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-   -   Quality of roof top air conditioners (http://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/quality-of-roof-top-air-conditioners-449825.html)

Tajfish 07-17-2019 02:43 AM

Just returned from a week at Roaring River. The new units performed well. One problem was sometime the zone 2 would show 80 degrees so the ac would not shut off because we set it at 72. Other times it would read correctly and cycle as it should ??

bruceisla 07-18-2019 06:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tajfish (Post 4868248)
Just returned from a week at Roaring River. The new units performed well. One problem was sometime the zone 2 would show 80 degrees so the ac would not shut off because we set it at 72. Other times it would read correctly and cycle as it should ??


Depends on sensor locations ... if remote sensors are on walls that are on the hot side, they are typically hotter than the inside air temp. Try measuring the wall temp with an IR gun.

GRUBBS 07-18-2019 02:20 PM

What's opinion on COLEMAN A/C's for an RV?

LogHomeFool 07-18-2019 07:23 PM

I had to replace a 6 yr old Coleman-Mach with heat pump last year. The coolant line was broken. The new one has lasted 13 months and failed today. Thank goodness for a standard 2 yr warranty.

Tajfish 07-19-2019 12:53 AM

I am going to pick up a IR temp gun tomorrow. Both zone sensors are on the same side of the coach. That side was facing north, away from the sun. We had partial shade. Zone 1 showed 71 inside temp, zone 2 showed 89. This happened several times over the 5 day stay. It just kept zone 2 on until we were really cold and would set the CCC 2 where the ac would shut off. Then it would work fine at times. I will probably order a sensor and pick up the temp gun and keep an eye on it.

veraken 07-19-2019 11:55 AM

A few years ago we replaced out thermosat with a new Dometic CCC2 unit. When we did, we had a problem. The thermostat is mounted on an outside wall and there is a small cavity behind the thermostat where the wires are run. The high temp in the wall meeting the cool air inside, created condensation on the thermostat's PC board which caused it to short out. To solve this I used low expansion spray foam in the wall and sheet foam on the back of the PC board. This solved the problem and haven't had an issue since. You may have a similar problem since you stated your sensors are on an outside wall.

Tajfish 07-19-2019 11:59 PM

My sensors are actually on inside walls but were on the north side of our campsite. One shares the wall between bath and kitchen, the one in question is on the wall between bath and bedroom. I looked at the sensor kit and they have a 10 cable. I am wondering if this cable runs in conduit over to the control box where I change the filter? Anyone changed one of these before I have a 2007 Bounder 38S dp.

GRUBBS 07-20-2019 10:05 AM

Great advice, I keep my little laser temp gun with me, it is very useful when checking temp's and making sure something is operating properly or exactly where the leak is! I even use it when checking my tires, just to make sure there is no slow leak, whether it's the car or the MH.

Shawn6596 07-20-2019 01:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leadman (Post 4863547)
RELHUB look at the Coleman 63152. This is a POWER SAVER model and listed at 9.9 amps running. We usually run the fan on low and it draws 7 amps with ambient temperatures are 80 degrees. At over 100 degrees it will draw 8 to 9 amps. Call Airexcel and talk with them, they make the Coleman units.

Shawn6596, is that 12,500 btu unit going to provide enough cooling for your DP? My 35' gasser came with 2 11,500 btu units. When the front one failed I replaced it with a 13,500 btu unit.

the unit im looking at is rated to heat and cool 350-400 sqft

Tajfish 07-21-2019 01:51 AM

Checked the remote sensor with ir temp gun today, zone 2 read 82 on the ccc2 but actual temp was 69. Zone 2 of coarse keeps running. Set temp to 83 and unit shut off. Ordered a new sensor. Looks like the cable runs in flex conduit so I will try to pull the new one threw it. Anyone that has done this, maybe have some pointers?

Stinger1968 07-21-2019 07:12 AM

New Roof A/C Unit
 
We recently had to replace our front A/C unit (13,500 heat pump Dometic) with a new Dometic 15,000 heat pump unit. Original unit, came on our 2007 Endeavor dp, ran well right up until the first warm day of this past spring. It apparently ran out of R-22 and would not put out any cool air. The compressor and fan motor and caps were all doing exactly what they were supposed to, just no cool air. The old unit upgrades to the 15,000 high output and is running well. One installer I had called to do the install said he refused to install any Dometic product - too much warranty labor to fix them after they failed! I heard the problem was quality from China. Not much we can do with this issue but buy the extended warranty coverage and hope for the best - terrible way to operate a business as others have said. So far, we're pleased with the performance of this new Dometic Penguin II heat pumper. We did have to order a new power control adapter board for adapting this new unit into our existing CCC panel in the coach - not a bigf deal and the instructions that came with it were very well-documented with photos, etc. Total cost was $1965.00 - ouch!!

mike brez 07-21-2019 08:47 AM

I did mine myself but I installed two 15k penguins with heat pumps new 10 button thermostate and two extra ac gaskets due to my condensate is plumbed to the ground for a total of $2400.00

Fleetwood13 07-22-2019 11:40 AM

I have just been told my AC fan is seized and it can't be fixed. The entire unit needs to be replaced. Is that correct that the fan can't be fixed?

Fugitive861 07-22-2019 12:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fleetwood13 (Post 4876240)
I have just been told my AC fan is seized and it can't be fixed. The entire unit needs to be replaced. Is that correct that the fan can't be fixed?




Perhaps looks for a parts diagram for your model unit. I would think that a fan motor, if available, can be replaced. Perhaps even WWGrainger may have a replacment motor with the right specs. Replacement should be able to be done with a/c unit remaining in place. Fan motor can be accessed simply by removing exterior cover.


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