the other 2 are going strong.
Iím only guessing, but this rig has been busy for all 10 years, which means using them often and hard is good!

dwhit 07-08-2019 07:48 PM

Our 2014 5th wheel is on its fourth Dometic 15K Brisk Air II...they fail at the welding points on the condenser.

leadman 07-09-2019 08:23 PM

I recently replaced a Coleman Mach Power Saver on my 199 Winnie. It was a 1999 unit.
I also have been interested in running a/c off batteries so have watched several videos on this. What I noticed about the new Dometic units is the very high amp draw when starting. Most were around 80 amps or so. More than double what my Coleman Power Savers draw. It is hard to find locked rotor amp draw on a Dometic, not so with a Coleman.

If it were I would not buy a Dometic if at all possible.

bruceisla 07-10-2019 06:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leadman (Post 4857264)
I recently replaced a Coleman Mach Power Saver on my 199 Winnie. It was a 1999 unit.
I also have been interested in running a/c off batteries so have watched several videos on this. What I noticed about the new Dometic units is the very high amp draw when starting. Most were around 80 amps or so. More than double what my Coleman Power Savers draw. It is hard to find locked rotor amp draw on a Dometic, not so with a Coleman.

If it were I would not buy a Dometic if at all possible.


No idea where you got that number but Dometic 15k units have a compressor startup draw of about 13 amps and a fan startup of about 3 amps.

Dark Sky 07-10-2019 06:36 AM

Well this thread is disappointing. We got back from some museums in DC last night to a very warm bus. The front room unit is blowing warm. I've checked all fuses and confirmed good power to both sides of the rig, and to the thermostat. I'm waiting for a call back from a mobile repair company this morning.
My ac's are Dometic. If it comes to a replacement I guess I should ask if they have any 15 year old ones available.......

bruceisla 07-10-2019 07:34 AM

The average life span of an A/C unit (RVs and homes) is 9 years ... some more and some less depending on climate and use. Most require some repair during that period (caps, fan motors, etc.)

leadman 07-11-2019 06:48 AM

bruceisla, got that figure from watching the guy from Soft Start with a specially designed meter to capture the starting load figures for The Wynns on YouTube. A normal digital meter is too slow to capture the total draw.
I use and old analog meter and it reads the correct draw. Even my Power Saver Coleman draws around 35 to 40 amps. Don't have the figures in front of me. they are 2K miles away right now.
Just looked at the Dometic site and the 13,500 btu Brisk Air II draws 1670w running. This is about 14 amps. My 13,500 btu Coleman draws 7 amps running.

Mudfrog 07-11-2019 08:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don (Post 4836881)
Dometic has had issues with their units for many years. When I bought my 2014 Dutch Star, there was a second one on the lot that another forum member purchased. Both Dometic units on that coach were bad from day one. In 2014, they had a rash of poorly soldered circuit boards. They just DON'T build a quality unit. My new 2019 Dutch Star showed up at the dealer with a bad Dometic unit, the heat pump didn't work.

The problem.....there is really no competition in the RV A/C market, so Dometic just limps along making crap A/C units and finds it cheaper to replace those under warranty, that are bad, than to actually make a better product, as they will provide ZERO help outside the warranty. It's a shame that a company does business this way.

My Dad n Law's 2015 trailer is on its 3rd Dometic rooftop unit. The serviceman at the RV dealership he bought from told him the problem was keeping them busy.

bruceisla 07-11-2019 12:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leadman (Post 4859040)
bruceisla, got that figure from watching the guy from Soft Start with a specially designed meter to capture the starting load figures for The Wynns on YouTube. A normal digital meter is too slow to capture the total draw.
I use and old analog meter and it reads the correct draw. Even my Power Saver Coleman draws around 35 to 40 amps. Don't have the figures in front of me. they are 2K miles away right now.
Just looked at the Dometic site and the 13,500 btu Brisk Air II draws 1670w running. This is about 14 amps. My 13,500 btu Coleman draws 7 amps running.


