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Old 04-09-2018, 10:31 PM   #15
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I just talked with my son. Things seem to be settling out a little bit. Converter is currently on the GFCI outlet and holding. The rest of the coach is unplugged right now but was powered earlier through a non-GFCI 20amp outlet while they were cleaning the MH. My son talked with the previous owner and he said he never had electrical problems like this but he also always used a dedicated 30amp circuit for the RV while it was stored at home.



One switch we are not sure about is a 3 position rocker switch near the door that is labeled "Aux. Battery On/Off". It is a momentary switch. By that I mean it rests in the middle position. If you push the switch up or down, it goes back to the middle when finger pressure is released. What is this switch connected to? Is this similar to what some people call a "Salesman Switch" which basically kills all electrical power to the entire coach?



------ Jim


On my 35U the 3 position switch by the door/steps disconnects the coach batteries from the coach. When in the off position none of the lights or 12v equipment have power. When on the 12v equipment is powered up. I believe my switch says “coach disconnect” or something similar.

I believe your switch does the same thing as mine. It is used when you store the coach and you don’t want the batteries run down prematurely.

Note: even with the coach batteries disconnected with this switch there is still some power draw on the coach batteries. For sure the propane detector is still powered up. Possibly some other things like the propane tank level gauges and such. Even with the coach disconnect switch in the off position the coach batteries will drain down over time. It takes a couple of months on my coach.
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Old 04-10-2018, 03:36 AM   #16
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Hmm. If I remember correctly I had this same problem when I had inadvertently drained the water heater with the electric coils still on. Even after the electric side of the heater was off it would still throw a GFCI. I imagine you could test resistance through those coils to eliminate it?
The element can short the inner core heater wire to the outer shell of the element. The element may still work.

That will short the neutral to ground, giving a second path to ground. The test is to remove the white wire from the element and see if the fault goes away.
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Old 04-10-2018, 10:32 AM   #17
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Again, I really appreciate everyone's responses. AKIQPilot, I have forwarded your information to my son. This makes sense to me but I have no idea why Itasca decided to call it an Aux. Battery On/Off switch. Do you know if the charger/converter is charging the batteries when this switch is off? The charger/converter in my son's MH is a Magnetek Series 7400 Model 7445 which has a charge rate between 0.5amps to 45amps @13.6VDC. (775 watts)

Twinboat, we will do this test on the water heater element but it might have to wait until I get to his house in a month or so. My son believes the previous owner only used the water heater on gas but maybe that is because the element is bad. My son and his family are taking the MH to a nearby campground this weekend to try things out and I'm sure he will at least try to run the water heater on electric.

------- Jim
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Old 04-10-2018, 11:25 AM   #18
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My previous RV was a 2000 Itasca Suncruiser 35U ....probably very similar to your son's. When plugged in to a 20 amp circuit, he needs to set the SMART EMS system lower . The panel for the smart EMS is at the front above the front seats.....there is a row of settings. The smart EMS will limit the AC draw to whatever you set (normally set to 30 AMPS).
When you first plug in, as mentioned by posters above, the battery charge will read "BULK Charge".....that can draw quite a bit of power and it doesn't take too much else to blow 20 amps.
Hope this helps.
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Old 04-10-2018, 02:23 PM   #19
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My 55 amp converter draw 8 amps @ 120 volts in bulk mode.
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Old 04-10-2018, 06:28 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by xv108 View Post
My previous RV was a 2000 Itasca Suncruiser 35U ....probably very similar to your son's. When plugged in to a 20 amp circuit, he needs to set the SMART EMS system lower . The panel for the smart EMS is at the front above the front seats.....there is a row of settings. The smart EMS will limit the AC draw to whatever you set (normally set to 30 AMPS).
When you first plug in, as mentioned by posters above, the battery charge will read "BULK Charge".....that can draw quite a bit of power and it doesn't take too much else to blow 20 amps.
Hope this helps.
Our vehicle is newer (2005 journey). When I plug in at home I have to use a garage plug which only has a 15 amp breaker (on a gfci) so I set ems at 10 amps.
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Old 04-10-2018, 07:00 PM   #21
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I have the SAME problem. Turn off the salesman switch (cut off all the 12V), make sure your electrical cord can handle 20A and isn't longer than 50ft. Someone previously mentioned how GFCI outlet works, it looks for a difference between neutral and ground. They are very sensitive. We were also tripping it because of a cheap Walmart outdoor extension cord. Bought a really nice 15A all weather outdoor cord. Huge difference.

Plug everything in and turn on the salesman switch. The EMS doesn't care, there probably isn't anything lower than 20A on that EMS which means if you are only running a 15A cord or not really plugged into a 20A you will only cause yourself problems. We run very little when plugged in at home, if we need more we kick on the generator.

Issue #2 don't run the heat unless its gas. Does your son really have 20A outlet and cord? If he doesn't make sure its at least a 15A cord. Buy as space heater ours draws 6A I think.

A side note in all of this, we had a fun time with one of the the GFCI in the rig. Found out we were getting water in the outlet on the outside of the rig on the outer wall. Keep that in mind if the above steps don't work.
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Old 04-10-2018, 07:09 PM   #22
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Jim-

Winnebago provides a wiring diagrams at this link. The set for the 2000 Itasca Suncruiser 35U is at this link. The "secret decoder ring" can be found at this link.

According to the "Body, 12V Wiring Diagram," (link here, sheet 1, which is PDF page 2)the "Battery Disconnect Relay" (activated by the "salesman switch") must be closed in order for the converter to charge the house batteries.
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