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Old 10-06-2022, 05:44 PM   #1
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2003 Journey water line leak location?

Coach has been sitting not used for 6 years. I start engine , generator, cycle slides and jacks, disconnect batteries and rotate position in backyard consistently. Trying to run city(house bib) water thru lines to get air out at very low pressure. Pump seems to be airlocked, so that is why i used house bib. Valve on city fill not tank fill. Water compartment on drivers side very rear panel behind tires. water starts leaking back to compartment where the lines disappear upwards in area between floor and chassis. Thus not traceable! Water dripping, running dropping near rear axle as well so no where near where lines would meet the tank. I dont see that there is any access inside coach to trace this. No water leaks at toilet, shower, sinks. No washer, dryer. Any idea how to trace this or how winnebago would in that tiny space where lines run? Thank you, Barry
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Old 10-06-2022, 05:56 PM   #2
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Look in the compartment that houses your 12 volt water pump. There should be a knob control that indicates "Winterize" and "Normal positions. Set it to "Normal". Very close to that pump you should see a quarter turn valve that is the winterizing drain for that pump. With the pump running, open that quarter turn valve for a few seconds to bleed the air off, then close it. Make sure you have a water supply in the onboard water tank. The pump will run until it reaches its set point pressure, then turn off. You house water may be introducing a pressure greater than the RV's plumbing can handle, causing some connection leaks in the PEX hosing.

Dan
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Old 10-06-2022, 10:00 PM   #3
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Could be.. critters at work again.. critters love to eat on rubber fuel lines and short wiring and nest in worst places.. so when things go haywire and don't make sense then keep critters in the back of your mind all the time.. they also love to eat on rv plumbing..
You may have to just run a hole new section of pipe.. alongside the old one.. and make connections..
Use your cellphone with flash on and record as far back as you can.. use a selfie stick.. they make bore scope camera with 15 ft of cord and you can fish it back in there..
You may need to pull the stove.. start pulling drawers. Look in bathroom and there are panels you can carefully pry out..
Now most rv of that area.. have low point drains.. so check those.. they have valves on them and po could have left open.. they are notoriously freezing.. up.. or could be blocked.. also look under rv.. drivers side.. just before rear duals .. for water heater.. on mine there is a panel with a ton of Phillips head screw to remove and open access.. now on mine.. there is a water heater bypass system in hidden compartment.. you should be able to find it next to water heater.. they can freeze up and break.. could be water heater..
Remember.. cellphone is your best friend and fits where your head cannot..
Good luck and keep us posted
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Old 10-06-2022, 10:04 PM   #4
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Hi Dan,
Our MH (36dl) does not have that valve. The manual says that it has an automatic winterizing system with on/off switch inside thus no valve in compartment. I have never used it as we live in San Diego. I do have the 2 lines that I believe are to drain the hot/cold system in the compartment which have levers to open/close. I dont know if accumulator has any pressure or could even cause this. I doubt it. I have always used a pressure regulator in the past whenever hooked up to city water.
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Old 10-06-2022, 11:41 PM   #5
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Thanks Don. I believe my water heater is on passenger side as the access panel is there. there is about a 2 inch opening where all the pipes enter an area between the floor and enclosed with no access from underneath. Can't get phone past that point. Lines not visible behind drawers and the fist access panel is the front wall of the bathroom which is also the backwall of the kitchen where all the plumbing and electrical wires enter the MH. This is way forward from the apparent leak. However that large opening was just one area that allowed infestation that took along time to diminish with spray foam. I suspect critters is the right answer but i did not think they could chew through the tubing like they do wiring! I suspect a camera scope like plumbers use could be helpful but don't have one.
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Old 10-07-2022, 07:29 AM   #6
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Those two "low point" drain valves you mentioned in the rear compartment may be enough to break that air lock causing you 12v pump not to pump. Once the pump starts, open both valves for a few seconds, then close and see if the pump primes itself. Make certain there is water in your onboard tank before to turn on the pump. As for the water leak, you say you have a city fill valve in the water compartment. Does that valve have two positions? Like "Fill" and "Normal"? If that is the case, that valve may have failed causing the leak. There have been a few doscumented instances on this forum where that issue is identified. That valve is mounted to a metal plate and that plate is secured by screws. Remove the screws and the plate should move enough to reveal the backside of the valve with its flexible water connections. I think the valve is held to the plate with 2 screws, but you will need a special tool to release the PEX locks on the water lines to remove them from the valve. Hopefully that is your problem and a replacement valve should be readily available at any RV/Camping store.

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Old 10-07-2022, 10:47 AM   #7
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Yes the valve is labeled city fill /tank fill and city fill would be normal position. If that valve was failing would it be leaking right at it's location? I have seen many posts that suggest if it fails then city water position just overflows the fresh water tank. I just bought an inexpensive inspection camera to hopefully trace the hoses inside the enclosed space. Thank you for your time and assistance, Barry
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Old 10-08-2022, 02:58 AM   #8
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Winnebago provides pretty good plumbing diagrams. Have you looked at yours to at least see where the pipes might be located?

