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Old 07-22-2021, 02:44 PM   #1
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Dash A/C temp

I'm sure I read about this in this forum before, but can't seem to find it......
So, here goes.
I just checked the r34 pressure in the dash AC system, and added a can to get the gage in the green.
Coach temp is 80 and air from the AC duct is 60.
Is this what a good charged system should be?

Please advise how this compares to your experience.
Thanks
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Old 07-22-2021, 07:11 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winnie32v View Post
I'm sure I read about this in this forum before, but can't seem to find it......
So, here goes.
I just checked the r34 pressure in the dash AC system, and added a can to get the gage in the green.
Coach temp is 80 and air from the AC duct is 60.
Is this what a good charged system should be?

Please advise how this compares to your experience.
Thanks
A general rule is that the cool air from the AC should be at least 20 less than the ambient temp. If you used a setup from a can and the hose has a gauge on it, if you are in the green you should be ok. It appears your ac is working. But the green area on those hardware store recharge kits is pretty wide. I try and get mine to the higher side of the green.

Now that it has run some you should be able to put the gauge back on it and see where it is. I assume the can you are talking about is the 12 oz size? Or 1 pound at the most. If you are just barely in the green you may want to add another 8oz to it.
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Old 07-22-2021, 07:21 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winnie32v View Post
I'm sure I read about this in this forum before, but can't seem to find it......
So, here goes.
I just checked the r34 pressure in the dash AC system, and added a can to get the gage in the green.
Coach temp is 80 and air from the AC duct is 60.
Is this what a good charged system should be?

Please advise how this compares to your experience.
Thanks
No, it's not. Those would be great numbers from your "house/rooftop" A/C (20 degrees temp drop across the evaporator....very strong performance) but not from the chassis A/C. The evap on the chassis A/C should be running very near freezing and the output air should be about 40 degrees (strong system) 45 degrees still OK.....60 degrees, not so much.

It may need a bit more refrigerant. If you have added refrigerant in the past, the you might consider making your next addition with a can that has a small oil charge in it (like 2 oz.) When refrigerant leaks out, oil goes with it as "Freon" has a great affinity for oil. (Years ago it was used to clean parts.)

It also could be because an air control door isn't working properly ..... the heater core can "manhandle" the evaporator.

Let us all know how it turns out, pls.

Good times and safe travels to ya.
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Old 07-23-2021, 03:08 AM   #4
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OK, Thanks.

I just got a new can of refrigerant that contains a new 'cooler synthetic oil'.
I will ck the pressure on the low side, as before, and ensure that the gage is in the high side of the green.

I'll let you know how I make out later.
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Old 07-23-2021, 04:56 AM   #5
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Your system might be charged ok. You don't want to overfill it as well. I have a 2004 Adventurer. My system wasn't cooling real well. I had the system checked/charged at an AC garage.

On my unit the best cooling is in MAX AC mode. In that mode vacuum closes the hot water feed to the air box. And closes the flap that draw fresh in from the outside. That recirculates inside air instead of drawing in hot outside air. If your unit is like that run it in MAX AC mode for the best cooling. AC mode doesn't close those valves allowing blended air. Turned out my vacuum harness was leaking. I replaced the harness and now the system works as expected.
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Old 07-23-2021, 05:04 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cef2lion View Post
Your system might be charged ok. You don't want to overfill it as well. I have a 2004 Adventurer. My system wasn't cooling real well. I had the system checked/charged at an AC garage.

