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Old 10-21-2011, 04:01 AM   #1
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Circuit Breaker blowing

If I run 2 portable heaters on 1500 w, or 1 and start the coffee pot, the 20 amp circuit breaker blows! Can this be fixed to not blow ??? Thanks
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Old 10-21-2011, 04:15 AM   #2
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With the load your indicating with the heaters, then NO. 1500W divided by 120V = 12.5amps X the two heaters is 25 amps. Don't know what the wattage draw is on the coffee pot but it must be high enough to still exceed the amp rating of the breaker. Don't you have more then one circuit so you can divide the load? DO NOT just increase the size of the breaker rating to overcome the problem. The wire would not be sized properly to carry the load.
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Old 10-21-2011, 12:28 PM   #3
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You could have 30 (page 2) or 50 amp (page 3) service. Like Steve said, select recepticles on different load circuits
http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/...ire_172077.pdf

Wiring TOC for your rig: Table of Contents

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Old 10-21-2011, 04:45 PM   #4
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No. Your circuit breaker was doing what is is supposed to do. All residential circuit breakers are actually rated by Underwriters Laboratory as "Intermittent duty"; with continuous duty at 80% of handle rating. In this case, a 20 A breaker should only hold in at 16 A, but the "Hold-in, Trip-out" window begins at this point. At anything over this, there is a time / load curve that defines when the breaker will thermally trip. A 17A load takes a long time to trip, but 20A trips within 10 - 15 minutes if my work memory is accurate (short circuits cause the breaker to trip literally instantaneously).

Circuit breakers trip to protect the insulation on the wires, GFI breakers trip to protect people.

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Originally Posted by WendellG View Post
If I run 2 portable heaters on 1500 w, or 1 and start the coffee pot, the 20 amp circuit breaker blows! Can this be fixed to not blow ??? Thanks
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Old 10-21-2011, 05:06 PM   #5
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A coffee maker draws a lot of amps.

If you want to see how much different things draw, just fire up your generator.
Turn on different applicances, one at a time and see how your generator reacts.
The coffee maker will surprise you.

Been there, done that.
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Old 10-21-2011, 06:06 PM   #6
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The pre poster Nailed it;; If it is a 25 amp braker. The MAXIMUM Continous draw should be NO more then 15 amps; So many People are Idiots;; when a braker says 25 amps they Invarieable try to plug in A 25 amp load;;;; As a study load ;; it don't work that way; Use your head;; Don't plug it in. Life is good; Some will say I am to Harsh; Maybe;; It also may keep you from burning your RV. to the ground; Electrical fires in RV are all to common and most are Fatel;;
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Old 10-22-2011, 02:03 AM   #7
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Thanks guys, it is a 20 amp breaker. Is there a safe way to fix this?
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Old 10-22-2011, 02:28 AM   #8
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I would say there is no 'safe' way to fix this, if all are on the same breaker.

In our coach, there are three breakers that split the various outlets, front, middle, rear. In the cold spells during winter last year, to save propane, we had three 1500w heaters, that were all running, on thermostats, cycling on and off, but I'm sure there were times they would all run at the same time.

Only tripped one breaker once, front heater was on, and we tried to use an electric frypan. So we learned not to run the heater on that circuit while cooking.
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Old 10-22-2011, 03:54 AM   #9
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Fixing it is as I mentioned before. You have to split the load up. You have determined it was a 20A breaker. There should be more breakers in the panel and there should be a panel label with circuits identified on that label. If not, purchase a plug in voltage tester, turn the breakers off one at a time and now see what receptacles are not working. Make yourself a list of these recptacles or a diagram of their location and keep it in safe keeping for future problems. Now that you have identified what breakers control what, if you need a heater in the bedroom/bath area plug it in there. If you need one in the living area plug another in that area, remembering that they MUST be on different circuits. Now if you want to use the coffee pot and it turns out to be on one of these circuits, then you will have to unplug the heater at that location. Same goes for the other heater, if it's in that bath area and the wife wants to use a hair dryer or curling iron then that heater will probably have to be unplugged. It's all a matter of balance. Failed to mention that it's also a good time to identify these circuits on the panel label which is usually attached to the inside part of the door when you open it. If there is not one there you can easily make yourself one and attach it with some tape. In addition you also probably have some receptacles in your storage bay area. You will want to know what circuits they are on as well. "Whew" hope this helps you out.
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Old 10-22-2011, 10:40 AM   #10
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1500 watts/120 volts = 12.5 amps

Times 2 = 25 amps

you are already 5 amps over the rating of the breaker and it should blow at, as I recall 17 long term..

