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funmoneypit · 07-25-2018, 12:15 PM

We have a Suburban 6 gallon water heater. The electric heating element went bad. I changed it out with a generic one from Lowes. The original was 1440 watts and the new one is 1500 watts. The switch for the electric is really hard to turn on now. Never was before. This is on our '04.

Could it be the higher watts? What do you think?

Old-Biscuit · 07-25-2018, 12:31 PM

Functionality of switch has NOTHING to do with wattage of element

The ON/OFF switch is exposed to the elements....they fail.
Common issue with those switches
They snap in place.....get new 120V AC switch and replace it

CB for that element is probably 15A

1440W ---12A draw
1500W ---12.5A draw

funmoneypit · 07-25-2018, 12:34 PM

Thanks for the reply. I figured there wasn't any correlation but it's weird that it just became harder after I changed the element. Oh well, have to look for a new switch. Thanks again!

Mudfrog · 07-25-2018, 01:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

Functionality of switch has NOTHING to do with wattage of element

The ON/OFF switch is exposed to the elements....they fail.
Common issue with those switches
They snap in place.....get new 120V AC switch and replace it

CB for that element is probably 15A

1440W ---12A draw
1500W ---12.5A draw

I didn't realize anyone used an element of those wattages on a 6 gallon rv tank. The Hott Rod I installed many years ago on ours is rated at 450 watts.

To be honest, I wouldn't want anything larger. There are times when i'm sure the rooftop air, microwave, and water heater are on at the same time. With our 30 amp set up, an overload condition would certainly result if this were to occur with a 1500 watt element.

But then again, the OP probably has 50 service,,, so nevermind.

funmoneypit · 07-25-2018, 01:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mudfrog

I didn't realize anyone used an element of those wattages on a 6 gallon rv tank. The Hott Rod I installed many years ago on ours is rated at 450 watts.

To be honest, I wouldn't want anything larger. There are times when i'm sure the rooftop air, microwave, and water heater are on at the same time. With our 30 amp set up, an overload condition would certainly result if this were to occur if my wh element was 1500 watts.

But then again, the OP probably has 50 service,,, so nevermind.

Yes, our rig is 50A. The original element was 1440 watts.

Mudfrog · 07-25-2018, 01:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funmoneypit

Yes, our rig is 50A. The original element was 1440 watts.

And here again, something else I didn't realize. That a larger coach with 50 amp service would have a 6 gallon water heater tank. I would have bet money it would be 10 or more gallon in size. Thanks for the thread, i'm learning something everyday!

Edited to add: The extra few watts going through the switch shouldn't have caused it to malfunction. Guess it's just time for a new one.

nothermark · 07-25-2018, 02:05 PM

You will find the same element in a 30 Amp coach. Hott Rods are lower power than the one's the tank builders use.

Was the switch disturbed during the changeover? Our switch is on a different wall and controls a relay at the tank. If one has a real switch near the tank and it was physically strained during the element installation that might cause a problem. I might dismount the switch and see if the force needed changes. If so look for a bent bracket. I don't see any other connection between changing the element and the switch.

Mudfrog · 07-25-2018, 02:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nothermark

You will find the same element in a 30 Amp coach. Hott Rods are lower power than the one's the tank builders use.

Was the switch disturbed during the changeover? Our switch is on a different wall and controls a relay at the tank. If one has a real switch near the tank and it was physically strained during the element installation that might cause a problem. I might dismount the switch and see if the force needed changes. If so look for a bent bracket. I don't see any other connection between changing the element and the switch.

Don't mean to keep the thread off topic but,,, WOW!

That just doesn't make sense to me. A rooftop running (not starting) at 10 amps and wh at 12, leaves around 8 amps reserve. Power on the microwave and the circuit is overloaded, or at least at its limit. I guess people with a 30 amp set up like this learn to take turns powering stuff on and off so that they don't trip breakers.

Oh well, i'll quiet it down now.

funmoneypit · 07-25-2018, 03:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nothermark

You will find the same element in a 30 Amp coach. Hott Rods are lower power than the one's the tank builders use.

Was the switch disturbed during the changeover? Our switch is on a different wall and controls a relay at the tank. If one has a real switch near the tank and it was physically strained during the element installation that might cause a problem. I might dismount the switch and see if the force needed changes. If so look for a bent bracket. I don't see any other connection between changing the element and the switch.

For electric, the switch is outside on the water heater. Changing the element doesn't do anything or come in contact with the switch.

I went back out and turned it off. I then cycled it on and off a few times and it is real easy now.

Old-Biscuit · 07-25-2018, 08:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mudfrog

Don't mean to keep the thread off topic but,,, WOW!

That just doesn't make sense to me. A rooftop running (not starting) at 10 amps and wh at 12, leaves around 8 amps reserve. Power on the microwave and the circuit is overloaded, or at least at its limit. I guess people with a 30 amp set up like this learn to take turns powering stuff on and off so that they don't trip breakers.

Oh well, i'll quiet it down now.

Suburban & Atwood combo units with OEM elements are 1440W (Suburban) and 1400W (Atwood)

They are full size standard water heater elements and fit thru a 1 1/2" Hole

Hott Rod & Lightning Rod are 2 aftermarket heating elements that are used on water heaters that are propane only and therefore have to use the drain hole which are only 3/4" (Suburban) and 1/2" Atwood so those elements are small in size and wattage

1400W draw 12A
SO if RV is 30A then 'energy management' is necessary
But having the option of electric or propane is a nice feature

Summer time....A/C is probably #1
Winter time.....Propane for furnace and then electric for fridge, water heater etc.

Options.....

USMCRET · 07-28-2018, 05:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funmoneypit

For electric, the switch is outside on the water heater. Changing the element doesn't do anything or come in contact with the switch.

I went back out and turned it off. I then cycled it on and off a few times and it is real easy now.

You are going to need to change out that switch anyway. Once they head down that road, they don’t turn back. They are cheaply made and cheap in price.

txcpl · 07-28-2018, 05:27 AM

I agree with USMCRET.

JFXG · 07-29-2018, 03:25 AM

Those little switches that are mounted right on the face panel of the device— (the obvious ones are the water heater and the domestic water pump.)— are cheap little units that sit unmoving for years on end. Then, when they DO finally get flipped there’s often some piece of degraded plastic or insect mud that breaks off and jams up the works. It’s reasonable to assume that switch should be replaced, even though it appears to be passing electricity.