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Jpownell 10-12-2019 11:03 PM

Brake and brake line help for 1971 Revcon
Hereís the good news. Iíve got new rotors, new ceramic brake pads, rebuilt wheel cylinders, new rear shoes and related, and I was able to resurface my existing rear drums. My brakes work well in normal traffic on a flat road at reasonable speeds. About 50 miles on them before I took the Revcon for a trip.

On a long grade down, approx 6%, to the desert floor in Borrego Springs, my front brakes overheated and I lost power assist pressure. Fast forward, the rubber vacuum line from the manifold to brake booster looked fine but was blocked. Brake shop initially said I may need a new power booster!! Nope. Three foot of new rubber and I now have power assist back.

Today Iím driving around running errands in the Revcon. Fairly small downhill residential street. And I still overheat the the fronts with a gripping noise.

I ordered a new PV2 proportioning valve today. Want to do the brake lines also. Iím thinking I might have the same problem in the rubber brake lines that I did in the rubber manifold vacuum to the power booster. Things are blocked and preventing pressure flow.

Any suggestions?

Does anyone have any links, recommendations or experience to share with part numbers and thoughts on either/both rubber and metal brake line replacement? Front and rears.

I didnít see any brake line info on the old Revcon parts list that used to float around on Google+.

Thanks in advance !!


wimpy 10-13-2019 11:46 AM

I posted this back in April. It is under Tech Info heading & I think covers your issues.
Get back if not.

Originally Posted by wimpy (Post 4731216)
Here's my 2Ę, based on bringing 6 vintage cars & RVs back from the semi-dead.

Resurrecting a vehicle in storage for 10+ years. This deals primarily with brake issues.

Step on the brake pedal a couple of times to check the pressure. If the brake pedal is too soft, this indicates lack of pressure, which can be caused by a faulty master or wheel cylinder or other leakage.
Check the brake fluid level. If there's no evidence of leaks in the reservoir, wheel cylinders, or lines, chances are you've got contaminated fluid.
Inspect the brake lines for signs of leaks, rust, or corrosion.

After eliminating master cylinder & wheel cylinders as faulty and ensuring all the metal lines are intact & not rusted, you can concentrate on the other hardware & fluid. If the vehicle was exposed to road salt, you should probably plan on replacing the metal brake lines. The rubber brake lines have a life of 6-8 years. Replacement can be relatively inexpensive if you live in a metro area. You will need a flare nut wrench set (<$20) & some PB Blaster and maybe a pair of ViseGrip locking pliers to remove the brake hoses & lines. Take lots of pictures so you have before & after results & in case you forget what went where/how.

If you are planning on doing your own repairs, you should be aware of safety issues. Use the proper lifting jack & always support with a proper capacity jack stand before you get under the vehicle.

Brake fluid is hygroscopic! Your brake fluid has been absorbing water every day since it was put in the vehicle originally. All the rubber has been deteriorating internally since it was installed. SO:
1. Flush the brake system until you have clean fluid exiting the bleeders.
2. Remove all the rubber brake hose & get someone like Royal Brass & Hose or Pirtek to duplicate what you have. I've used stainless braided hose.
3. Check all the metal brake lines & replace any that are questionable, you will want to use a cupro-nickel line which won't rust like steel
4. Remove the brake cylinders & either replace or rebuild based on what you find and your ability & level of expertise.
5. Rebuild or replace the calipers.
6. Once everything is new/refurbished/rebuilt buy some Castrol Dot 4 Brake Fluid (formerly Castrol LMA) which you should plan on replacing by flushing every 2 years.

Remove all the engine hoses & belts & replace them.

This website will be your friend:

Plan on replacing your rubber fuel lines. Dependent upon the fuel that was in the tank you may not need to have it cleaned. E10 absorbs water & rots older rubber fuel lines and can create rust in your tank. You probably will need to drop the tank & inspect. If it has an intank fuel pump replace the filter & dependent upon your budget, replace the pump as well.

In 2007, I drained a RR tank that had 25 yr old gas(it looked & smelled right-I think it was a high-test fuel from the early 80s) which I dumped into my late model Lincoln with no issues. E10 will be a different story, it's just nasty stuff.

I use ethanol free fuel in anything built before 1995.

BJohnsonsv 11-17-2019 11:34 PM


Originally Posted by Jpownell (Post 4994607)
Does anyone have any links, recommendations or experience to share with part numbers and thoughts on either/both rubber and metal brake line replacement? Front

Here are links to the R/L rubber brake links I used for the fronts. I also had a new metal line bent up for the front by a local shop for a very reasonable price (under $100).

I have not yet replaced the rear rubber line (there is only 1 that T's into the metal rear line).

Good luck!

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