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Old 05-28-2022, 12:55 PM   #1
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2004 Sightseer Roof repair questions

Greetings everyone. I am hoping some of you have some expertise in these roofs that can help direct or help me get started on this project. Hopefully someone has made the same repairs. I will post pictures of the problem area as well.

I have owned this unit for about a year. We purchased the unit with just at 19K miles, and it seems to be in very good condition as I perform preventative and routine maintenance to the workhorse chassis, and now the coach roof needs maintenance and repair.

I had heard about roof drip channel separation and subsequent failure, so while in my shop I used a ladder and inspected the channel. These seemed to be just some green mildew in parts of the channel, but otherwise intact.
Well a couple of days ago decided to give the coach and good washing and prepare to wax it as well. I decided I needed to give the roof a thorough scrubbing and that's when I found that just aft of the awning that the seal was broken on the drip channel (awning rail).

I have seen some repairs made on you tube, however would like to get any other points of view on this repair. What is the best way to remove the old sealant without doing any damage? Is the Geocel Proflex RV sealant the best product for the repair? There seem to be a multitude of different products and colors?

Also the other roof sealants look pretty good around vents etc., but how would one go about checking for leaks and sealant around the air conditioner?

Thanks for any of your advice, and experience.

Jeff
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Old 05-28-2022, 06:43 PM   #2
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Hi
I'm sure a lot of people will respond and make several recommendations for this; I had the same thing happen on my coach. I was on vacation when I just decided to check out our roof as we had a lot of heavy rain no leaks it just prompted me to check. I went to a local hardware store and bought a good quality white RTV sealant cleaned up the gap used a shop vac to suck out any loose material and proceeded to go along and fill the gap smoothed it off and it looked good and still holding to this day and that was about 4 years ago now.
Hope this helps a lot of good exterior grade product out there to choose from.
Kindest Regards
Onebrit
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Old 05-28-2022, 09:19 PM   #3
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Hi
I'm sure a lot of people will respond and make several recommendations for this; I had the same thing happen on my coach. I was on vacation when I just decided to check out our roof as we had a lot of heavy rain no leaks it just prompted me to check. I went to a local hardware store and bought a good quality white RTV sealant cleaned up the gap used a shop vac to suck out any loose material and proceeded to go along and fill the gap smoothed it off and it looked good and still holding to this day and that was about 4 years ago now.
Hope this helps a lot of good exterior grade product out there to choose from.
Kindest Regards
Onebrit
Hey thanks Onebrit. I'm just trying to tell myself it isn't that difficult to dig out and reseal. I watched a video of AZ Expert do this on a 2004 Vectra. I am a DIY since I retired, but have always found there is something you're not expecting when you do something for the first time.

I don't have any experience with these sealants, and in my experience I tend to get more on myself than on a project. I'll arm myself with old clothes and nitril gloves, I'm sure it'll go alright.

I'm glad the RTV worked so well for you, that takes down my anxiety level somewhat. Living in the Pacific NW, rain is a fact of life, so I want to make it so I don't have to do it again if possible.

I would still like to hear from anybody that has any experience with the Geocel Proflex RV crystal clear sealant. It seems very spendy per 10 pz. tube. for a 30 foot coach I wonder how many tubes we're going to use. The other sealants on the roof appear to be original and in good shape, but I can not tell for sure. I plan on adding some pictures of the whole roof later on.

Thanks for your input
Jeff
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Old 05-28-2022, 10:34 PM   #4
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Does anyone have experience with geocel Proflex RV sealant and/or Nuflex 640? Would really like different opionions so as to make a more educated choice in sealant for this fix.
Thanks
Jeff
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Old 05-28-2022, 11:35 PM   #5
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Does anyone have experience with geocel Proflex RV sealant and/or Nuflex 640? Would really like different opionions so as to make a more educated choice in sealant for this fix.
Thanks
Jeff
1. getting the area clean is paramount ... scrub and then i'd use acetone (jmho)
2. I like polyurethane sealants good ones never get hard stay stuck, and will allow movement but at the same time add a level of bonding... I like Vulcum brand comes white black tan bronze ect... (no clear)
good luck
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Old 05-29-2022, 07:54 AM   #6
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There is a recent thread here https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...nt-363971.html on the different products and cleaning. The thread starter is doing some experimenting with different products. I did mine about a year ago with Proflex so too soon to tell, but I did get mine 100% clean (including new paint), let it cure for weeks and I also store indoors so I am hoping to get 10 years out of it like the original lasted. If you choose Proflex beware of the manufacture date, it has a fairly short shelf life.
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Old 05-29-2022, 05:53 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by ponytl View Post
1. getting the area clean is paramount ... scrub and then i'd use acetone (jmho)
2. I like polyurethane sealants good ones never get hard stay stuck, and will allow movement but at the same time add a level of bonding... I like Vulcum brand comes white black tan bronze ect... (no clear)
good luck
I've watched a couple of videos about this now and that seems to be the most important part, get it clean, and acetone is mentioned alot. Also just watched someone talking about using a polyurethane sealant (by the way I'm a huge fan of Vulkem, caulked my house with it). I've heard Geocel Proflex RV Sealant Crystal Clear, Nuflex 640, 311, Locktite PL Window Door & Siding Polyurethane, etal. It sounds like you're having good success with Vulkem.