So, no, there is no cure

now if you have one 1500 watt on one breaker and another on another (As i do it) and the coffee maker (often in the thousand watt range) is sharing a circuit let's see what the math says

2500 watts / 120 volts =20.833333 amps Again your 20 amp breaker should make a very quick CLICK

Your options are to use a stove top coffee maker, or a smaller (less wattage) coffee maker or to add a circuit.

In my motor home there are 3 20 amp outlets (2 of 'em on 15 amp breakers) each outlet has a breaker to it's lonesome

One (Factory installed) feeds my Progressive Dynamics 9180 with charge wizard Therotical max draw is right around 10 amps which is why i changed it to a 15 amp breaker... The other two I added, one in the bedroom one in the living room. they are fed with 12ga wire off a 15 and 20 amp breaker in the box.. Eventually they will both have 20 amp breakers.

These are for space heaters.. One more space heater line is a 15 amp (Originally the washing machine/dryer line but I did not opt for them.. rig still came wired, so I "retasked" by means of a 20 amp capable appliance type extension cord with 15 amp plug and outlet.
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Old 10-22-2011, 07:26 PM   #11
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WendellG,
Our Horizon seems to also have many of the plugs in the galley area and micowave on the same 20 amp breaker. On 30 amps site, you have to watch everything you turn on and off, with a 50 amp site, using two space heater, coffee maker, microwave will blow the breaker.

We have a heat pump which we use in conjunction with one space heater, and using the vinyl vent covers help control the heat. I installed a rope lite in my water inlet bay that I turn on during freezing weather.

I have been considering a stand alone circuit which would run from the rv park pedistal 15 amp gfi into the rv and to a new dedicated out let for a space heater. This would allow for a little more flexiibility during cold periods.
My expreince has been that when Its 15degr. or lower the rv is just hard to keep warm with out using the propane heater.
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Old 10-22-2011, 09:28 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Party Barge View Post
WendellG,
Our Horizon seems to also have many of the plugs in the galley area and micowave on the same 20 amp breaker. <<<<<<<<<
Our Vectra has a 15amp circuit breaker for the microwave. The plugins are separate circuits.
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Old 10-23-2011, 01:22 PM   #13
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My RV (Damon Intruder) has one breaker JUST for the microwave, One feeds all televisions and such, One feeds the GFCI outlets (kitchen, bath, dining table, patio) one the bedrooom outlets and fridge, one the Washer/Dryer box One for the water heater and two for the air conditioners (one each) (I think that's all from teh factory)..

I have added 2 circuits (30 amp) for feeding power back to the house via a proper inlet and transfer panel or for daisy chaining to another RV. Two 20 capable (one is) for space heaters and such.

Lots of breakers and room for at least one more.
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Old 10-24-2011, 08:41 AM   #14
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Posters Please Be extremley Care full When plugging Electric heaters in;; A lot of wire In the RV industery is 14or even 16 Gage; When I hear some one Putting a larger breaker in. I get the chills.;;And I ask my self WHY don't they just put a gun to there head and pull the Trigger..Over the winter months We all read of familys Burning to death in Trailer houses, The cause. "ELECTRIAL short" Before you plug an electric heater in. "DO YOUR HOME WORK" We can all tell of tarrible stories;; It's not allways the other guy.. Please I may seem Harsh; Be carefull.. Life is good. IN Any home If an Electrial Circuit is needed for a Electrial heater, electrial water tank, Bathroom ,hair dryers ETC , It will allways be a dedecated circuit, Nothing else on it EXCEPT;; Because there is a plug inlet, that does not mean something can be plugged in.. Be carefull.. life is good
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Old 10-24-2011, 01:29 PM   #15
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In another thread... I also expressed concern over the factory wiring.

I might add the two outlets I added for space heaters in this rig,, Each outlet has it's own breaker, and is the ONLY load on that breaker, and it's 12ga wire tightened under screws, not shoved into a little hole.

As you mentioned.. With 14ga wire and those push-in connections... you might get just a bit more heat than you bargained for (FIRE!!!!!!!!!!)
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Old 10-24-2011, 10:39 PM   #16
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In our Tour, as well as indicated in the wiring diagram specified in a previous post, the receptacles are split between 3 different 15Amp breakers. The wiring in the coach is probably 14 AWG which is only rated for 15 Amps. Unless you re-wire the receptacles with 12 AWG wire, you will not be able to use a 20 Amp breaker without some serious concerns.

I have had the same problem when I am using an electric griddle plugged into my exterior receptacle and trying to run a toaster inside. It turns out that their are 4 receptacle all on the same breaker (outside, kitchen counter, one below the bench seat, and one below the OnePlace panel in the kitchen). It turns out that the one below the OnePlace panel is a GFI and the other three run out of it to provide the required protection.
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