No idea which Coleman you have but the latest 13.5K Coleman Mach 3 draws 15 amps running. Pretty much the same as a Dometic. The Atwood does a bit better at 13.5 amps.

leadman 07-12-2019 06:33 AM

I have the Power Saver model. My coach is a 30 amp with 2 a/c units and came with the PS units. A little more money when I had to replace the front unit but well worth it.
There is a previous post somewhere here where the OP had 2 Dometic units installed on a similar coach as mine and his generator would not run. them The shop finally changed them out. Guess this is why the Dometic cost less.

Solo_RV_Guy 07-12-2019 01:17 PM

Dont know what the Coleman Mach from 2005 draws, but it draws more when the fan motor locks up... :(


I've got a new OEM motor and start cap on the way... First "major" repair for me in the 5 years I've had the Four Winds 23a.

RELHUB 07-12-2019 01:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leadman (Post 4859040)
bruceisla, got that figure from watching the guy from Soft Start with a specially designed meter to capture the starting load figures for The Wynns on YouTube. A normal digital meter is too slow to capture the total draw.
I use and old analog meter and it reads the correct draw. Even my Power Saver Coleman draws around 35 to 40 amps. Don't have the figures in front of me. they are 2K miles away right now.
Just looked at the Dometic site and the 13,500 btu Brisk Air II draws 1670w running. This is about 14 amps. My 13,500 btu Coleman draws 7 amps running.

I am thinking about replacement units and I like Coleman MACH V
I was just on the Coleman web site. They don't show any units at 7 AMPS
I see 13 and more.

I have TWO dometic units and they each use 15 AMPS.
Our MH is 6 years old already so a guess I should be happy our units are still going strong. The Front unit runs ..... 24 hours a day 7 days a week from MAY until OCTOBER.

I have our coach leveled and plugged in all season long
We use our MH almost every weekend.

1320Fastback 07-12-2019 11:39 PM

When the Dometic on our 2015 trailer started having issued I didn't even consider fixing it. Simply threw it off the roof and put on a AtWood which is far superior in every way.

Unfortunately now Dometic owns the AtWood brand but as far as I know they haven't let their engineers touch it.

Shawn6596 07-13-2019 04:43 PM

RV parts are junk Here is my next unit in my DP. And yes My next refer will be residential.

https://www.pioneerminisplit.com/pro...BoCwcoQAvD_BwE

leadman 07-14-2019 06:41 AM

RELHUB look at the Coleman 63152. This is a POWER SAVER model and listed at 9.9 amps running. We usually run the fan on low and it draws 7 amps with ambient temperatures are 80 degrees. At over 100 degrees it will draw 8 to 9 amps. Call Airexcel and talk with them, they make the Coleman units.

Shawn6596, is that 12,500 btu unit going to provide enough cooling for your DP? My 35' gasser came with 2 11,500 btu units. When the front one failed I replaced it with a 13,500 btu unit.

Tajfish 07-17-2019 02:43 AM

Just returned from a week at Roaring River. The new units performed well. One problem was sometime the zone 2 would show 80 degrees so the ac would not shut off because we set it at 72. Other times it would read correctly and cycle as it should ??

bruceisla 07-18-2019 06:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tajfish (Post 4868248)
Just returned from a week at Roaring River. The new units performed well. One problem was sometime the zone 2 would show 80 degrees so the ac would not shut off because we set it at 72. Other times it would read correctly and cycle as it should ??


Depends on sensor locations ... if remote sensors are on walls that are on the hot side, they are typically hotter than the inside air temp. Try measuring the wall temp with an IR gun.

GRUBBS 07-18-2019 02:20 PM

What's opinion on COLEMAN A/C's for an RV?

LogHomeFool 07-18-2019 07:23 PM

I had to replace a 6 yr old Coleman-Mach with heat pump last year. The coolant line was broken. The new one has lasted 13 months and failed today. Thank goodness for a standard 2 yr warranty.

