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-   -   Slide leak when closed: 2008 Itasca Lattitude (http://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/slide-leak-when-closed-2008-itasca-lattitude-470470.html)

ShaunAED 11-27-2019 07:52 PM

Slide leak when closed: 2008 Itasca Lattitude
 
First mild rain of the season so I headed over to check the 2008 Itasca Lattitude we just bought and found wet carpet.
Traced it back to the driver side slide top rear but I could be mistaken. Rig was not level, just parked for storage.
Water puddle was just under the rear slide wall at the inner most part. I opened the slide and didn't find more, the carpet was dry going towards the outer wall. Roof and vents are all dry. Top of the slide does show water in the upper corner when looking at it from the inside of the rig with the slide closed

Rig was high on that side so I leveled it and went home (we store it else where).

Just a few weeks ago I conditioned all the slide seals, waxed the unit, cleaned everything, etc, etc. Seals seamed to be quite soft and in good shape, but I must have missed something. Maybe the seals are 'flat'?

Any tips?
I'm more than willing/capable to purchase replacement parts.....Just don't quite know what I got myself into with our first RV. (I own an automotive performance shop)

Ray,IN 11-27-2019 09:50 PM

IMO you're on the right track. Inspect the seals, make sure they are not folded backwards,but are instead smooth against the slide exterior surfaces. Using slide seal lube was great. Being off-level may had contributed to water intrusion, re-leveling was a good decision.

ShaunAED 11-28-2019 10:59 AM

Upon further inspection the seals look to be OK, no cracks or damage, but I did notice the slide is IN further to the chassis at the bottom than the top (tighter seal at the bottom vs top). IE, mis-aligned.

Anyone know the alignment procedure for the slides?

We have the 'flat floor' design.

Wild Card 11-28-2019 11:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShaunAED (Post 5055688)
Upon further inspection the seals look to be OK, no cracks or damage, but I did notice the slide is IN further to the chassis at the bottom than the top (tighter seal at the bottom vs top). IE, mis-aligned.

Anyone know the alignment procedure for the slides?

We have the 'flat floor' design.

Inside the HWH rams are poly pads called bearing pads. These wear/break. This could cause some mis alignment if they are in need of service. The flat floor however is the most pain to service by design.

ShaunAED 11-29-2019 05:08 PM

Found and printed the HWH Flat Floor adjustment instructions and found our coach has a PowerGear setup.
Lucky me I think. Couldn't find any plastic wear pads, lots of rollers which I lubed a few weeks back. Nothing seemed excessively worn at all. IMO seemed like a better setup than what I've seen online with the HWH.

I then re-adjusted both slides. First incorrectly (going off the body paint work), then correctly as follows:

With slide fully extended measured distance from ram arm to frame and ensured all were even on the slide. (Probably should have measured the distance from ram to frame under the coach as well to ensure all where at the same angle.....or at least put an angle finder on the ram, but I'll do that later.)
Measured distance from ram arm at the outermost point to the slide floor and found they varied a bit.

The slide that leaked seemed to be lower compared to the body paint by a decent amount both front and rear, and the rear was slightly higher than the front by 1/8th (ram arm to floor). I raised the rear 1/4" and the front 3/8th" to match. That extra 1/4" should seal the top of the slide tighter when closed (less tight when open). From there I measured the fully extended and fully closed positions and found the rear of the leaking slide (where it was leaking) was 1/2" shorter when fully extended and 1/8th out when fully closed compared to the front. (seals not tight when slide was IN or OUT)
Lucky for me the Stops on the Powergear setup were easy to adjust.
I then checked the inside seals to ensure a tight fit when fully opened and closed.

Did this on the Full wall slide as well (3 ram arms, 2 with power). That one took a little longer, and again I found mis-alignments.

All of this was done with the coach Level BTW.

Rain coming tomorrow or Sunday so we shall see if I got it nailed.
If not, seals don't look too bad to replace, aside from removing the top awnings which could use new material anyway.

Unicorn Driver 11-29-2019 08:50 PM

I have the exact same coach as you. We have had apem water get in at the top of the slide in torrential rain.

Have you called Winnebago?

ShaunAED 11-30-2019 11:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Unicorn Driver (Post 5057426)
I have the exact same coach as you. We have had apem water get in at the top of the slide in torrential rain.

Have you called Winnebago?