Thanks again for checking in and the advice!
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Old 05-29-2022, 06:09 PM   #8
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Hi
Again, yes cleaning is paramount with using any kind of sealant, if you use a caulking gun and the appropriate sealant you won't get it on you just enter the tip into the gap and allow the product to fill the void as you move along. Just don't over fill so you can use your wet finger to smooth and shape or buy the plastic smoothing tool.
Take your time you can make a nice job of it and be proud that you accomplished something.
Kindest Regards
Onebrit.
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Old 05-29-2022, 07:14 PM   #9
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There is a recent thread here https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...nt-363971.html on the different products and cleaning. The thread starter is doing some experimenting with different products. I did mine about a year ago with Proflex so too soon to tell, but I did get mine 100% clean (including new paint), let it cure for weeks and I also store indoors so I am hoping to get 10 years out of it like the original lasted. If you choose Proflex beware of the manufacture date, it has a fairly short shelf life.
Hi Bigb56, thank you for the link you listed. Great thread and yes it has given me much to think about sealant wise. I'll be cleaning the heck out of mine before sealing. I only have maybe 6 feet where the sealant has failed along the filon and the awning rail (or whatever it is called), however I'm almost committed to doing the full length cleaning and resealing of both sides. May be it's better to do it in sections so the roof filon remains tight, what is your advice? I did come up with this you tube video ---- and think I'll do the whole roof this winter, just the gutter sealing now.

Thank you for the lesson on the Proflex. The AZ pro used this product, and he does it for a living, however I'm leaning to polyurethane. Regardless I'll be cleaning the heck out of it. Thank you much for the advice, I very much appreciate it and of course that link!
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Old 05-29-2022, 07:25 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by onebrit View Post
Hi
Again, yes cleaning is paramount with using any kind of sealant, if you use a caulking gun and the appropriate sealant you won't get it on you just enter the tip into the gap and allow the product to fill the void as you move along. Just don't over fill so you can use your wet finger to smooth and shape or buy the plastic smoothing tool.
Take your time you can make a nice job of it and be proud that you accomplished something.
Kindest Regards
Onebrit.
Hello Onebrit, Good to hear from you again. That's what I've learned cleaning and cleaning some more. I have heard of some of these roofs getting torn off by wind or suction from passing vehicles. I hope this repair will keep the filon from delaminating and thus no fly away roofing. I was wondering if I should do this in three foot sections to keep the roof tight while curing the sealant, or perhaps using some sort of weights to keep the filon tucked well in during the resealing. I'm inteested in if anyone else thinks this is important during the reseal. Thanks again for chiming in! I hope everyone is having a great Memorial Day weekend!
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Old 05-29-2022, 07:57 PM   #11
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I wouldn't replace the sealant as it's already proven it's not up to the job. What I did is to apply 2" Eternabond tape down that roof edge. 1" on the roof, the other 1" inside the channel. The original caulking, obviously factory installed, was pulling out in long strips in some areas and stuck firm in others. I just had the workers pull it and if it came out, fine, if not, just cover it. I had the RV roof washed and waxed just before, then I had the workers wash the joint with alcohol, followed by a dry scrub with a stiff bristled brush before application of the tape.

So far, years later, I've not had to do anything to it. The Eternabond seams have been holding fast for 5 years now, maintaining their bright white color, seem to be impervious to UV or rain. The best part? Not having to do an every 6 month close inspection of any caulking as recommended by the RV manufacturer's current recommended caulking regimen. I've used the tape on both edges of the roof and the roof seams for front and end caps. No leaks whatever.