On my unit the best cooling is in MAX AC mode. In that mode vacuum closes the hot water feed to the air box. And closes the flap that draw fresh in from the outside. That recirculates inside air instead of drawing in hot outside air. If your unit is like that run it in MAX AC mode for the best cooling. AC mode doesn't close those valves allowing blended air. Turned out my vacuum harness was leaking. I replaced the harness and now the system works as expected.
Could you advise me on the temp of the air from the AC duct when the setting is MaxAir?, fan on high.
Thanks
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Old 07-23-2021, 05:08 AM   #7
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20 degrees difference is the most you can get
As the coach cools down the duct air will cool also
Your unit is working the best it can
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Old 07-24-2021, 04:04 PM   #8
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Little cooler in Denver today...........went to the storage lot to clean off the bugs from the last trip to Montana. While there, I cranked up the ol' Ford and took some readings:

Ambient: About 82 degrees
Inside coach: About 80 degrees
A/C settings: Max Air, Medium Fan Speed

After about 2 minutes the outlet temp was roughly 45 degrees. I upped the idle rpm to 1000 and within another minute, the outlet temp was 40 degrees. So, as I mentioned earlier 40 degrees is a good strong system. Ford is a 2006 so it is 15 years old; A/C has never been serviced........not that I am complaining, mind you. :^)

The chassis air is a brute compared to the rooftop air. It is on the order of 3 Tons of A/C (36,000 BTU per hr) ........... and it takes 3 or 4 HP off the engine to run it.

In my former life (I'm 90 next week) I worked on a lot of auto A/C's in my small business but got tired of the grease, manifold burns; etc, and just worked residential later on. They have changed a lot in 40 years but the thermodynamics is still the same.

Hope this is of value to you. Click on the pics to enlarge.

Good luck on the fix, podnuh.
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Old 07-26-2021, 02:39 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by youracman View Post
Little cooler in Denver today...........went to the storage lot to clean off the bugs from the last trip to Montana. While there, I cranked up the ol' Ford and took some readings:

Ambient: About 82 degrees
Inside coach: About 80 degrees
A/C settings: Max Air, Medium Fan Speed

After about 2 minutes the outlet temp was roughly 45 degrees. I upped the idle rpm to 1000 and within another minute, the outlet temp was 40 degrees. So, as I mentioned earlier 40 degrees is a good strong system. Ford is a 2006 so it is 15 years old; A/C has never been serviced........not that I am complaining, mind you. :^)

The chassis air is a brute compared to the rooftop air. It is on the order of 3 Tons of A/C (36,000 BTU per hr) ........... and it takes 3 or 4 HP off the engine to run it.

In my former life (I'm 90 next week) I worked on a lot of auto A/C's in my small business but got tired of the grease, manifold burns; etc, and just worked residential later on. They have changed a lot in 40 years but the thermodynamics is still the same.

Hope this is of value to you. Click on the pics to enlarge.

Good luck on the fix, podnuh.
Thank you.
We are going on a short camping trip today and will be back on Thursday.
I will be checking the temp of the cooling air from the AC as we travel.
I will report back when we're settled back home.
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Old 07-27-2021, 04:52 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winnie32v View Post
I'm sure I read about this in this forum before, but can't seem to find it......
So, here goes.
I just checked the r34 pressure in the dash AC system, and added a can to get the gage in the green.
Coach temp is 80 and air from the AC duct is 60.
Is this what a good charged system should be?

Please advise how this compares to your experience.
Thanks
Something wrong with your A/C. I have an 2014 itasca meridian 40U and the dash A/C, measured with a food thermometer comes out of the vents at approx 42 degrees and Iím in Miami where the ambient temperature is 90 degrees.
I am having some A/C issues but I believe I found the problem. After a while ( an hour or so ) my A/C starts blowing warmer air, around 60 degrees and I noticed the that cooling fan for the A/C condenser stops working.
Going to work on that issue in the coming days.
But to address your issue, something is wrong with that A/C, donít settle for 60 degree air coming out of the vents. Have the system checked out thoroughly.
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Old 07-27-2021, 08:52 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by cef2lion View Post
Your system might be charged ok. You don't want to overfill it as well. I have a 2004 Adventurer. My system wasn't cooling real well. I had the system checked/charged at an AC garage.

