Can low water pressure city line at campground cause city line check valve issues?

[rrbhat]

I had a mobile RV tech come by my campsite to flush my water heater on my Itasca Sunova Class A Gas 2004 motorhome 31'.

The campground faucet came rigged with a lever valve as the faucet would not turn off otherwise. The tech did not notice this and assumed the water did turn off when the water heater was drained but it kept going which is when I turned off the campground faucet using the lever valve. Didn't seem like a big deal to either of us at the time.

Once the water heater was cleaned and city line turned back on, I'm guessing the tech didn't turn it on fully so the water pressure was not high enough (the campground faucet wasn't turned up high enough) and although all the faucets worked inside RV as did toilet flush, once I unhooked my RV from the city line, there was a very small continuous trickle of water in all of my RV faucets inside (bathroom, kitchen sink, etc.) and it did not fully stop unless I turned the respective faucets off.

When I put my RV in storage parking, I noticed the city line inlet pipe brass fitting had a slow drip no matter how much I tried to tighten or the white plastic check valve. I turned the brass water pressure pipe fitting upside down to stop the drip for now. I will be heading to another campground on Sunday and will have time to work on this then. There is no water leak inside the RV. Wondering if I can just get the city line valve working once I hook up to a campground faucet turned up to its usual pressure. There is a water pressure valve on the brass pipe fitting, so no worries there.

I just hope the full pressure will get the city line check valve working again and will stop the faucets inside the RV from having a trickle once unplugged from city line? Or could this issue be something to do with the water heater bypass valve that the tech opened to flush out the water heater?

Does anyone have a diagram/picture of what the set-up under the bed should look like when using the water heater (specifically the 3 valves)?

Thank you kindly,
R&R

[MrMark52]

Don’t know your specific setup - but water faucets don’t depend on water pressure to seal off and not drip.
If a fixture drips, depending on the style, it wipe either has bad internal seal washers, or a bad cartridge. R&R or replacement of the faucet is the only fix.

There is a check valve at your freshwater fill connection - and they can get trash in them, especially if a water filter isn’t used in conjunction with your fill hose.
Allowing a full flow of water to occur through the water system (open all the faucets inside of your coach with the freshwater faucet and hose connected and fully on) should hopefully flush any junk through the check valve.
If that doesn’t clear it, then R&R or replacement may be necessary (although typically it’s really no big deal unless you fill with freshwater, disconnect your hose, and use you pump to provide water to the coach).

[dbircky]

Flushing the hot water tank shouldok have dislodged lime, rust, or scale. Some of this may have migrated and settled in the seats. Take you faucets apart and clean the seals and seats.

In my experience, simply removing and washing the rod and draining the water heater tank (including opening the hot water outlets) will suffice. Opinion based on having the same water heater in a TT for over 20 year, and never having someone come in a clean the water heater tanks in buildings (just occasional draining).

[TandW]

Turn on your 12 volt onboard pump. Maybe that will seat the check valve.

[LETMGROW]

I have had the check valve stick a couple times after removing the hose from the city water connection. By turning the onboard water pump on then pressing the check valve in the line where your hose connects it flushes out and reseats the check valve and stops the leak. I use the eraser on a lead pencil to depress the check valve with.
If your's is damaged there are kits available to repair the check valve.

[rrbhat]

Thank you all, I decided to tackle the issue with baby steps. So, I started at the city line check valve and then delve deeper if that wasn't it. Took apart the check valve to clean out filter and jiggle button/valve. Voila! No more drip, yay! See pics attached.

Weird that so much debris can get through a city line (I just think of this as tap water but maybe it isn't?) clean/fresh water pipe... I guess I should be cleaning this filter out regularly every couple of months or so?

Also, re. my under RV bedroom mattress water pipes set-up, another owner at the Winnebago owner's online community forum sent me my RV's plumbing diagram which was incredibly useful as a visual for my entire RV:
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...d30b_plumb.pdf

Thank you again everyone!

All the best!
R&R

[MrMark52]

Trash in an approved water system is unusual - but it can happen.

Trash more likely happens at locations that use well water.

Several precautions to take as per your comment about tap water, all water in approved water system comes through the same pipes, bath, toilet, tap water -

1. At a minimum, connect a water filter at the hydrant before connecting your freshwater hose.
2. When packing up your freshwater hose, always drain the hose as best you can before coiling up, then once coiled, screw the ends together in order to seal any intrusions by critters.
3. If you get and use a filter, flip it over to drain before stowing. Take the short piece of hose used to connect the filter unit to the hydrant and attach to the outlet, sealing the filter system from critters.

[alank]

One thing not mentioned here is to airways turn the hydrant ON to flush any critters out before hooking up, otherwise anything in the hydrant gets flowed right up to your back flush valve if you don’t run a filter.