Here's my ad free blog articles about it if you're interesting in not having to mess with it again: Roof Edges...
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Old 05-30-2022, 01:55 PM   #12
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I wouldn't replace the sealant as it's already proven it's not up to the job. What I did is to apply 2" Eternabond tape down that roof edge. 1" on the roof, the other 1" inside the channel. The original caulking, obviously factory installed, was pulling out in long strips in some areas and stuck firm in others. I just had the workers pull it and if it came out, fine, if not, just cover it. I had the RV roof washed and waxed just before, then I had the workers wash the joint with alcohol, followed by a dry scrub with a stiff bristled brush before application of the tape.

So far, years later, I've not had to do anything to it. The Eternabond seams have been holding fast for 5 years now, maintaining their bright white color, seem to be impervious to UV or rain. The best part? Not having to do an every 6 month close inspection of any caulking as recommended by the RV manufacturer's current recommended caulking regimen. I've used the tape on both edges of the roof and the roof seams for front and end caps. No leaks whatever.

Here's my ad free blog articles about it if you're interesting in not having to mess with it again: Roof Edges...
Hi Jim_HiTek, thanks for your info. I've read your blogs and appreciate what you've done with the Eternabond. I guess we have more in common as well.
I also had retina detachment and laser surgery, not fun, but I had mine in my later 30s, now 30 years ago. I hope you're doing well now. I do think that maybe the twisting of the frame may be the culprit in some of these roofs becoming delaminated. I know that I was thinking about it after I made a tight 90 degree from level to about a 15-20 degree slope. I think that tight turn, twisting, and rolling of the RV probably really does contribute to these roof failures. I'll be avoiding them in the future.
Thanks again for chiming in Jim!
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Old 05-30-2022, 05:27 PM   #13
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Hi Jim_HiTek, thanks for your info. I've read your blogs and appreciate what you've done with the Eternabond. I guess we have more in common as well.
I also had retina detachment and laser surgery, not fun, but I had mine in my later 30s, now 30 years ago. I hope you're doing well now. I do think that maybe the twisting of the frame may be the culprit in some of these roofs becoming delaminated. I know that I was thinking about it after I made a tight 90 degree from level to about a 15-20 degree slope. I think that tight turn, twisting, and rolling of the RV probably really does contribute to these roof failures. I'll be avoiding them in the future.
Thanks again for chiming in Jim!
Thanks for the compliment. And I'd like to ask you a question about your retina reattachment surgery if you don't mind and I'll do that with a PM so as to not fork this thread.

Yeah, I'm pretty much avoiding racking the frame now myself after reading and talking to RV'ers about their roof issues. What I do now is carry several 6 foot long 1" X 4" sticks and if I have to negotiate a compound turn, I take my time and use the sticks under the wheels where necessary to sort of even or level it out as much as possible. I can stack the wood too. Of course there are some steep turns and some washboard roads I won't even take.

I was just moochdocking at a friends home in Tucson and his main cement paved entrance road is way to steep for an RV. So I had to clear the large rocks and cut back the vegetation on the other gravel road to come in the back way. Nasty, but no bad racking or overly steep with that route.
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Old 05-30-2022, 09:21 PM   #14
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Thanks for the compliment. And I'd like to ask you a question about your retina reattachment surgery if you don't mind and I'll do that with a PM so as to not fork this thread.

Yeah, I'm pretty much avoiding racking the frame now myself after reading and talking to RV'ers about their roof issues. What I do now is carry several 6 foot long 1" X 4" sticks and if I have to negotiate a compound turn, I take my time and use the sticks under the wheels where necessary to sort of even or level it out as much as possible. I can stack the wood too. Of course there are some steep turns and some washboard roads I won't even take.

I was just moochdocking at a friends home in Tucson and his main cement paved entrance road is way to steep for an RV. So I had to clear the large rocks and cut back the vegetation on the other gravel road to come in the back way. Nasty, but no bad racking or overly steep with that route.
I have driven all the way from San Jose del Cabo to Washington State, and remember some of the roads down there being marked with a painted white rock just before coming to a bridge that was washed out, and the track people had to take down through the wash to get to the other side. Luckily I was driving an old 70s Suburban to negotiate those wash outs. Figured out quickly what peligroso meant. Look forward to your PM.
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