On my unit the best cooling is in MAX AC mode. In that mode vacuum closes the hot water feed to the air box. And closes the flap that draw fresh in from the outside. That recirculates inside air instead of drawing in hot outside air. If your unit is like that run it in MAX AC mode for the best cooling. AC mode doesn't close those valves allowing blended air. Turned out my vacuum harness was leaking. I replaced the harness and now the system works as expected.
what vacuum harness please?
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Old 07-28-2021, 03:38 AM   #12
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UPDATE

We got back from our short trip a little early.
So, here is where we ended up with the AC cold air temperature.

History: AC blowing 'cooler' air but not really what you would expect.
My unit is 20 years old and the AC has never been serviced.
My garage guy added a 12oz can of R34 and said the dial on his gage was in the green. Air was colder than before. Using a borrowed gage, I added another can of R34 and the gage was a little higher in the green. I wanted the low side pressure to be in the 'upper' green area on the gage, so I bought a big can of R34/lubricant with an included gage. I added this whole can and the dial moved to the upper area of the green on the dial.

My trip results:
After 5 minutes on the road at 50mph, AC on Max AC, my wife used the IR Temp Gun and recorded 37 - 42 deg F out of the AC Ducts. Outside temps were 80 - 85 deg F, full sun. This was repeated several times both out and back from our trip.

We have never been so comfortable as we drove in this hotter outside temps.

Looks like the AC unit is functioning properly as was discussed above.
We are now ready for our winter trip to Florida.

Thanks for all of your replies.
I now have my own AC charging hose w/gage and I know how to use it for periodic pressure checks.
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Old 07-28-2021, 06:20 AM   #13
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I got my vacuum harness from ComfortAir

Vacuum Harness (SCS/VCS) 036-00466
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Old 07-28-2021, 10:54 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winnie32v View Post
We got back from our short trip a little early.
So, here is where we ended up with the AC cold air temperature.

History: AC blowing 'cooler' air but not really what you would expect.
My unit is 20 years old and the AC has never been serviced.
My garage guy added a 12oz can of R34 and said the dial on his gage was in the green. Air was colder than before. Using a borrowed gage, I added another can of R34 and the gage was a little higher in the green. I wanted the low side pressure to be in the 'upper' green area on the gage, so I bought a big can of R34/lubricant with an included gage. I added this whole can and the dial moved to the upper area of the green on the dial.

My trip results:
After 5 minutes on the road at 50mph, AC on Max AC, my wife used the IR Temp Gun and recorded 37 - 42 deg F out of the AC Ducts. Outside temps were 80 - 85 deg F, full sun. This was repeated several times both out and back from our trip.

We have never been so comfortable as we drove in this hotter outside temps.

Looks like the AC unit is functioning properly as was discussed above.
We are now ready for our winter trip to Florida.

Thanks for all of your replies.
I now have my own AC charging hose w/gage and I know how to use it for periodic pressure checks.
Glad to hear you are "comfy" as you roll down the road.

I always told folks that my analogy re this situation is that one could consider a tire with a nail in it "fixed" because one aired it up sufficiently to make is usable......for a short duration. It isn't really "fixed" of course.

For the long haul you need to find the leak and take care of it. It is most often, I believe, an evaporator leak. An HVAC guy can tell this by placing a sensitive (AKA expensive) electronic halogen leak detector in one of the outlets and checking for refrigerant gas ...... at low or zero fan speed.....after the system has sat for 15 min or so. Never an easy job to replace an evaporator .... even for experienced DIY "wrenchers".

Compressor shaft seals used to leak occasionally as well.....but not as common as an evaporator leak. Can also be found with the halogen leak detector. Nowadays, the A/C runs in the winter too (acts as a dehumidifier to reduce windshield frosting) so the seals last longer...... cuz they are ''wetted" often.

Out in front of the radiator, is the condenser. Condenser leaks are rare; an oily, dust spot is usually present in the event of a leak.......assuming the condenser has not seen a lot of driving rain.


In any event, IMHO, you should be budgeting for a pretty expensive repair in the future ...unfortunately. 'Til then, good times and safe travels to ya.
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