2015 Atwood water heater help

[JSS37F]

I have a 2015 Adventurer with a Atwood GCH10A-4E water heater. The LP function ceased to work last fall so I used the electric feature only since then. I did last fall take the thermocouple out and sand off the sooted end hoping that was the issue.


We left last week on a 3 week 2500 mile trip. I am currently in central Texas and 2 days ago the electric part of the water heater failed. (We have used it for the last 4 days prior to its failing). So I tried the LP function once the electric heater died and it didnt light off or try to ignite. So 2 days ago I ordered a complete rebuild kit.


I got the kit last night and replaced the circuit board, thermostat kit (both censors) with a new brown wire, igniter and fuse. Got everything put back together and still nothing in either electric or LP.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DRCWT6QZ...fed_asin_title


I have checked and the circuit breaker is on for the water heater and was not tripped but I did recycle it to make sure. On my display panel when I select either or both water heater switches (ELE and LP) to the ON position there is no draw on the meter meaning theres no power going to the water heater.



Now I am currently on 30 amp power at my wifes Aunts house. I did start the generator and it was supplying 50 amps just in case there was some sort of load shedding etc and I did turn off the AC just to make sure. The only thing I havent addressed so far is the two coil packs sitting behind the gas valve assembly that plug into the high limit switch.


So with all that does anyone have an idea what may be causing my issues that I may have over looked? TIA Jim

[Old-Biscuit]

Both Electric and Propane functions use 12VDC to operate

Here is the wiring diagram for your WH


Check that you have 12VDC on both sides of that thermal fuse (Brown wire to thermostat)


Electric has to have 12VDC on YELLOW wire to the DC Relay which when closed allows 120VAC to the electric element (Relay/Element on backside of WH Tank Under the protective cover)



Gas valve solenoids
Both have to energize to open the gas valve (48 ohms when tested individually)
Red wire......12VDC to/thru ECO to gas valve solenoids

Spark ignitor should be firing (click Click Click) even if gas valve doesn't open
*Spark wire should have continuity

2A fuse on circuit board ---check if blown

[JSS37F]

Well the front end of the heater has been mostly replaced and still no heat in either LP or ELE. I dont have a multi meter with me so I ordered a relay which should be here tomorrow. We will see if that gets either one working. Thanks for the help OB and I will report back when the mystery is solved.

[Old-Biscuit]

Remove the thermal fuse and plug the brown wire directly onto the T-stat terminal
Then try Propane or Electric.
If it works w/o the thermal fuse it ho 190as blown......it blows when exposed to 190*F temp from flame blowback (dirty burner or combustion chamber)


Relay is ONLY for the Electric function......nothing to do with Propane

**Multimeter is RV'rs best friend

[JSS37F]

Were here for another 4 days till moving again so tomorrow I will be at Ace and pick up a multi meter. I have one at each house and now I will also keep one in the motorhome. I just watched a few videos that showed how to track down the voltages and check continuity for the propane side. At this point if I can get either side working the wife would be very happy. ;-)

[Old-Biscuit]

Remove the thermal fuse..........happy wife tonight

[Duner]

My guess is that in the process of changing out the parts, you accidently popped the +12V fuse that provides power to the water heater.

I would not continue to throw parts at the problem until you get a meter and measure 12 coming in. Not sure where you find the fuse panel on your coach, but that's where you need to focus.

Good Luck,
Bill

[JSS37F]

I tried that last night and nothing. This morning I went and got a multi meter. Started checking continuity and voltages. My old thermal fuse was bad. Got everything installed and still nothing. Started checking all the new parts and low and behold the 2 amp fuse in the new circuit board was bad. So I used the old one and it lit off.


I still have a problem on the electrical side. My unit lives below the floor so I have to access it from underneath and behind. Its obvious someones already been in there since the access panel with the hot water pipes from the engine (what a stupid idea!) has it all goobered up with silicone caulk. I got the access door off and am inside there now and the relay is buried in a hard to get at place. The ground point looks a tad bit corroded so I need to go get some sand paper and I will see if that does it and then check the yellow wire next. I have a relay coming so if need be I will swap that out too.


Thanks again for the help. With LP working the wife can now take a hot shower again. That makes my life alot easier.

[JSS37F]

Bill I have a 20 amp circuit breaker that is the power source for the ELE side of the water heater. I will check the heating element after I get the ground cleaned and make sure there 120v going to it. If there isnt then on to the yellow wire on the relay to see if its there. I am assuming right now its a bad relay. If theres a 12V fuse I dont know where its at.

[Duner]

No, it's probably not a bad relay. I thought I had a bad relay behind the water heater and it turned out to be a loose connection on the green wire from the relay coil to the grounding stud welded to the back of the tank. In my case the nut was loose. In your case it could be corroded or loose.
You will need a bright flashlight and maybe a mirror to see what going on back there.

[JSS37F]

I think you may be right Bill. I spent a few hours trying to figure out how to handle that mess in there where you cant see it without a mirror and can barely feel it. The green grounding wire your talking about I believe was no longer attached either. I put that on the other post with another nut so its all tight now and grounded. I ended up cutting the wires and re did them all without that Large black plastic box in there. The relay was only $7 so no big deal either way but I will put the new one in there. Since my water heater is up to temp its hard to do any tests on the electric end since it isnt calling for heat. But I will know in short order once its all buttoned up if I fixed the ELE end or not.

[JSS37F]

OB


I now have LP water heater side working. So I am now onto the ELE side of things. In reading your past post you indicated that I should have 12V to the yellow line on the relay, is this and accurate statement? Is the 12V only there when there is a need to heat the tank? I ask this because my tank is up to temp with the LP working. When my new relay comes in tonight I am going to install it. I guess at that time I will be able to shut the LP side off and leave the ELE on and see if it maintains the heated water. I assume when its heating the water I should be able to see a draw on the display inside the coach? So for right now I can turn the ELE selector to ON and I have no voltage on the yellow wire going to the relay. TIA

[Duner]

Originally Posted by JSS37F

OB


I now have LP water heater side working. So I am now onto the ELE side of things. In reading your past post you indicated that I should have 12V to the yellow line on the relay, is this and accurate statement? Is the 12V only there when there is a need to heat the tank? I ask this because my tank is up to temp with the LP working. When my new relay comes in tonight I am going to install it. I guess at that time I will be able to shut the LP side off and leave the ELE on and see if it maintains the heated water. I assume when its heating the water I should be able to see a draw on the display inside the coach? So for right now I can turn the ELE selector to ON and I have no voltage on the yellow wire going to the relay. TIA

You need to confirm that +12 is coming to the board assy on WHT #2 looking at the schematic in reply #2 above.

[JSS37F]

Yes have 13.5 at the white wire.