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Old 07-15-2021, 11:57 AM   #1
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Adhesive for Front Cap to Sidewall Repair

During a recent trip, we discovered a significant leak over the driver's seat during a rainstorm. I suspected the seam between the roof and front cap. Once we arrived home and I had a chance to get up there, I discovered that the front cap had detached from the sidewall above the driver's window. That created a gap at the end of the rain gutter that pretty much funneled water into the coach.

I need an adhesive to rebond the cap to the sidewall. I originally thought to use 3M 5200, but I read that it's too runny to use on a vertical surface. My next thought was Sikaflex 221, which is apparently a thicker material.

I have no experience with either material - just going by what I've read over the years. Any suggestions from the group here?
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Old 07-15-2021, 06:40 PM   #2
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Look up AZ expert on the U tube, he has a lot of video on this topic, one in peticular.

Regardless, I had same issue before I found him and research showed a few screws and problem was in order. Then I saw his video with a few screws and problem used.

Worked great for me. I also cut my gutter back an inch to get it draining away from the cap
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Old 07-16-2021, 08:34 AM   #3
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My local RV repair man suggested using the Sika product for the same problem you have. Boy what a great product, its very tacky but does smooth out. Has held up for three years not.
https://usa.sika.com/en/industry/tra...-sealants.html
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Old 07-17-2021, 09:13 AM   #4
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Thanks for the feedback!
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Old 07-17-2021, 09:23 AM   #5
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If you follow that so called experts (AZexpert that is)advice he will have you using silicone adhesive
instead of the proper stuff.
Steer clear of that channel imnsho.
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Old 07-17-2021, 02:44 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by inthepines View Post
If you follow that so called experts (AZexpert that is)advice he will have you using silicone adhesive
instead of the proper stuff.
Steer clear of that channel imnsho.

If you mean by the nuflex 311, yes that is a silicon. That is what WBGO used and uses at the factory vs Dicor. He has a video where someone used Dicor on a WBGO roof to re seal and it did not stick.

Other than that he does not use silicon, not that I have seen.
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Old 07-18-2021, 08:49 PM   #7
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Use an adhesive seal combo substance, NOT just silicone caulk !!
You could also add a appropriate Stainless steel bolt/screw for mechanical strength along with the adhesive, it it happens once it can happen again, a screw may relieve stress so adhesive will not give out.

GL!
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Old 07-20-2021, 06:16 PM   #8
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I had a severe leak in that area in 2007. All I had on hand was black silicone caulk/ adhesive. I filled the gap with it & speed the leak. The factory circle it out that summer& said no reason to mess with it. Curse silicone all you want, but my emergency repair is still in fine shape 14 yrs later.
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Old 07-21-2021, 03:28 AM   #9
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Each of us have to chose who we follow/believe and for me, AZ Expert is the guy. Not because I follow him blindly, but because what he says, and does, makes sense.

https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...m_medium=email
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Old 07-21-2021, 07:27 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Papa Foxtrot View Post
During a recent trip, we discovered a significant leak over the driver's seat during a rainstorm. I suspected the seam between the roof and front cap. Once we arrived home and I had a chance to get up there, I discovered that the front cap had detached from the sidewall above the driver's window. That created a gap at the end of the rain gutter that pretty much funneled water into the coach.

I need an adhesive to rebond the cap to the sidewall. I originally thought to use 3M 5200, but I read that it's too runny to use on a vertical surface. My next thought was Sikaflex 221, which is apparently a thicker material.

I have no experience with either material - just going by what I've read over the years. Any suggestions from the group here?
The sealant callout sheet from Winnebago requires an Urethane Adhesive on those joints usually Manus Bond. If the joint has failed though often the problem will be water getting in from above and migrating down. A common source is the seals behind the front clearance lights which have a foam rubber gasket that deteriorates over time and blows away in the wind. Sealing below where the water is leaking out won't fix the root cause and may contribute to the steel windshield frame and roll cage being compromised by rust which can result in a cracked windshield and fasteners coming loose.

Most silicone caulks do not have anywhere near the adhesive properties required to keep the joint sealed afterwards and the residue they leave behind will usually prevent the correct adhesive from bonding properly afterwards.

Be mindful that Urethane Adhesives such as Manus Bond have a short application window after being manufactured which is around 9 months so be careful about the manufacturing dates or you can end up with adhesive that's already expired and don't purchase more than you can use before that application window has passed.
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Old 07-21-2021, 07:59 AM   #11
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��*♂️ everyone should do the research and not blindly listen to so called experts.
Just because an rv manufacturer used it doesn't means it isn't junk. They push out crap every day and put lipstick on it put 6 figures on it and let you deal with it.
Use it, it isn't mine, it has no bearing on my life.
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