Changes you have made to your Meridian or Journey??

[Nomad Mike]

Originally Posted by SCVJeff

Curious about a few of these:
-Where will you fit a 40" without killing cabinet space?
-Composting toilet to replace the existing? Are you removing or abandoning the existing tank?
-Underneath storage tubes: got pix or can describe where they are?

The 40" TV just fit between the two cabinets but does slightly block one or the other depending on the TV position. I put it on a flexible arm and the TV stays in place by two large magnets mounted in the TV opening and a stainless steel plate mounted to the TV's lower stand mount holds it solid. If I need access to the storage, I can move the TV just slightly to the side. I only need access though for using the TV since those are where I keep my video equipment. Behind the TV is now a nice big space to put my DVD's and CD's. I can also move the TV two feet out and down to give me a much better viewing angle.

I'm not changing the black tank, better to leave that for the future in case I sell it a normal toilet can go back in. The Wynn's have a video for using the black as additional grey storage. I may try that and do have the valve needed.

The stinky storage tubes are square long tubes running from the rear right corner and go back some 10' or so. I've seen similar for sale at CW. It's in the shop getting a new HW tank now, I can get some pics when it comes back.

[Nomad Mike]

Originally Posted by ADA

I just acquired a 2007 Meridan 36g and the first project is to update the TVs. Being new at this, I am asking for advice on how to get the old ones out simply and safely.

Does the front TV back cowl come down? How are the button fasteners removed? Does the TV come out the front or back?

How does the back TV come down? Does the floor need to be removed? I have the top molding strip off, but hesitate to unscrew the brace behind it till I know where I am going.

Many thanks,

I just did my front, the rear was already done for me. Actually, the front was done too, I just didn't like what had been done. But I can tell you what you need to do to gain access, but the TV itself may have additional mounts that I am not aware of.

The bottom cowling has round tabs with center covers. Those little center covers can be popped off with a small micro type screwdriver. That will reveal the screws inside. Additionally, in both storage areas you will find two screws that hold the wooden part of this assembly in, and they too must be removed. That rear cowling along with the front lower wood front and sides will come off together. That front wood fascia is attached to the cowling internally. The top wood fascia will remain.

Once these two are off, you will see the metal box that holds your TV and it will be obvious that the TV comes out the front. At this point though your on your own, as my TV was already out.

[Nomad Mike]

Here are some pics of the TV install, I forgot to get many of the final install with the it in the viewing position. I will get those when she comes back from the shop.

The first 2 shots are how the previous owners did it.

[Nomad Mike]

The compost toilet install had one big issue, the old flange. That flange and it surrounding raised part of the old toilet did not want to come out. In fact, it looked like the black tanks inlet and flange were one and the same. I decided it should stay versus ruining the black tank. That meant building a box to raise the toilet onto. But then the toilet was too high to sit on comfortably.

The pics show how I solved this:

[Nomad Mike]

Originally Posted by ADA

I just acquired a 2007 Meridan 36g and the first project is to update the TVs. Being new at this, I am asking for advice on how to get the old ones out simply and safely.

Does the front TV back cowl come down? How are the button fasteners removed? Does the TV come out the front or back?

How does the back TV come down? Does the floor need to be removed? I have the top molding strip off, but hesitate to unscrew the brace behind it till I know where I am going.

Many thanks,

Something to be aware of that I did not know, at least on my year anyway is that the TV controls the volume. Once I put in a new TV and used the audio out to connect to the faux 5.1 surround, I had no volume control. I put in a manual knob for now, and will change the head unit soon to include an audio input. I may still not get the faux 5.1 back and might add a sound bar later.

[ADA]

Mike, that is a great head start for removal of the front TV. Thanks for the tips and pictures. I'm thinking a 32 in LED TV will fit but haven't figured out how to mount it as yet. Is yours a 12 or 120 v set?

Anyone have tips for removal of the rear TV?

[Nomad Mike]

120v - the math on the 12v doesn't make sense to me. The Samsung uses less energy than the outdated Jensen's even considering inverter use. Plus I wanted a 40".

I used this Ergotron LX, but just the one arm. I stole it from my desk. The arm can support 20# and the system 40#. I have about 19# with the TV, added plate for this TV and wood/stainless steel for the magnets to grab. I was able to tighten it down so the TV only moves when I want it to but still easily movable to my preference for viewing. No longer do I have to look up to watch TV.