Tajfish 07-19-2019 12:53 AM

I am going to pick up a IR temp gun tomorrow. Both zone sensors are on the same side of the coach. That side was facing north, away from the sun. We had partial shade. Zone 1 showed 71 inside temp, zone 2 showed 89. This happened several times over the 5 day stay. It just kept zone 2 on until we were really cold and would set the CCC 2 where the ac would shut off. Then it would work fine at times. I will probably order a sensor and pick up the temp gun and keep an eye on it.

veraken 07-19-2019 11:55 AM

A few years ago we replaced out thermosat with a new Dometic CCC2 unit. When we did, we had a problem. The thermostat is mounted on an outside wall and there is a small cavity behind the thermostat where the wires are run. The high temp in the wall meeting the cool air inside, created condensation on the thermostat's PC board which caused it to short out. To solve this I used low expansion spray foam in the wall and sheet foam on the back of the PC board. This solved the problem and haven't had an issue since. You may have a similar problem since you stated your sensors are on an outside wall.

Tajfish 07-19-2019 11:59 PM

My sensors are actually on inside walls but were on the north side of our campsite. One shares the wall between bath and kitchen, the one in question is on the wall between bath and bedroom. I looked at the sensor kit and they have a 10í cable. I am wondering if this cable runs in conduit over to the control box where I change the filter? Anyone changed one of these before I have a 2007 Bounder 38S dp.

GRUBBS 07-20-2019 10:05 AM

Great advice, I keep my little laser temp gun with me, it is very useful when checking temp's and making sure something is operating properly or exactly where the leak is! I even use it when checking my tires, just to make sure there is no slow leak, whether it's the car or the MH.

Shawn6596 07-20-2019 01:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leadman (Post 4863547)
RELHUB look at the Coleman 63152. This is a POWER SAVER model and listed at 9.9 amps running. We usually run the fan on low and it draws 7 amps with ambient temperatures are 80 degrees. At over 100 degrees it will draw 8 to 9 amps. Call Airexcel and talk with them, they make the Coleman units.

Shawn6596, is that 12,500 btu unit going to provide enough cooling for your DP? My 35' gasser came with 2 11,500 btu units. When the front one failed I replaced it with a 13,500 btu unit.

the unit im looking at is rated to heat and cool 350-400 sqft

Tajfish 07-21-2019 01:51 AM

Checked the remote sensor with ir temp gun today, zone 2 read 82 on the ccc2 but actual temp was 69. Zone 2 of coarse keeps running. Set temp to 83 and unit shut off. Ordered a new sensor. Looks like the cable runs in flex conduit so I will try to pull the new one threw it. Anyone that has done this, maybe have some pointers?

Stinger1968 07-21-2019 07:12 AM

New Roof A/C Unit
 
We recently had to replace our front A/C unit (13,500 heat pump Dometic) with a new Dometic 15,000 heat pump unit. Original unit, came on our 2007 Endeavor dp, ran well right up until the first warm day of this past spring. It apparently ran out of R-22 and would not put out any cool air. The compressor and fan motor and caps were all doing exactly what they were supposed to, just no cool air. The old unit upgrades to the 15,000 high output and is running well. One installer I had called to do the install said he refused to install any Dometic product - too much warranty labor to fix them after they failed! I heard the problem was quality from China. Not much we can do with this issue but buy the extended warranty coverage and hope for the best - terrible way to operate a business as others have said. So far, we're pleased with the performance of this new Dometic Penguin II heat pumper. We did have to order a new power control adapter board for adapting this new unit into our existing CCC panel in the coach - not a bigf deal and the instructions that came with it were very well-documented with photos, etc. Total cost was $1965.00 - ouch!!

mike brez 07-21-2019 08:47 AM

I did mine myself but I installed two 15k penguins with heat pumps new 10 button thermostate and two extra ac gaskets due to my condensate is plumbed to the ground for a total of $2400.00

Fleetwood13 07-22-2019 11:40 AM

I have just been told my AC fan is seized and it can't be fixed. The entire unit needs to be replaced. Is that correct that the fan can't be fixed?

Fugitive861 07-22-2019 12:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fleetwood13 (Post 4876240)
I have just been told my AC fan is seized and it can't be fixed. The entire unit needs to be replaced. Is that correct that the fan can't be fixed?




Perhaps looks for a parts diagram for your model unit. I would think that a fan motor, if available, can be replaced. Perhaps even WWGrainger may have a replacment motor with the right specs. Replacement should be able to be done with a/c unit remaining in place. Fan motor can be accessed simply by removing exterior cover.

