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Old 02-14-2021, 08:06 PM   #1
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2005 Itasca Tail light mounting

I have a 2005 Sunrise 35A that I am replacing a damaged tail light that had came out of the cap. I am not sure how to get the brackets back in after I purchased a new tail light.
In the picture is one side of the mounting bracket, the matching piece is glued onto the cap. It appears that I would panel adhesive the bracket back onto the matching piece that remained on the RV when it was popped off. I do not see any evidence of old adhesive on the mounting-brackets so I am wondering if these brackets just pop on to the matching brackets that are glued in. The surface that matches up to the side with the 4 elongated holes. The other end has grommets to hold one side of the light in place. The other bracket is bolted onto the light assembly. (which I don't have a pic at the moment). So still glued onto the inside of the cap, is a matching 4 elongated holed piece that this one matches up to and I was going to adhere the two together. With the lack of any old glue on either piece, it looks like they had snapped together somehow but I might be missing that connection piece if there is one. Do these somehow snap back together? Thanks for any help you are able to give.

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Old 02-14-2021, 09:40 PM   #2
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Any chance of inspecting the fixture on the other side to see how it's held together?
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Old 02-14-2021, 10:19 PM   #3
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There is a piece of metal panel adhesived to the inside of the cap on both sides. It looks just like the 4 elongated hole section in the picture. They are just flat against the fiberglass cap and looks very difficult to get them off, that is why I am thinking they the brackets glued on to these glued on cap pieces but both matting surfaces are clean, like new.
It is hard to explain so I will try to get out there and get some pics. it is -9 below right now and tomorrow is going to be -20 below with out wind chill!

If you can imagine a flat piece of metal, matching the surface of the surface in the picture. It would seem logical if the piece mounted inside the cap had 4 bolts coming out of it, the bracket could bolt right on, but there are no bolts. just a - like new looking surface. Seems like they should just snap back together but I have not had any luck with that yet.
I am kind of thinking they snap together to avoid a substantial damage when hit and snap apart before it tore up the fiberglass cap? The other mounting bracket is longer with the assembly mounting bolts going through it to bolt on the light.
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Old 02-14-2021, 10:25 PM   #4
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The lens assembly just bolts to these two brackets after they have been affixed to the inside if the cap. There is room to get up behind it to put nuts on the light assembly. My confusion is, how to put the mounting brackets back on. Then I could bolt the light assembly on.
The assemblies came from a 2004 Camry. A trick/tip about looking for replacement tail lights I took from from other posts and smart members. Saved some big bucks, Thanks to those guys for sure.
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Old 02-15-2021, 01:55 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fillupd View Post
The lens assembly just bolts to these two brackets after they have been affixed to the inside if the cap. There is room to get up behind it to put nuts on the light assembly. My confusion is, how to put the mounting brackets back on. Then I could bolt the light assembly on.
The assemblies came from a 2004 Camry. A trick/tip about looking for replacement tail lights I took from from other posts and smart members. Saved some big bucks, Thanks to those guys for sure.
Had the same problem with my headlight brackets. 3M makes an adhesive that worked very well on GLUING mine back on. Cant remember the name of the product but it took a week for it to cure , if thats any help. As a matter of fact, I even used it on my hood brackets with very good results. Be sure to let it cure before attempting to bolt on the taillights. My tail lights are 2004 Chevrolet pickup aftermarket. Sorry I dont remember the name. There was also a version that cured in two days but I figured longer is stronger.
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Old 02-15-2021, 02:02 PM   #6
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OK, found it it. Its 3M Marine 5200. https://www.amazon.com/3M-Marine-520...dDbGljaz10cnVl
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Old 02-15-2021, 02:28 PM   #7
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Thanks, that is what I bought at first and then thought maybe the 3M 8115 panel adhesive would be better. Had to buy that and a cartridge gun so I hope it works. The 'stuff' holding the flat brackets inside the rv cap is hard and is black so I was guessing it was an epoxy like that. The 5200 does not get really hard so I thought that would have been better to take the vibration. Maybe 6 of one and a half dozen of the other type of thing.
Glad it worked for you, that give me a little more confidence.

I have used the 5200 before, you are correct - it takes about 7 days to cure well but holds very well. Either one would work but I am wanting to head to warmer climates in 3-4 days.
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Old 02-15-2021, 02:56 PM   #8
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JB Weld has been used by many. Scuff up the old glue and the mettle bracket. You could also drill some holes in the bracket for the JB to ooze into.

It sets up a lot faster.
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Old 02-15-2021, 03:12 PM   #9
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Thanks, that is what I bought at first and then thought maybe the 3M 8115 panel adhesive would be better. Had to buy that and a cartridge gun so I hope it works. The 'stuff' holding the flat brackets inside the rv cap is hard and is black so I was guessing it was an epoxy like that. The 5200 does not get really hard so I thought that would have been better to take the vibration. Maybe 6 of one and a half dozen of the other type of thing.
Glad it worked for you, that give me a little more confidence.

I have used the 5200 before, you are correct - it takes about 7 days to cure well but holds very well. Either one would work but I am wanting to head to warmer climates in 3-4 days.
Sounds good, I can only speak for the 5200 but I trust 3M completely. Have a good trip.
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Old 02-15-2021, 04:02 PM   #10
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Setting up faster would definitely be a plus since I will need to be out there with a heat gun warming everything up for at least a while.
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Old 02-15-2021, 06:19 PM   #11
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I think Rvarner had it right. Putting metal to fiberglass is best done with 5200. I have some curing on one of the brackets that came loose on my rear engine hatch right now. I have also used it on 2 previous coaches in the past and it worked great.
5200 does take a week to cure but they also have 5200 fast cure which I have never tried because the regular stuff has always worked so well for me.
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