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Old 11-24-2020, 08:09 AM   #1
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Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 40
Dash A/C heater problem

Morning all.

2006 Winnebago Ellipse 40KD. Dash heater won't blow hot. A/C works fine but the heater is blowing cold no matter what I do. Confirmed that valves are open and water is getting to it(pulled water hoses in front of rig and they are pushing water through). I had a mobile repair guy come out and he checked the vacuum lines to the front as well as the pump and valves. All working. Took it to a Freightliner dealer and they said it needs the A/C Controller" replaced...for $3500.00 in labor and $165.00 parts! Called for clarification - Thinking he might mean the heater core. Waiting for an answer. The A/C controller is in the dash, no? Can't imagine that would cost $3500 in labor to change......Any ideas or suggestions?
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Old 11-24-2020, 10:35 AM   #2
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Newmar Owners Club
Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Dallas, TX area
Posts: 634
If the heater hose going into the mixer box is getting hot after running for a reasonable time, and the out hose on the other side of the unit is not hot, the valve is not switching.
If it is Evans unit, this is what I would do. Remove the part of the mixer box that the hoses go into and out of. I think there are 3-screws. Forget about the printed circuit part that remains on the overall unit. Nothing to do there. Take the hoses off of the unit, clamp them off to save draining the coolant fluid. Take the unit apart and there is a rotating shaft that acts like a ball-valve. Take that out and soak in white vinegar for about 1/2-hour and clean off the mineral crud that has most likely accumulated and frozen the shaft and is restricting the movement. Lubricate the shaft and reinstall. Check the movement of the shaft by selecting the hot to cold position on the dash temperature selector.

I have had to replace the dash temp selector, a Ford part number, as the selector was not commanding a change to the outside unit that is mentioned above. Another fix, if the above does not work is to get a complete new unit, the part with the valves and the printed circuit. I replaced mine about 2 years ago. The supplier of the original equipment had been changed and the pig-tails were changed so an adapter cable was required. Now, this I did not understand, there were two adapter cables. One was about 8-10 inches long and plugged into he existing wiring and that was it. Way cheaper than the other one that was offered. The other one was a complete wiring bundle that ran to the dash and wired into the dash controls. Very expensive. Not sure why the difference when the short one was easy and quick to fix the heater/ac mixer.

Hope this helps. $3500, I couldn't drink enough beer to make that sound like a good idea.
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Old 11-25-2020, 06:28 AM   #3
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Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 40
A/C issue

RVBIKER45,

Thanks for the info. I will definitely look into that. By chance would you be able to send a pic of the mixer from your rig? I'm not sure what part you're referring to. Thanks again and I will let you know the outcome.
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Old 11-25-2020, 09:25 AM   #4
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Spartan Chassis
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Location: Dallas, TX area
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I will get a pix and send it a little later today.
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Old 11-25-2020, 11:08 AM   #5
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Newmar Owners Club
Spartan Chassis
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Pix of Heater Controller

https://www.irv2.com/forums/attachme...1&d=1606327641

The module that I am referring to is the one with the hose that has the shut-of valve inline coming from the engine. It is hard to see the outgoing hose on the other side of the module, but it is there. The module has the wiring connector attached and is the one that needs to be replaced if the module is replaced as the old vs. the new have different connectors.
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