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Old 11-09-2018, 05:22 PM   #1
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Bathroom Floor access panel has dropped about 1/2 inch

Does anyone know how to open this floor access panel so I can fix the 1/2 drop. It is no longer flush with the rest of the floor.

Better yet does anyone know why it might become un-flush all of a sudden after 2 years??

I have a 2016 Winnebago Grand Tour.
Thanks.
Attachment 225468Attachment 225469
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Old 11-09-2018, 05:35 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdjackson56 View Post
Does anyone know how to open this floor access panel so I can fix the 1/2 drop. It is no longer flush with the rest of the floor.

Better yet does anyone know why it might become un-flush all of a sudden after 2 years??

I have a 2016 Winnebago Grand Tour.
Thanks.
Attachment 225468Attachment 225469
Update: I found the "key" to unlock the panel and it appears jammed. I don't want to twist too hard for fear of breaking it off.
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Old 11-09-2018, 06:31 PM   #3
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There's a lip around the forward 3 sides that the cover rests on - in the back it fits into a 'u' channel lying on its side. The key turns about 180 degrees to unlock on both sides. I use suction cups to get a good grip and then it can be a real tug to get the rear edge from under the cabinet and then lift to open.

Your attachment doesn't open to a pic or diagram. Which side of the cover has dropped? First step is to get the cover open to see what's happened.
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Old 11-10-2018, 06:48 AM   #4
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Your description sound like what I have. The part of the floor panel that dropped is the front side closest to the bathroom door where the Key fits in. I'm going to get a floor suction tool today to see if I can lift it some so the key will turn easier. I'm assuming the lock mechanism is binding so it won't turn easily. Then I can figure out what's happening underneath.
Thanks for the quick response.
TJ
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Old 11-20-2018, 08:21 AM   #5
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Just a follow up.

I got the floor suction tool from Harbor Freight. I was able to lift up the panel a little. That also allow me to unlock the panel. I'm assuming there is only a lock on the front of the panel and not one on the rear too (under the vanity). Didn't want to lift too hard yet as it looks like the rear part of the hatch goes under the vanity .. but I don't know how far. Trying to figure out if I need to remove the bottom panels/frame of the vanity to get the hatch out. Also climbed up underneath the coach to see the panel/hatch from the bottom side and all looks good - no problem of the panel falling through. It seems that the hatch slid back in the "C" channel and off the front lip a little causing the 1/2 inch drop in the front... but not sure. More diagnosing to do before I start dismantling the bottom of the vanity.
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Old 11-25-2018, 07:44 PM   #6
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Follow up on the floor hatch removal and determination as to why it dropped about 1/2 to 1 inch...

First, What a poor design on the location of the hatch. My hatch extended about 2 inches under the bathroom vanity. So in order to get the hatch removed I had to remove a front- lower panel of the vanity. Well, that was a "cluster" as the panel is attached by 6 screws from the rear side of the vanity with "NO" access to loosen them. That meant prying off the panel which I would not recommend for the faith of heart. I damaged the panel a little but have been able to fix it to where you be able to tell unless you look very closely. I also had to remove the wall corner trim board by the shower stall as it didn't allow for any room needed to remove the floor hatch also.

"A VERY VERY POOR DESIGN AND THE ENGINEER SHOULD BE FIRED"

Next my hatch extended about a 1/2 under the shower stall - again a poor design. Also note that the plastic trim around the hatch is stapled to the sides of the hatch so don't try to remove it thinking you'll get a little wiggle room to remove the hatch. Also as mentioned earlier there is a hatch lock that you must turn about 3/4 of a turn counter clockwise to unlock the hatch. Mine was jammed because of the "fallen" hatch.

Once I was able to get the hatch lifted out (with lots of tugging) and brut strength I immediate saw the problem.

What a another "cluster".... There is a metal brace that the hatch sits on that is supposed to make it flush with the rest of the floor. Well, my metal brace was too low so they (Winnebago manufacturing) glued and stacked about 20 scrape metal "shims/pieces" and supplemented them with additional plastic pieces that I guess were laying around the shop floor. Over time the glue loosen and the stacked pieces fell apart and hence the hatch fell inward/downward 1 inch.

"SO IN ADDITION TO THE ENGINEER BEING FIRED SO ALSO SHOULD THE ASSEMBLER THAT DID THIS"

I removed all the pieces, went to Lowes and bought a 1x1x36 square steel tube (cutting the length to 35 inches to fit) and inserted it. It fit nicely and tight and made the floor perfectly flush. A $14 repair to do the job right.

I'm in the process of putting the vanity panel back in place and may add hinges so that if you ever need engine access via the hatch, it will be much easier.

I've generally been very happy with my 2016 Grand Tour and the support from Winnebago but "this" quality of work was just unacceptable. I'll be writing Winnebago about this. I can't say enough good things about the Winnebago Service Administration Department for their post sale support, but for a $450K coach this was very poor manufacturing.

I can't image how bad the result would have been had I taken it to a service center or required engine work done that needed hatch access.

I have pics if folks are interested. It's interesting to note how the hatch lock looks from underneath and the subfloor under the tile is about 1.5-2 inches thick (Plywood).
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Old 11-26-2018, 04:45 PM   #7
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Yes, it is really stupid how Winnebago designs these engine access panels. I have two of them that are carpeted in the bedroom. The manufacturer installed the rear clothes closet on top of the rear panel, overlapping by about 2", making it impossible to lift the panel out. I started to try to take the closet apart, but discovered that it was easier to hack out the carpet on top of the panel where the closet was sitting on it. This provided enough clearance to tilt the panel and pull it out. The carpet removal is not visible because it is under the closet.
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Old 11-27-2018, 06:36 PM   #8
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I just had to vent
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