Community Forums

DeanM2 · 06-21-2022, 12:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim_HiTek

Just a suggestion that you tighten the nuts so they are just 'snug'. That way there's some give and slop so driving or frame twisting up and down curbs won't promote fiberglass cracking.

I put a stainless washer under the stainless button head bolt. And then I put a rubber washer under that. The hope is that the rubber washer will provide a bit of flex to prevent any damage to the paint/fiberglass. And as you suggested, the bolts are only "snug".

Note: As I was doing this repair I realized that the rubber stop on the back of one side of the cover was not properly preventing the cover from bouncing around when closed. The mounting for the stop was not properly installed by Winnebago and could not be adjusted to perform its intended function. I had to modify the stop to perform correctly.

R&B · 06-28-2022, 04:29 PM

The same thing happened to me on my motor home. I was told to use 3m 02619. It worked great.

cruizerEd · 06-29-2022, 04:42 AM

Typically I'll use west marine 105 2 part epoxy thickened with west marine 404 filler until it will not run. This will bond to metal and fiberglass. I try to remove the material Winnebago used down to the glass and the paint on the bonded surface. Since this isn't a fitting that you life depends on you don't have to go to the nth degree to prepare the surface. If you want to go all out you could even glass the parts together.

I haven't used 5200 in these application but I have used it and it is excellent. It is white, it is not UV stable, and it is thin. On a vertical surface your going to have to keep it in place and make sure it doesn't run on anything you don't want 5200 on forever. Even on horizontal surfaces it runs almost like paint would and you need to mask very carefully. IMHO 5200 fast cure is even thinner than normal 5200. Some people say you can refrigerate it to get it stiff but I'd test that first. Seems to me it would warm up and run out before curing.

youracman · 06-29-2022, 07:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by R&B

The same thing happened to me on my motor home. I was told to use 3m 02619. It worked great.

Searched online but neither Google nor 3M seem to know about this product. Maybe discontinued or maybe a typo?

NCC-1701A · 07-13-2022, 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rk911

What about JB Weld?

JB Weld works well in this application. I bought a used 2007 Journey and in my inspection found loose areas on the back cap. The dealer used JB Weld and I never had an issue with the repair.

bandirector · 11-30-2022, 08:21 AM

Just got off the phone with Winnebago Customer Support. They use a commercial product called Plexus MA310. I found the retail version of it here https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZY7KMWD...roduct_details

FIRE UP · 11-30-2022, 10:26 AM

In the past,
I've had at least two break-away areas/brackets on the front of our '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the CAT C-7 330HP. Both were metal to fiberglass. On the first one, I cleaned and sanded with some seriously rough sandpaper to clean things up and roughen the surface. I then used some *Marine Tex* I had hanging around. That stuff is SERIOUSLY tough stuff.

The second break-away I had, I again cleaned and ground up the surfaces with some 40 or 60 grit sandpaper for a better adherence. This time, since I had no more Marine Tex, I used some Gorilla Construction Adhesive that I purchased from Lowes. It takes just a tad longer to cure than the Marine Tex but, after it's cured, the whole front cap of the coach is gonna have to be torn off before that Gorilla joint will be affected. That too is some outstandingly tough stuff.
Scott

rgvtexan · 11-30-2022, 04:15 PM

Drill a few holes in the metal piece. It lets the glue ooze through and strengthens the bond.

theoldwizard · 11-30-2022, 07:40 PM

Not a fan of 5200. When it fails it is EXTREMELY difficult to remove what is left.

3M makes a whole line of automotive panel bond adhesives. Check their website. As others have said the surfaces must be SUPER CLEAN and smooth. A light sanding and maybe a wipe down with acetone. Pay close attention to the recommended temperature and time for curing.

theoldwizard · 12-01-2022, 08:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FIRE UP

I then used some *Marine Tex* I had hanging around. That stuff is SERIOUSLY tough stuff.

I have used Marine Tex in the past. It cures to a "hard as a rock" consistency. I can't report on the long term durability, but CLEANLINESS before applying any adhesive is always important.

bigb56 · 12-01-2022, 08:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theoldwizard

I have used Marine Tex in the past. It cures to a "hard as a rock" consistency. I can't report on the long term durability, but CLEANLINESS before applying any adhesive is always important.

I wanted something with a bit of flex when I fixed the brackets on my front nose piece which is a reason to use a product the does not get rigid. The 5200 did that for me.