Fleetwood13 07-22-2019 12:18 PM

Thanks Fugitive 861 I will do that.

mike brez 07-22-2019 12:23 PM

By time you purchase the motor take the old one out and getting the fans off and on the shafts your looking at a $500 min for a tech to do it for you.
Probably close to what a new one costs and one hour labor to install.
If you do it yourself it's just the cost of parts the labor is the killer.

Ivylog 07-22-2019 01:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fleetwood13 (Post 4876240)
I have just been told my AC fan is seized and it can't be fixed. The entire unit needs to be replaced. Is that correct that the fan can't be fixed?

Yes it can be replaced but doubt the motor is bad...could be the run capacitor or the rubber motor mounts are letting the blower drag.

Recently my son said the front AC fan on our 04 Dynasty would not run so I put the spare run capacitor on it without testing it first... mistake as the problem was the blower was dragging... stopping the motor after a couple minutes. 8-10 years ago I had shimmed the fan motor up stopping it from dragging and tried to do the same unsuccessfully. Once I had the evaporator cover off it was NOT the outside of the blower dragging (there’s plenty of room around the circumference), it was the side dragging on the sheet metal between it and the motor. Took a ax handle (between the motor and the sheet metal) to finally get the blower to move the 1/4” on the motor shaft necessary to stop it from rubbing. All 3 15K Dometic heat pumps are 16 years old and the front one is the only one I’ve had to work on. Buying a replacement 15K unit 10 years ago was cheap insurance.

Fleetwood13 07-22-2019 06:20 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Okay thanks all. Ivylog what do you mean the blower is dragging? Sorry I don't know. I assume it is in the enclosure to the right of the motor. Do you mean it is getting hung up on the enclosure?

Ivylog 07-23-2019 03:42 AM

A picture is worth a ........ Someone actually designed something you can work on easily. Yes on the right (different mounting) the blower was hitting the plate (you have 4 screws holding it on) mine is just a hole in a solid sheet metal wall (2’X3’).

Can you turn the fan blade on the left or is it hitting at the bottom? Does it keep turning for 6-8 seconds after giving it a good spin? If only a couple seconds then try oiling the shaft at the motor. Replacing the motor should take less than an hour if you are handy as the 4 screws let you take everything out once you take the fan off...plenty of room so easy to do. Looks like you can even read the #s for the motor IF replacing the run capacitor (inside the box on the R) does not fix it once you get it to turn freely.

Harry Joe 07-23-2019 08:06 PM

We were absolutely floored 6 years ago when our AC (under warranty) on our Thor wouldn’t operate properly—w/o a thought or trial diagnosis another was swapped in. They must be that disposable.

LogHomeFool 07-24-2019 02:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fleetwood13 (Post 4876240)
I have just been told my AC fan is seized and it can't be fixed. The entire unit needs to be replaced. Is that correct that the fan can't be fixed?



I removed a Coleman-Mach unit last summer for a broken coolant line and stored in my shed. The AC fan was still operational if youíre interested. Iím in southern New Hampshire.

Fleetwood13 07-24-2019 03:29 AM

Thanks all. I won’t have time for awhile to get on the roof to work on this. But I am very optimistic with all of your replies. And to loghomefool thank you for the offer. After I get more info on my issue I will reach out to you if I need a new motor. Thank you!

153stars 07-24-2019 06:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fleetwood13 (Post 4876240)
I have just been told my AC fan is seized and it can't be fixed. The entire unit needs to be replaced. Is that correct that the fan can't be fixed?

Try a heating cooling supply, some will sell some things to the public.Or elect motor shop.If the fans won't come easily off the shaft, cut the shaft. Use pipe or socket to hold hub and a pin to drive out shaft stub. Keep track/lable direction of fans. Ocasionaly you may need to use included shaft bushing to up size the shafts.

Solo_RV_Guy 07-24-2019 08:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fleetwood13 (Post 4876240)
I have just been told my AC fan is seized and it can't be fixed. The entire unit needs to be replaced. Is that correct that the fan can't be fixed?


It depends on the unit. My 15 year old Coleman Mach began to seize fan motor bearings last month. OEM Fasco motor was about $115 on Amazon, replaced the start capacitor too. With an buddy to help it took about an hour after we got the shroud off.


