Bedroom Window Leak & Hydraulic Leak, Rear Ladder Issues

[ChristoRV]

Seems each time I solve one problem, a few more like to pop up...

1. 02 Adventurer, 32V, bedroom slide out front facing window. When it rains I get a small little stream of water on the inside, left bottom of window. The seals seems all good around the frame to wall inside and outside, but we all know looks can be deceiving... can water come in through where the seal meets the window glass?


2. After reading a few threads on here regarding the 02's and 03's having hose and fitting issues and recalls from HWH (see my other thread on my hydraulic leaks), the one that remains and HWH acknowledges is the fittings and hoses in the bedroom - what is the trick to get to those fittings? Can I get to them by removing the bed and frame from inside? Do I have to have the slide actually removed? Anyone know? HWH said they will pay to have it fixed and provide the hoses and fittings, issue is, here I am in RV central and no one has the talent to fix or address this, so I may have to DIY.... anyone have insight on this?

3. Rear ladder- see attached pictures. Seems PO musta hit a tree or something fell on it... bent the crap out of one side, but it pulled away from the roof. Creating a hole. I patched it with some marine grade sealant/glue and then reapplied some LAP stuff, but I would like it repaired. Seems the ladder is riveted into the walls and roof? Anyone ever had to replace their ladder? Is this a DIY or should I call a pro?

TIA for any help and advice on these three issues...

[Ray,IN]

#1, make sure the "weep hols" at the bottom outside are clear of debris, their purpose is to prevent water backup, which rsults in leaks.


#2, I haven't a clue. You lose nothing but time calling Stewarts Services in Elkart, IN.


#3, pop-rivets may be drilled out with a bit just the size of the rivet hole where the installation stud came from.
For instance, the small 3/16" dia. pop-rivets require a 1/8" drill bit. The bit only cuts out the expanded part on the back-side.

[ChristoRV]

Originally Posted by Ray,IN

#1, make sure the "weep hols" at the bottom outside are clear of debris, their purpose is to prevent water backup, which rsults in leaks.

Ahh, I will check those! Thank you.

Originally Posted by Ray,IN

#2, I haven't a clue. You lose nothing but time calling Stewarts Services in Elkart, IN.

He won't touch it, I asked him a few times, I had him replace a jack and fix the holding tank... I need to find someone who will dive in...

Originally Posted by Ray,IN

#3, pop-rivets may be drilled out with a bit just the size of the rivet hole where the installation stud came from.
For instance, the small 3/16" dia. pop-rivets require a 1/8" drill bit. The bit only cuts out the expanded part on the back-side.

Gotcha - the rest of the ladder supports are all SS screws, only the roof is pop riveted... now I just gotta find a ladder replacement that matches my current one, maybe a call into Winnebago parts...

[donr103]

To replace the ladder will get expensive.. and you could take it off yourself and find a tubing shop or wielding shop.. that would get expensive.. or in my humble opinion.. you could drill out rivets and clean up area.. then get 3 or 4in square piece of aluminum plate.. and slide plate under ladder.. then screw plate down plate into good wood.. carefully.. then screw ladder down to plate . and then.. use eternabond tape all around and dicore next.. just live with it.. because it's on top.. and no one will see that.. and does not affect structure.. but here is the catch.. I bet po let it go and roof is now rotten under that place.. so to really factory fix.. $$$$ the rubber must be peeled back and everything replaced. Oh.. I don't use boat stuff on rubber roof..
Good luck and keep us posted

[ChristoRV]

Originally Posted by donr103

To replace the ladder will get expensive.. and you could take it off yourself and find a tubing shop or wielding shop.. that would get expensive.. or in my humble opinion.. you could drill out rivets and clean up area.. then get 3 or 4in square piece of aluminum plate.. and slide plate under ladder.. then screw plate down plate into good wood.. carefully.. then screw ladder down to plate . and then.. use eternabond tape all around and dicore next.. just live with it.. because it's on top.. and no one will see that.. and does not affect structure.. but here is the catch.. I bet po let it go and roof is now rotten under that place.. so to really factory fix.. $$$$ the rubber must be peeled back and everything replaced. Oh.. I don't use boat stuff on rubber roof..
Good luck and keep us posted

The ladder itself ranges in pricing from $200-$900, which seems odd...

I can live with it for sure, agreed, do not care about the cosmetics, but I need to make sure functionally is ok, and sound... make sure it is waterproof and weatherproof, etc.

Do agree a new plate will be needed, the roof is OK, I checked it, it is a wood/fiberglass combo, no rubber.