Try a separate thread in the Winnebago section, I got lots of help and there are many with these same setups that have been changed.

[SCVJeff]

Originally Posted by ADA

Mike, that is a great head start for removal of the front TV. Thanks for the tips and pictures. I'm thinking a 32 in LED TV will fit but haven't figured out how to mount it as yet. Is yours a 12 or 120 v set?

Anyone have tips for removal of the rear TV?

Take a look at this forum over at RV Forums: It's specifically on TV change outs on Winnebagos: http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/ind...c,23316.0.html

[Yoders2Go]

Larry, when we did this in a previous RV, we attached the new tv stand to a sturdy piece of wood and mounted drawer sliders on the underside and on the cabinet floor. We used the space behind the tv for storage of items that we needed to have but not ready at hand. Our front tv box cabinet was square and the new tv was rectangular, so we made an open ended box to set the tv on and a DVD player or maps, etc., storage was available underneath.

Dennis, how hard was it to replace those barrels? I'm pretty handy. Is there a special tool? Did you have enough slack cable, or was it tight?

[SCVJeff]

Additions to Post #24
* MODIFIED the built-in kitchen Spice Shelves to actually work. This was accomplished simply by changing the position of the center shelf to allow normal size spice bottles to fit. Clearly whoever designed this didn't use it.

* REPLACED the ANEMIC #921 bedroom ceiling fixtures (bulbs only) and replaced them with unregulated LED arrays set for full current just over 9V. Replaced the lousy dimmer with a an adjustable V & C regulator that lives in the wall behind the dimmer pot that now controls this board. Light in the bedroom now smoothly goes from Off, to over x4 the brightness of the incandescents @ <25% the original current. when full On.

* ADDED House Battery Switch

* REBUILT the 2 switch plate in the bath that I have always hated. One switch controls the light, the other opens the vent and turns on the fan. You have to reach up and turn off the fan to leave the cover open. Doesn't work for short folk (not me). New switch panel looks exactly like the OEM except it has 3 switches: Light, Fan, Cover and labeled appropriately. Should have been this way from the factory.

[zman-az]

Couple new mods done this week on my 2014.

Removed the top dash cover above the freightliner display, found the annoying buzzer used for turn signals and alarms. There is a vent on the backside of the display. Slapped some RTV over it and now the tone is still there, just not ear piercing.

Ordered LED bulbs (they look like fuses) for the stair entry and floor in the kitchen.

Ordered extra Aux switch from Winnebago and put in the blank spot on the passenger council. Ran all the wires that illuminate the panel thru the switch. Now I can turn off the illuminated switches when boon docking. I could not find a wire diagram, but I did find the specs on the switch and was able to find how Winnie grouped the illuminated wires together and rewiring was not to bad.

[46490]

Originally Posted by zman-az

Couple new mods done this week on my 2014.

Removed the top dash cover above the freightliner display, found the annoying buzzer used for turn signals and alarms. There is a vent on the backside of the display. Slapped some RTV over it and now the tone is still there, just not ear piercing.

Ordered LED bulbs (they look like fuses) for the stair entry and floor in the kitchen.

Ordered extra Aux switch from Winnebago and put in the blank spot on the passenger council. Ran all the wires that illuminate the panel thru the switch. Now I can turn off the illuminated switches when boon docking. I could not find a wire diagram, but I did find the specs on the switch and was able to find how Winnie grouped the illuminated wires together and rewiring was not to bad.

How many bulbs are not LED in your coach - I was under the impression that all of the bulbs were LED's.

[Yoders2Go]

Wwwwooooohhhooooo, the lighted exterior door grab handle IS lighted! It's the small things that count, these days!! Pix coming, when it gets dark!
Another question: the power cord on the 4x4 HD MATRIX doesn't work, Winnebago is SO slow sending parts (2 repair sites have ordered it since April and it hasn't arrived either place yet) Does anyone know where else I might find one? It has settings on the wall end for different voltages and polarity.

[zman-az]

Originally Posted by 46490

How many bulbs are not LED in your coach - I was under the impression that all of the bulbs were LED's.

Here is what I have found on my 2014 34B

• All ext compartment lights
• Closet Light in bedroom
• Decorative lights above mirror in Bath (never use)
• Shower light (halogen)
• Exterior porch lights, both sides (halogen).
• Entry step lights and floor in galley
• Kwikee Step light
• Scones by couch (never use)
• Decorative light string above front cabinets (never use)
• Ext markerlights, tail lights ect (don't care about these)

[tnteacherguy]

Yoders2go

Pace International is the supplier for the power cord and HDMI system. They're in Minnesota.