What floor plan or model do you have?

Is the fresh water tank full? Could it be the fresh water tank overflow instead of an actual pipe that is leaking? The fresh water tank overflow issue is common.
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Old 10-08-2022, 03:28 AM   #9
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You did not say what model of journey you have. Here is the link for winnebago plumbing.
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...m/Plumbing.htm
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Old 10-08-2022, 01:29 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theroc View Post
Winnebago provides pretty good plumbing diagrams. Have you looked at yours to at least see where the pipes might be located?

What floor plan or model do you have?

Is the fresh water tank full? Could it be the fresh water tank overflow instead of an actual pipe that is leaking? The fresh water tank overflow issue is common.
I have the 36 DL. I have looked at diagrams, but to translate to what I see in the water compartment is very confusing! I did notice many of the lines have colored tape. I assume red is hot and blue is cold water but not sure where these lines are heading. There are lines that have white, and green tape as well but this not noted in plumbing diagrams. Any idea of color code? I did remove the pump and filter and confirmed it works so i am assuming an air leak in the supply line from the tank but how to trace? I don't think the water leaking out of the overflow as it is leaking back along the lines to the water compartment as well as behind and directly above the driver side rear axle wheel well.
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Old 10-08-2022, 01:31 PM   #11
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Thank you, yes I have looked at those but a challenge discriminating the multiple lines and connections behind the faceplate in the water management area!
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Old 10-09-2022, 09:02 AM   #12
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Hmmm, maybe time for Plan B. Those of us in the colder winter climates typically blow out our water lines in partial preparation for winter. On my coach, I made up a fitting with a shrader valve (like a tire valve) that screws into the city water connection and using an air compressor regulated to 30 lbs pressure, I connect to that schrader and blow out the water by sequencially opening each valve in the sink, shower and vanity. In your case, I would do the same just to get any water out of the lines I could, then close all the valves and pressurize the system with regulated 30 pounds of air pressure, and listen for the air leak. This way you're not dealing with water dripping or flying around or spraying noises, you're just narrowing down the location of that air leak. Make sure to put your water heater control into "Bypass" so the air doesn't get to it. I don't know the layout of your floor plan, but for my 36SE, the first place that water goes to is my vanity/toilet supply lines, then to the shower, then the kitchen sink. Our systems are such where most everything that's hidden can be accessed but sometimes a panel or cabinet needs to be removed to get to it.
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Old 10-09-2022, 11:27 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theroc View Post
Winnebago provides pretty good plumbing diagrams. Have you looked at yours to at least see where the pipes might be located?

What floor plan or model do you have?

Is the fresh water tank full? Could it be the fresh water tank overflow instead of an actual pipe that is leaking? The fresh water tank overflow issue is common.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pelledan View Post
Hmmm, maybe time for Plan B. Those of us in the colder winter climates typically blow out our water lines in partial preparation for winter. On my coach, I made up a fitting with a shrader valve (like a tire valve) that screws into the city water connection and using an air compressor regulated to 30 lbs pressure, I connect to that schrader and blow out the water by sequencially opening each valve in the sink, shower and vanity. In your case, I would do the same just to get any water out of the lines I could, then close all the valves and pressurize the system with regulated 30 pounds of air pressure, and listen for the air leak. This way you're not dealing with water dripping or flying around or spraying noises, you're just narrowing down the location of that air leak. Make sure to put your water heater control into "Bypass" so the air doesn't get to it. I don't know the layout of your floor plan, but for my 36SE, the first place that water goes to is my vanity/toilet supply lines, then to the shower, then the kitchen sink. Our systems are such where most everything that's hidden can be accessed but sometimes a panel or cabinet needs to be removed to get to it.
Thanks Dan, good thoughts! I am not sure I have a "water heater bypass control?" I like your idea and will try. I bought a cable endoscope hoping to follow the lines deep into the MH but it just snags after a few feet. Does your water lines have color codes? I have seen tape of colors red, blue but also white , green and an orange color. Someone must know what these represent of course assuming red(hot) and blue(cold) lines. I also broke the valve that changes from tank fill to city fill(normal) when trying to take apart a few connections.
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Old 10-10-2022, 08:19 PM   #14
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I would say that yes, red is hot and blue is cold. Not sure about what white would mean. I would start by pressurizing the system as I stated, then listen to the strength of the leak, and have an assistant open the kitchen sink COLD water. Did you hear a decrease in the leak's strength on the outside? If not, close the cold and do the same with the hot. At least this will tell you which line has the problem. What is directly above your water compartment inside the coach? Is there a cabinet or a drawer chest? If a drawer chest, remove the bottom drawer and you may see the lines below it.

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