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Old 10-17-2021, 12:44 PM   #1
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2013 Tour inspection

Weíre looking at a 2013 Tour and Iím wondering if anyone has tips as to what the inspector should pay attention to. Iíve looked at the coach by want a professional inspection before buying. Thanks in advance.
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Old 10-17-2021, 12:59 PM   #2
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I have the year earlier in the Itasca Ellipse which is the same motorhome. I think the normal things such as
- slide operations and any associated wear. The 2013 had new slide components that I believe were an issue for a start.
- Bed operation if it moves up to allow the bedroom slide to move - I did have to put stops in place to prevent damage to the switches
- Generator hours and Mtce, have the belt(s) been changed
- Engine serpentine belt changed- regular mtce but needs changed based on age alone.
- Check for corrosion on chassis and the exhaust pipe at the clamp - we were in OH for a few years and although I washed the underside regularly, salt built up inside the clamp and the exhaust broke off at that point recently.
- these are not all specific to this model but a couple of them are. The rest are typically included in a professional inspection.
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Old 10-18-2021, 07:53 PM   #3
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Check all the batteries.
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Old 10-21-2021, 10:23 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Postma View Post
Check all the batteries.
Ditto.

If the batteries are original, you will likely be looking at replacing all of them. 6 AGM coach batteries +- 2 Chassis. FWIW chassis batteries were replaced very reasonably $-wise by Freightliner at a recent yearly service, and I have replaced our house AGM batteries twice now, 1st time with OEM NAPA batteries, second time last fall with Duracell. Same batteries both made by DEKA, just different branding and logos on the case. And way lower cost than NAPA. There's several battery threads on IRV2 to review and lots of choices. It's not a bad job, takes about an hour and several Advil after lifting batteries in and out of their location! Take pictures before you do it, wipe the cables clean of grime when you take it apart and use the red battery terminal corrosion prevention spray when putting it back together.
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Old 10-22-2021, 04:34 AM   #5
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If you are going to have a professional, certified inspector do the work they know what to look for. I was at a seminar once given by an inspector and boy do they look at everything. I think if you want to go that way you should just let them do what they do. Its then up to you if you are going to move forward or not.
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Old 10-23-2021, 01:57 PM   #6
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My experience from a 2013 Journey, should be a lot of similarities.
  1. Pull on the cabinet over the drivers head on the left side and see if it will come away from the wall.
  2. Check the slide lock trays to see if they have moved in bored about 1/8 of an inch, must remove topper to check this. Seal as necessary.
  3. Check the mattress support, the part the mattress is resting on to make sure it hasn't sagged. Also check the floor in the storage under the mattress for sagging.
  4. If it still has the air matress fill both sides to 50, come back in 8 hours and see if it still has 50.
  5. Check that the washer and dryer are firmly attached.
  6. Check that the dry vent is properly attached need a borescope for this. You "might" be able to check by running the dryer on high empty for a while and see if there is a lot of hot air behind it but a visual inspection is best.
  7. Check that the refrigerator is firmly attached
  8. Check all the drain pipes under the sink and check that the faucet is not leaking around the base destroying the wood under the cabinet top.
  9. Under the floor under the sink there is a swivel on the drain that moves when you move the slide. It might have a slow leak.
  10. Remove the screws from around the sky light in the shower if they are rusted even a little you probably have a leak.
  11. Remove the screws from around the A/C vents at the front of the coach, if they are rusty you might have a leak in the satalight dish.
  12. Let water run down the windshield from the top for 10 or more minutes, put a piece of paper down the crack on the inside next to the windshield and let it sit for a while. If it comes out wet, you know the rest.
  13. Verify that the A/C breakers are properly labeled.
  14. Look for leaks in the compartments behind the covers for the 12v breakers
  15. Look for leaks in the compartment behind the cover where the battery combiner is.
  16. Pull screws on the outside edge bottom edge of any Schwintek slide. If they are corroded then you probably have a leak at the corner or along the edge. If it has been raining they will be wet and paper pushed up the hole will come out wet.
  17. Watch
  18. Make sure the Generator has been run once a month every month for 1 or 2 hours at 50% load. If not it may have a shortened life. If it doesn't have more than 200 hours on it expect problems.
  19. Make sure the fuse from the battery to the inverter is in good shape no internal corrosion and that there is no looseness in the connectors.
  20. Heat a tank of cold water in the water heater with the electric heat only and verify that the propane system never comes on during while it is electric only heating.
  21. Connected to city water, drain the fresh tank and leave the drain open. Verify water is not leaking back through the pump into the fresh water tank. This seems innocuous but if it is it will fill the fresh tank and it will overflow continually wasting water and frequently wetting you patio area.

This is all the trickier stuff I can think of I'm sure there is a lot more I'm forgetting. RV's can be so entertaining ;-)

BTW we would love for our coach to be perfect but we have thoroughly enjoyed it and the problems haven't interfered with us to much.
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Old 10-25-2021, 08:28 PM   #7
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thanks so much for all the info.
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