1984 Holiday Rambler Imperial trailer

[Gump]

Originally Posted by IC2

Ahhh yes, I recall a similar problem (2x) with our now gone Titanium. I replaced them with conventional Leviton 'Decora' which maintain the look but have screw connections and in a shallow old work box. There was enough wire in mine that I had no problem with cutting and installing. The trailer manufacturers use the 'pass through' no box type so they can save bucks installing (time is money)

An old work box is too wide and too deep unless I want to cut the skin on the outside of the camper. I'll either try and find a skinnier, shallower, old work box or cut and glue the box I have back together so I can use the wing tabs and screw holes for the decora style GFCI. Although I haven't tried a Lowes type store yet.

[IC2]

Originally Posted by Gump

An old work box is too wide and too deep ..........

I didn't have any problem with depth but did have to enlarge the hole just a bit for the old work boxes. I have found listings for the trailer style outlets on the web but since HD/Lowe's and the Decora replacements were just minutes away, went for them as my replacements supplier. There is always J-B Weld or epoxy, a sharp saw and a few minutes time to make your own

[Gump]

I got the little counter attached but it doesn't fold down flat. Due to the weight of the Marble, I'm not sure it's a good idea to build out so it can fold flat. Although the possibility of it getting knocked off is bugging me. Got a piece of marble cut so the oven fits correctly. Got some an o-rings so the faucets would seat correctly. The furnace works and the gas valves!

Also made up some little cable straps to hold the sink down since the marble is too thick for other mounting.

Still no luck in locating an old work box for the outlet. Going to plan B.

Another problem is the size of the battery boxes on the outside of the trailer. I'm not sure what battery they used in 1984 but a deep cycle battery less than 8.5"'s tall does not seem to exist anymore.

[nvestysly]

Good luck with your project. That's certainly an interesting trailer.

See ya down the road!

[guardrail53]

Originally Posted by Gump

I got the little counter attached but it doesn't fold down flat. Due to the weight of the Marble, I'm not sure it's a good idea to build out so it can fold flat. Although the possibility of it getting knocked off is bugging me. Got a piece of marble cut so the oven fits correctly. Got some an o-rings so the faucets would seat correctly. The furnace works and the gas valves!

Also made up some little cable straps to hold the sink down since the marble is too thick for other mounting.

Still no luck in locating an old work box for the outlet. Going to plan B.

Another problem is the size of the battery boxes on the outside of the trailer. I'm not sure what battery they used in 1984 but a deep cycle battery less than 8.5"'s tall does not seem to exist anymore.

Gump, on your counter extension, could you mount a piece of oak under the counter lip, and attach your extension to it to give you the room for it to fold flat, and mate up to the counter at the same level, when it is in the up position? Just a thought? The marble looks awesome! Rail!
PS. Just re-read your post, but I still think you could do it, and you could mount it with liquid nails, and drill holes and bolt it with carriage bolts, just counter sink them a bit. That should be very stable to mount it too, then use a good quality piano hinge! Still just a guess, as I am not there, and going by the pictures?

[JohnRR]

Originally Posted by guardrail53

The marble looks awesome! Rail!

That's worth repeating.

[spritz]

I agree what a difference.

[Gump]

Aaahhhh, this is like owning a boat.....

The fridge, a Dometic RM2811 didn't want to work on A/C. I'd swear I saw it run on AC before, maybe lightning got it. Ran the ohm test on the heater and diagnostic test and I ordered a Dinosaur P-711 board. It's got AC but doesn't recognize it there and power the heater.

The city water check valve is toast and I can't seem to find one anywhere like it and it has some sort of 1/2 compression fitting type thread.

Replaced some fluorescent bulbs, finished up the countertop & stove, got some new plumbing gaskets for the sink and a drainer.

Got the central vac sucking. It needed a pre filter to hold the bag away from the suction hole.

Ordered an awning pole thing, leveling blocks, chalks, septic hose, water hose, & pressure regulator.

Dicor lap sealant and some other caulk to do the maintenance then wash and wax.

Good news is the AC works and the water pump.

[JaycoEagle10]

Whew, you got too many pics up to answer many questions, but I'll try on a couple.

The (2) exterior faucets is for hooking up water. One has a screw off cap. That's for DIRECT filling up of your fresh water tank if you go to campsites that don't have any water or water hookups.
The second, is if you're at a campsite and they have water available at each camper lot. You use your water hose WITH a "water pressure reducer" and screw onto the fitting.
I believe it only uses water as it's pumped through the system and bypasses the fresh water tank. I have them on my '84 Prowler, but I've not used the second line yet. I'm still learning from my BiL how some things work on my Prowler, as this is my first TT.

You'll also want to wash out the fresh water tank. They make tablets for this, but if you use about a 1 cup of bleach and rock the trailer back/forth while filling, it helps clean out. Then drain all of tank. Repeat if needed to clean out tank's interior real good, or you'll be taIt'll also require running power to trailer to run the water pump for sink fausets.sting old plastic and dead bugs for awhile. You can run the water down the sink's drain over to grey holding tank if want, to also clean it out, but you'll need to hook up black water hose before pulling the T-handle to drain.

Something I did to my clean water tank is install a direct drain system on it. I used 1/4 turn valve, PEX 1/2" pipe/fitting rings, and a adaptor plug w/1/2" nipple to fit PEX pipe and made it to where I can drain after camping(pulling home). This way you don't need to run your water pump. I've got pictures if needed to show. At home I use an old garden hose and fit onto end of PEX drain to divert any water down my gravel drive away from camper after a winter flushing of tank.

The red mark on the propane tank is a part of the regulator and shows which tank is empty. You're missing another 30# tank. When you get both tanks filled, you turn the knob on top to start using that tank. When empty, the red mark comes up to show empty, and you turn knob to other tank for more propane.

I have this type regulator on my Prowler also.

[MT4Runner]

When adding a wire to continue 110V power on from one of my PIA receptacles, I soldered both into the little clips so they wouldn't wiggle loose, then pushed the clips back into the body of the receptacle. I had to trim a bit of plastic on the "teeth" that push the wire into the clip, as they were long enough to push in a single wire, and now thicker with two wires. After the trim, it easily snapped back together.


With 20+ year-old plastic, beware of cracking! Pry gently and use spreaders carefully.

[Gump]

Thanks for the Tips! I'll have to look at the propane again. I don't remember seeing a valve.

Anyone know what type of thread this city water check valve is or where to get one? The hardware and camper store people don't know. Probably just stick a valve on the female side since they don't seem to make it anymore. Then there's this thing but I don't think the threads are the same.
https://www.rvsupplyparts.com/catalo...2p-a-8301.html

[MT4Runner]

Looks like an "all in one" unit. You may have to do a few adapters. Do you have room?

[Gump]

There is room behind the check valve. I can't however mount that check valve any differently.
Reall don't want to cut the grey water line going to the check valve though..

[HoneyBadger]

Are you familiar with Sharkbite style push-on fittings? They make plumbing repairs in tight places much, much easier.