[donr103]

Any big box hardware store will have aluminum plate.. I like aluminum.. never rusts.. and easy to cut with jig saw and metal blade.. file off burrs and you can stack them to get the space where bent completely taken up.. really you can use hand hack saw.. so you are looking at maybe 50 bucks total if you have saw a tape..
Don't use boat stuff on rv.. dicore and eternabond tape.. you need to keep extra of those on rv anyways..
Good luck and keep us posted

[donr103]

Sorry.. again.. in 1st picture.. dicore is what was used on other side of ladder.. and under the ladder where rear cap meets roof.. see how neat the factory did it? That is what you need you repair to look like.. after adding plates.. and tape.. if you feel certain sub roof structure is ok.. you can.. maybe get away with 2in square plate.. you get the idea..

Now over the window.. where you say you have a leak.. check and see if there is a good bead of clear silicon caulk over top of window and running about 4in down the sides.. here you can use boat stuff.. check all the windows.. they should have a good bead of clear silicon caulk over top of window and frame.. that is normal maintenance.. don't do window sides other than 4in and don't do bottom.. of window.. start with leaking window see if that does it..
Could you extend the side and send us a picture of outside top of window from the roof looking down? And picture of the leak inside.. and picture of the slide roof where it meets side wall over the top of leaking window.. because many times.. you can think window is leaking.. but what is actually leaking is over top of window at top of roof.. where there is a gutter and rubber roofing on top of slide..

If you can post pictures of HWH leak.. better opinions will follow
Good luck and keep us posted

[ChristoRV]

Originally Posted by donr103

Any big box hardware store will have aluminum plate.. I like aluminum.. never rusts.. and easy to cut with jig saw and metal blade.. file off burrs and you can stack them to get the space where bent completely taken up.. really you can use hand hack saw.. so you are looking at maybe 50 bucks total if you have saw a tape..
Don't use boat stuff on rv.. dicore and eternabond tape.. you need to keep extra of those on rv anyways..
Good luck and keep us posted

Ordered some eternabond tape... I need to look up the dicore, have not heard of this...

[ChristoRV]

Originally Posted by donr103

Sorry.. again.. in 1st picture.. dicore is what was used on other side of ladder.. and under the ladder where rear cap meets roof.. see how neat the factory did it? That is what you need you repair to look like.. after adding plates.. and tape.. if you feel certain sub roof structure is ok.. you can.. maybe get away with 2in square plate.. you get the idea..

Now over the window.. where you say you have a leak.. check and see if there is a good bead of clear silicon caulk over top of window and running about 4in down the sides.. here you can use boat stuff.. check all the windows.. they should have a good bead of clear silicon caulk over top of window and frame.. that is normal maintenance.. don't do window sides other than 4in and don't do bottom.. of window.. start with leaking window see if that does it..
Could you extend the side and send us a picture of outside top of window from the roof looking down? And picture of the leak inside.. and picture of the slide roof where it meets side wall over the top of leaking window.. because many times.. you can think window is leaking.. but what is actually leaking is over top of window at top of roof.. where there is a gutter and rubber roofing on top of slide..

If you can post pictures of HWH leak.. better opinions will follow
Good luck and keep us posted

I checked the window... made sure drain ports were clean, also took off the window treatment decorations from inside and retightened all the mounting screws... I shot water at the window for a few mins, no leaks... BUT your other comment about checking the roof of slide out etc raised my eyebrows... I am wondering if the leak may be from somewhere else... I will get some pictures and post.

Thank you for all your suggestions and help with this.

The ladder I am going to a few salvage yards, see if I can find a pair of poles or one that match what I have since all the other hardware is good....

[ChristoRV]

Originally Posted by donr103

Now over the window.. where you say you have a leak.. check and see if there is a good bead of clear silicon caulk over top of window and running about 4in down the sides.. here you can use boat stuff.. check all the windows.. they should have a good bead of clear silicon caulk over top of window and frame.. that is normal maintenance.. don't do window sides other than 4in and don't do bottom.. of window.. start with leaking window see if that does it..
Could you extend the side and send us a picture of outside top of window from the roof looking down? And picture of the leak inside.. and picture of the slide roof where it meets side wall over the top of leaking window.. because many times.. you can think window is leaking.. but what is actually leaking is over top of window at top of roof.. where there is a gutter and rubber roofing on top of slide..

Here are some pictures of the window in question. No bead of calk - just the factory seal (black gooey stuff) is still there... But I did not realize that we should add some additional sealant over the tops and down the sides about 1/2 way...

[ChristoRV]

Originally Posted by ChristoRV

Seems each time I solve one problem, a few more like to pop up...