Unless you need a fan motor that is no longer being made a replacement is $100-$250 depending on model.

BradyB 07-27-2019 05:46 AM

One option may be to head North for the summer. Iím currently in Michigan. Havenít used the a/c yet this year.

Hit_the_Rhod 07-27-2019 06:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fugitive861 (Post 4876283)
Perhaps looks for a parts diagram for your model unit. I would think that a fan motor, if available, can be replaced. Perhaps even WWGrainger may have a replacment motor with the right specs. Replacement should be able to be done with a/c unit remaining in place. Fan motor can be accessed simply by removing exterior cover.


What make/model unit do you have? I purchased a new fan motor for ours, but turned out to be a start capacitor. I still have the new fan motor. If you're interested, pm me.

Tajfish 08-30-2019 09:57 PM

Called Fleetwood and found out that flex conduit I could see in the ceiling a/c control box does not go all the way across the ceiling to zone two. He said just pull it out of the wall in the bedroom and cut the wire and butt connect the new thermistor. I verified this with Dometic and then did just that. Installed new thermistor but I still get readings sometimes that are up to 20* higher than actual temps so the a/c unit will not shut off on satisfied temp. Any suggestions ?

Tajfish 09-12-2019 12:46 AM

So I reset the CCC 2 and still get a high reading on the zone 2.
A/C units are still running great in this 98 degree weather so maybe I got a bad batch last year. Now if I can just get the rear zone to read the right temp ??

spyderRV 09-12-2019 01:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fleetwood13 (Post 4876829)
Okay thanks all. Ivylog what do you mean the blower is dragging? Sorry I don't know. I assume it is in the enclosure to the right of the motor. Do you mean it is getting hung up on the enclosure?

I replaced both of my fan motors not because they failed but the bearings were worn and they made a bunch of racket. I payed less than $100 bucks for each of them including shipping and the run cap. Made by Fasco, D1092A I think.

Jeeper64060 09-12-2019 04:47 PM

Thermistors operate on very low voltage - it's very important to have a good connection. I'd look at where it connects to your control board.

Tajfish 09-12-2019 09:37 PM

I have checked connection to the controller in the ceiling. It all seems to be tight connections. May have to call Dometic back and see what they have to say. Just hit me, I might switch control boxes and see what happens. ??

HappyCampr4 09-13-2019 11:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Magredvet (Post 4836909)
+1.................then there is that whole "China " thing....:D
Having replaced two out of three of my original Dometics in 3 years, I am resigned to the fact that I will be shelling out for another one soon.
Trouble is you can't replace a Penguin II with anything else, unless you change the plenum, which is more work than I care to undertake.
I also have a Dometic outside cooler, which is two years old, already the digital readout is gone, and I'm sure it's reaching the end of it's life, now that the warranty is up. :rolleyes:

I'm probably going to be replacing my A/C units on my '94 Georgie Boy in the near future. You say changing the plenum is a lot of trouble. Does this apply to the older Penguin units as well or just the newer Penguin II's?

Stinger1968 09-15-2019 07:54 PM

How did you manage to lift those 135# units up to the roof??

theaaronbush 09-15-2019 09:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stinger1968 (Post 4957875)
How did you manage to lift those 135# units up to the roof??



I used a tractor with a front loader

HappyCampr4 09-19-2019 06:30 AM

I want to replace my front roof A/C with a Coleman Mack Air 15K unit. Currently it has the original Dometic Penguin. It's a '94 Georgie Boy Cruise Air, 34' on a Spartan chassis. I know I will need the inside ceiling unit and wall mount thermostat. Can anyone tell me if the through-the-roof frame size is the same? Also, will the Coleman thermostat be compatible with with the existing gas furnace? How many wires does the Coleman thermostat require?

hypoxia 09-19-2019 07:19 AM

I've had campers with A/C units for 35 years and have not had one fail that I was unable to easily repair yet. If you're replacing them something else is going on as has been suggested by other posters.

I would go to great lengths to avoid the newer R410 refrigerant units.

Radiators have coolant, A/C units have refrigerant.:facepalm:


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