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DaredevilBob · 07-10-2021, 03:54 AM

Anyone know how to recharge the A/C on the basement A/C System ??

Thank You
DAREDEVILBOB :-)

emiddleb · 07-10-2021, 07:53 AM

Out of the factory, you cannot recharge the basement air coolant. It's a sealed system. Some have added ports when repairs made it necessary, but normally not something you would have. Are you having cooling issues?

Wild Card · 07-10-2021, 08:39 AM

You shouldn't have to recharge, it's a sealed system.

They do not come from factory with taps for gauges, so taps would need added (brazed in)

Ray,IN · 07-11-2021, 10:02 AM

Yes it may be recharged by a qualified residential air conditioning expert. You will need to remove the unit from the MH though.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wild Card

You shouldn't have to recharge, it's a sealed system.

They do not come from factory with taps for gauges, so taps would need added (brazed in)

The "saddle valves" seem to always leak.

sandpsycho · 07-16-2021, 09:49 PM

Ports would need to be added to add any gas to the system. If it's low it has a leak. Recharging it would only be temporary without fixing the leak. Is the RV new to you or have you noticed a difference in its cooling? One big problem with the basement air is the delivery of air from it to the roof ducts. The plastic snorkel can come lose, from the top, a big deal to fix or the bottom, fairly easy to fix. Even working perfect in extreme heat a properly working unit car leave a lot to be desired.

Robert36 · 07-18-2021, 02:38 PM

We havw a 2006 journey with basement air and had a problem with bearings on the two blowers. Before you do anything, turn on the air and get under the back of the rig and feel for leaking cold air , when you are under the rig you can easily see the ductwork as it leaves the back of the A/C unit and goes up the back of the rig. I had big leaks where the elbow on the bottom joined the straight duct that goes up the back of the rig. i was able to seal everything with gorilla tape and foam, the kind in the can. if you have to remove the A/C unit, the hardest part is removing the screws where the elbow is attached to the back of the A/C unit. the A/C unit is held in place on a frame under the A/C , and you lower the unit down about 3 inches and slid it out sideways. the electrical wires have enough slack, that it is possible to have the unit completely out side the rig and test run it. remove the top panel and the compressors and blowers are right there. you will have to remove some of the side panels to service the compressors . There are other discussions on this site to help you out. I will point out one thing. the outer bearings on the blowers assemblies are bronze bushing with an oil reserve. Because nobody ever oils these, the bearings run dry. Replace these with a sealed balled bearing from Grainger, 2X897. Each blower has one bearing. also the blower moters have a plastic plug on top to oil the bearings in the motors . I hope this helps.

Robert36 · 07-18-2021, 05:12 PM

hERE ARE SOME PHOTOS THAT MIGHT HELP YOU.

amosnandy · 07-18-2021, 05:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaredevilBob

Anyone know how to recharge the A/C on the basement A/C System ??

Thank You
DAREDEVILBOB :-)

My local RV repair expert (and they are good) remove them from the coach and take them to one of the local HVAC contractors. Most recent was to replace a compressor. And yes, the installed High/Low Schrader valves in. Only way to charge after replacing a compressor. Even the Winnebago Factory Service center does the same thing.

I suggested it might be cheaper to just buy a new unit, as they are available for about $2200. Looks like just a remove and replace. But was told the new units venting is different, and takes a lot of ductwork and remodeling to replace. I guess the rear cap actually has to come off to modify the ductwork. So repairing the old one was the most cost effective solution.