Community Forums

swoodall · 06-25-2015, 06:22 PM

I am relatively new to a 2008 Holiday Rambler 34' Vacationer XL diesel camper, with 12k miles. It hasn't been used much but did sit at a dealer and in storage off and on for a while.
The front slide has at some point leaked in the front road corner. The bottom of the slide, the plastic panel, tore when the slide was recently extending presumably due to the expansion of the OSB, so I cut the rough edges away. The edge along the botton, lacked caulk as it appears to have on the other side of the slide. I put some tape up temporarily. Everything still works, we went camping a couple of times with it.

How would you go about fixing this? When I extend the slide I get small pieces of wood in the carpet inside. I don't really want to replace the carpet which is in okay condition, or even the wood if not necessary. I just want to fix it up so it is usable and then figure out how to prevent future leaks.

it it possible to slightly raise the whole slide up? I think that would prevent the rubbing of the wood into the carpet.

bdpreece · 06-25-2015, 10:54 PM

I had my slide bottom repaired by Elite RV Repair in Harrisburg Oregon 541-995-4767. These guys are ex Monaco techs. What they did was put a stainless steel plate on both ends of the slide bottom. From what I understand this is something they designed and you can order the parts from them. I have also heard of others who use 8x34 door kick plates from home depot glued and screwed to the bottom of the slide on each end. If you want pictures let me know.

swoodall · 06-26-2015, 09:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdpreece

I had my slide bottom repaired by Elite RV Repair in Harrisburg Oregon 541-995-4767. These guys are ex Monaco techs. What they did was put a stainless steel plate on both ends of the slide bottom. From what I understand this is something they designed and you can order the parts from them. I have also heard of others who use 8x34 door kick plates from home depot glued and screwed to the bottom of the slide on each end. If you want pictures let me know.

Pictures will be great. Thanks for replying! I hoped there was an easier fix than putting in a new floor.

bdpreece · 06-28-2015, 09:09 PM

PM sent with link to pics.

Clayobx · 06-28-2015, 09:24 PM

If your handy and have tools. I will guide you through a permanent waterproof epoxy repair. Never to be maintained again. Takes time and a little know how! PM if interested. What's that silver tape just a band aid to help leaking or holding stuff in place? Ahh. It's holding the bottom panel in place. I repaired a friends Beaver with the same problem.

TNMike · 01-17-2016, 12:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdpreece

I had my slide bottom repaired by Elite RV Repair in Harrisburg Oregon 541-995-4767. These guys are ex Monaco techs. What they did was put a stainless steel plate on both ends of the slide bottom. From what I understand this is something they designed and you can order the parts from them. I have also heard of others who use 8x34 door kick plates from home depot glued and screwed to the bottom of the slide on each end. If you want pictures let me know.

I have the same issue on a bedroom slide out on my 2002 HR Endeavor. If I could get those photos too I would be grateful. Also the door kick plate fix sounds like a good solution. Thanks!

Clayobx · 01-18-2016, 04:43 AM

Just an update on the Beaver repair. It's still doing well but the weight has set groves into the epoxy repair. West system is holding and the groves may stay put. The kick plates are aluminum not strong enough to not warp out of shape. You got to use stainless with at least 1/8 inch or more preferably 3/16. JMO.

Davdeb1 · 01-18-2016, 10:41 AM

Both slide on my 2000 Holiday Rambler are going to need the bottom filon repaired. It seems to be pulling away from the edges. I was thinking of some type of waterproof epoxy. I've got a 3 month window in the summer. I'm going to try and attempt this myself.
I would love to see your thoughts on this Clayobx

Clayobx · 01-19-2016, 06:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Davdeb1

Both slide on my 2000 Holiday Rambler are going to need the bottom filon repaired. It seems to be pulling away from the edges. I was thinking of some type of waterproof epoxy. I've got a 3 month window in the summer. I'm going to try and attempt this myself.
I would love to see your thoughts on this Clayobx

My experience comes from twenty plus yeas as owner operator of a boatyard. FWIW. I have effectively repaired three slide areas to date. Is your coaches roller fixed and the slide bottom rolls over it (the rollers) like the Beaver? If so you will need to glass in(epoxy, West System) a plate either of stainless or dense carbon steel. If your slide rollers are affixed to the slide itself and roll over an aliminium or steel guide only epoxy laminate will be necessary. It's not a hard job but you have to have some experience and correct tools, sanders etc. once completes its like new except you'll never have an issue. Please send a pic if you can I'll be happy to set up a repair list and work you thru the issue.

Davdeb1 · 01-19-2016, 11:57 AM

As soon as I can get a pic I will. Mine are similar to Beavers, fixed rollers on floor of unit and slide out box rolls over them. You solution is what I thought, but I have been trying to plan how to do it. The rear slide out just seems to fit flush across the bottom.
I'm on O2 so its hard to maneuver, but I'll get it done somehow.
Pics to come.

Clayobx · 01-20-2016, 06:19 AM

Ge'ez Dave I don't know. It's messy hard work. However send pics. Maybe friends can do some of the really tuff grinding. What material is the bottom of the slide box? Covered wood with Al sheeting, melamine type material that the Beaver uses?

Davdeb1 · 01-21-2016, 08:27 AM

That's what I figured. The material is a white thin plastic laminated to thin wood.

Clayobx · 01-22-2016, 10:23 AM

Yep same as Beaver. If I were doing the job correctly I would cut out a section reinforce with fiberglass and West System then inlay a stainless plate while the West and cloth were still curing. It would obviously need an existing frame to bond to or laminate a piece of hardwood or similar bracing then cloth with west epoxy then cap and bond edges of the plate. Other possibility is to bond the edges of the base with the West of course grinding and multiple laminates. If your tolerance will allow a stainless plate mounted and screwed to the slide panel base and its a firm reinforced area that will support the weight it's an much easier job. I know Monaco bonded and screwed a metal plate to their slide bottoms go correct the exact issue. However, the edges must be laminated or they'll just continue to flex and open up. The Beaver I laminated w/o the plate is scoring but still sound. If I did it again I would bond in the stainless or steel plate. But is was s freebie job I'm not volunteering go do it again.

Davdeb1 · 01-22-2016, 07:41 PM

I'm sure the degradation started from leaks that I corrected after I purchased the unit. Who knows how long it leaked. My plan was to put a thin sheet of stainless steel in the area that contacts the rollers. Bonding it as you are indicating seems to make the most sense. I was going to bond the edges that are separating with the fiberglass.

As soon as I can get some pics though I will post to you.