No I have not.
I am confident as to were the water was coming in, and have found / resolved alignment issues with the slides that will force a tighter seal.
The seals are original and although in decent shape, they are 12 years old and have compressed to match where they've been sitting for 12 years.

There is also a transition at the corners the seals must seal against. A step in the plastic molding 1/8-5/16" high. This will be a difficult spot to seal, even with new seals as the outer bulb seal would like not ever seal this completely and we'd then be relying on the flapper/sweeper style seal, which again is cut to fit the corner and the upper flap sits over the side flap seal, but that too can leak as it is 2 separate seals with ends cut. 3 seals in the corner and Winnie is relying on a bulb seal against 2 pieces of plastic that have a transition in height.

Poor design, IMO yes. Since I'm in the automotive field I can say with confidence the door seals on any 12 year old vehicle are superior in design. No transitions to seal against, and the end cut of the seal would NEVER be at the top or in a top corner, it is always at the bottom of the door. This is a recipe for water leaks.

For now raising the coach slide will force the bulb seal to move into a different position and force a tighter seal. Aligning the slides and adjusting the stops has also forced a tighter seal.

Beyond that, it'll be new bulb seals and top flapper / sweeper seal, and some cutting/leveling of the uneven plastic in the corners. This would NOT be a good idea with the old seals as they have a 'memory' of the transition and any leveling would leave a gap in the seal when closed.

Unicorn Driver 11-30-2019 04:20 PM

Best of luck with your fix.

ShaunAED 12-02-2019 04:01 PM

We got a lot of wind and rain over the last 2 days.
There is no water on the floor/carpet, but I see water on the top of both slides.

Time for seals I guess.

Unicorn Driver 12-02-2019 04:28 PM

Sounds like seals alright.

We have had that issue intermittently on occasion, not often though.

ShaunAED 12-02-2019 07:12 PM

Wow it's hard to find the correct seals.

Spent the last few hours going thru schematics and digging up part numbers.

Roughly $600 for the exterior seals on both slides. (bulb and wiper)

Some vendors had these seals for $20/ft! (yikes)

Wild Card 12-03-2019 06:59 AM

Have you checked Steele Rubber Products?

ShaunAED 12-03-2019 10:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wild Card (Post 5061291)
Have you checked Steele Rubber Products?

They don't have the exact units needed specified in the Winne manual.
I could put something together given their selection, but it would not be any cheaper.

I have 2 slides, one is over 12ft wide, the other over 19ft.

I still cannot find the OE bulb seal (winne part# 158297-01-000), found a quality piece that will work for a good price and comes in 66ft pieces (I would need 2).
https://www.amazon.com/Kaixuan-Autom.../dp/B07K7FZWPD

There is a little confusion on my end for the bulb seal as the Itasca manual I have specifies the above part number, but another online manual for the Winnebago version shows a slightly smaller bulb seal 099418-01-000 from the same manufacture (Lauren Manufacturing), and I found another seal used in the Winne's for the same spot on the slide with this part number: 156386-01-01A
Both available on Amazon for $2.10-$2.50/foot.

34ft of double lip wipe top OEM seal for $5.70/ft
https://www.amazon.com/Lauren-Manufa.../dp/B00OZCD7DQ

32ft of single lip wipe side OEM seal for $7.40/ft
https://www.amazon.com/Lauren-Manufa.../dp/B011Z4O2YY

$50 in shipping as well for all of this.

ShaunAED 12-03-2019 03:45 PM

Surprise suprise! Factory installation error!

I headed over to the rig to ensure the seals I found online where the correct units on our rig.
What I found was a factory installation error.

The Double swipe / double bulb seal is supposed to go on the TOP of the slide, and the single swipe / double bulb seal on the sides.

Our rig has the Double swipe seals on the SIDES and the SINGLE ON TOP!!!
The single swipe seal doesn't even hit the top of the slide when it's out! LOL

I also found a seal on one side that was cut 2+" too short. Of course this is not the slide that was leaking so I didn't see it before.

Bulb seal should still be replaced, but I do not see why I should need to replace the side seals on the slides as they are in good condition, super tight, and a double swipe design. I will replace the one side that is too short, and of course the top seals, but the others are fine.

And it looks like I need to keep looking for the correct bulb seal. The seal is 2-way taped into a rail that is 1/2" wide, so I need to find a seal with tape that is narrower than the units linked above.


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