1. 02 Adventurer, 32V, bedroom slide out front facing window. When it rains I get a small little stream of water on the inside, left bottom of window. The seals seems all good around the frame to wall inside and outside, but we all know looks can be deceiving... can water come in through where the seal meets the window glass?


2. After reading a few threads on here regarding the 02's and 03's having hose and fitting issues and recalls from HWH (see my other thread on my hydraulic leaks), the one that remains and HWH acknowledges is the fittings and hoses in the bedroom - what is the trick to get to those fittings? Can I get to them by removing the bed and frame from inside? Do I have to have the slide actually removed? Anyone know? HWH said they will pay to have it fixed and provide the hoses and fittings, issue is, here I am in RV central and no one has the talent to fix or address this, so I may have to DIY.... anyone have insight on this?

3. Rear ladder- see attached pictures. Seems PO musta hit a tree or something fell on it... bent the crap out of one side, but it pulled away from the roof. Creating a hole. I patched it with some marine grade sealant/glue and then reapplied some LAP stuff, but I would like it repaired. Seems the ladder is riveted into the walls and roof? Anyone ever had to replace their ladder? Is this a DIY or should I call a pro?

TIA for any help and advice on these three issues...

I am going to add a #4, throwing this out there - I just had my awning replaced, very happy with new awning... previous awning, old one, and now this one, when it rains it leaks and drips down where the gutter joint is over above the radio and where the fridge vent is.... do folks caulk the awning at the gutter? Is there a trick so water doesn't travel down the awning slit and then drip down?

[donr103]

Guess I should add.. you caulk windows on exterior of frame.. not inside.. so by the looks of your pictures.. you are just having problems with side window.. that is where I would start.. as to #4 I would need pictures.. sorry..
Good luck and keep us posted

[ChristoRV]

Originally Posted by donr103

Guess I should add.. you caulk windows on exterior of frame.. not inside.. so by the looks of your pictures.. you are just having problems with side window.. that is where I would start.. as to #4 I would need pictures.. sorry..
Good luck and keep us posted

Understood, outside for the caulk...

Yup, just the one side window on the slide...

#4 - ignore here, but started a new thread here - https://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/awn...ml#post6303936

[ChristoRV]

UPDATES:

Originally Posted by ChristoRV

Seems each time I solve one problem, a few more like to pop up...

1. 02 Adventurer, 32V, bedroom slide out front facing window. When it rains I get a small little stream of water on the inside, left bottom of window. The seals seems all good around the frame to wall inside and outside, but we all know looks can be deceiving... can water come in through where the seal meets the window glass?

This has been resolved/fixed - cleaned drain ports and tightened window frame screws. Leak is gone. Just had rain here last 3 days, non stop drizzle etc, not a drop!

Originally Posted by ChristoRV

2. After reading a few threads on here regarding the 02's and 03's having hose and fitting issues and recalls from HWH (see my other thread on my hydraulic leaks), the one that remains and HWH acknowledges is the fittings and hoses in the bedroom - what is the trick to get to those fittings? Can I get to them by removing the bed and frame from inside? Do I have to have the slide actually removed? Anyone know? HWH said they will pay to have it fixed and provide the hoses and fittings, issue is, here I am in RV central and no one has the talent to fix or address this, so I may have to DIY.... anyone have insight on this?

Scheduled another trip to HWH in October. I will have disassembled the bed/frame down to floor, will drive out there and they will address the hoses and cylinder etc. 3rd trip, but the folks are nice, ask for Ashley, she always takes good care of me.

Originally Posted by ChristoRV

3. Rear ladder- see attached pictures. Seems PO musta hit a tree or something fell on it... bent the crap out of one side, but it pulled away from the roof. Creating a hole. I patched it with some marine grade sealant/glue and then reapplied some LAP stuff, but I would like it repaired. Seems the ladder is riveted into the walls and roof? Anyone ever had to replace their ladder? Is this a DIY or should I call a pro?

Wow, ya'd think I was ordering nukes... first the shipping prices on these is ridiculous, and the cost on these before ship is $400.... so I ordered a replica from Amazon, $152, I will also take mine off and strip it down for parts. I will add a new aluminum plate, larger, for the one that has the damaged the roof and make sure it is sealed well. I ordered all the tapes and goo and rollers etc so I have that now too for any future issues...

Today felt good... since it was raining anyway, I cleaned the awning, I cleaned the roof, and I cleaned the entire outside of the RV. She is all sparkly and pretty. My roof looks amazing, and now that the awning is clean, as soon as it dries I will fix the new 3 tears in my new awning from a falling soaked dead branch... it never end does it?