I called, and because I was out of warranty, they sold me one. Showed up in two days. $26 with shipping.

[pmgia]

We had work done on the exterior and are very happy with the results.

I highly recommend CDI in Forest City, Iowa near Winnebago for any paint work. CDI does all Winnebago's work. I won't discuss price, but will say they are fair. Most importantly, CDI has some of the best customer service I have experienced in the RV/Motorhome industry!

Removed clear bra/adhesive
Removed ALL exterior decals, The Journey and Winnebago logos were in terrible shape, faded, cracked and bled into the paint.
Buffed out where logos were and painted where needed.
I had new logos made, W in an oval (I like the entergra coach logo) to replace the red winnebago oval (faded) I chose colors to match and contrast paint.
New Journey logo, based on the Prevost font, which I like better than Winnebagos Journey font.

I hope this link to a pdf of the before and after work.

PDF with more pics/details

[jerichorick]

Originally Posted by pmgia

We had work done on the exterior and are very happy with the results.

I highly recommend CDI in Forest City, Iowa near Winnebago for any paint work. CDI does all Winnebago's work. I won't discuss price, but will say they are fair. Most importantly, CDI has some of the best customer service I have experienced in the RV/Motorhome industry!

Removed clear bra/adhesive
Removed ALL exterior decals, The Journey and Winnebago logos were in terrible shape, faded, cracked and bled into the paint.
Buffed out where logos were and painted where needed.
I had new logos made, W in an oval (I like the entergra coach logo) to replace the red winnebago oval (faded) I chose colors to match and contrast paint.
New Journey logo, based on the Prevost font, which I like better than Winnebagos Journey font.

I hope this link to a pdf of the before and after work.

PDF with more pics/details

Attachment 102580

Looks great! Thanks for the details. Just a note of concern. Many of us have had the grill fall out of the rear door. Have you had problems with it? I suggest that you put about 4 pop rivets, one in each corner, in your grill as a safety. That new paint job needs to be protected.

Happy trails,
Rick Y

[Jupiter]

Here's something that many have probably added, but I thought I'd share my version on a 2013 36M Journey. The curbside rear storage is quite large but very shallow, about 8" deep. Lots of wasted space. Since I just bought a Magnashade I was looking for a good place to store it and it struck me that this compartment had the spare space. So, I built a 7" deep shelf to hold the shade and also hung a lower padded shelf for aerosols, etc. I found a couple pieces of angle iron in the shop to use as brackets. And I used glued dovetailed joints for strength.

oops.... two of the pics are rotated 90*

cheers,
Joopy

[dengraham]

Yoders2Go,
I am sorry I missed your question. I am currently in Fairbanks, Alaska on the Winnebago Outdoor Adventure Caravan. The barrels are a direct replacement; easy. Small 10mm wrench and screwdriver. Plenty of cable.
Order new power supply from Pace International.
We were at Denali yesterday and had snow on the mountain. I never been in snow in August....cool.

>> Dennis

[jerichorick]

Originally Posted by Jupiter

Here's something that many have probably added, but I thought I'd share my version on a 2013 36M Journey. The curbside rear storage is quite large but very shallow, about 8" deep. Lots of wasted space. Since I just bought a Magnashade I was looking for a good place to store it and it struck me that this compartment had the spare space. So, I built a 7" deep shelf to hold the shade and also hung a lower padded shelf for aerosols, etc. I found a couple pieces of angle iron in the shop to use as brackets. And I used glued dovetailed joints for strength.

oops.... two of the pics are rotated 90*

cheers,
Joopy

Nice job. We keep our folding dinette chairs back there. Besides, if I converted that space as you did my DW would load it up. We just went through the coach and got rid of a bunch of stuff. We were way over weight. I have not weighed in since the loosing of pounds. Need to do that soon.

Here is what I did in one of my cabinets. I removed a heavy tool chest, added the peg board, glued super magnets to the board to hold my wrenches in place on the peg hooks and put the remaining tools in the bin. The plywood cover on the bin makes a good platform for my compressor. This area is now much easier to access. When I pull the compressor and tub out I have my table saw and scrolling saw stored back there. This is the best arrangement I have set up for these things to date.

Happy trails,
Rick Y