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04-19-2025, 07:23 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2023
Location: Sun City, AZ
Posts: 331
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Driver's door electric window
Like many others apparently, the window on my driver's door goes up v-e-e-r-r-y slowly. I pulled the panel off and finally figured out that it goes up and down via some sort of worm gear in that aluminum tube. So, I lubricated that really well and now it goes down WAY faster and up a little faster -- but it's still slow.
So i'm wondering if replaced the motor will do any good or whether the motors are just underpowered in general and replacing it would not do any good. The motor looks a lot like the same motor on the electric steps.
So, what say ye? Would replacing the motor make it go up any faster? Or are they just underpowered and even a new one would still be slow?
Thanks
__________________
2004 Winnebago Adventurer 33V (W22, Banks power, Koni FSDs, Safe-T-Plus steering stabilizer)
2016 Forester toad w/wireless lights and Patriot 2
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04-19-2025, 07:37 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: North America somewhere
Posts: 32,482
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Don't forget to lube the window channels too. The glass slides on the seals, so naturally it will go up slower. If that doesn't work some, then you can begin throwing money at the issue. A new motor with the same NM torque rating is required,if you choose that route.
The only way to determine if the present motor is working properly is to measure amp-draw when the window is being raised against the amp-draw of a new motor, while both are bench-tested.
__________________
2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD , ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG 11B5MX,Infantry retired;GS Life member,FMCA " My fellow Americans, ask not what your country can do for you, ask what you can do for your country. John F. Kennedy
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04-19-2025, 07:41 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2023
Location: Sun City, AZ
Posts: 331
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray,IN
Don't forget to lube the window channels too. The glass slides on the seals, so naturally it will go up slower. If that doesn't work some, then you can begin throwing money at the issue. A new motor with the same NM torque rating is required,if you choose that route.
The only way to determine if the present motor is working properly is to measure amp-draw when the window is being raised against the amp-draw of a new motor, while both are bench-tested.
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did you use spray silicon for the window channels?
__________________
2004 Winnebago Adventurer 33V (W22, Banks power, Koni FSDs, Safe-T-Plus steering stabilizer)
2016 Forester toad w/wireless lights and Patriot 2
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04-20-2025, 02:45 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Camarillo, CA ---Back in the house after 9 yrs fulltiming
Posts: 1,753
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Dave, your coach and mine are of the same vintage. I would bet big $$$ that your problem is the switch is weak and dropping too much voltage. The power wire going to the switch is a little too small of a gauge and drops some volts also.
I fought this problem for about 15 yrs. I lubed everything & cleaned the switch, but still had to use one hand on the switch and one hand grabbing the glass and pulling up.
You can test my theory by measuring the volts on the 2 wires to the motor when the window is going up. You'll see it drops way down, maybe 6-10 volts, I don't remember how much.
So I replaced the switch with a very beefy double-pole, center off, momentary rocker switch. I also ran a heavy wire from the +12v at the fuse panel.
Dang that window shoots up faster than any of my cars and you don't want your finger in the way. I suppose they intentionally design it to be slow for liability reasons. I put that switch in about 5 yrs ago and it works like a dream.
Happy Trails,
Bill
__________________
Bill & dear wife Helen, Last of the Chieftains 39T
2004 W22, UP tune, Banks headers, Koni FSD, Safe-T-Plus, SMI brake
2017 Lincoln MKZ Hybrid towed 4-down or my 2008 Jeep Wrangler JK
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04-20-2025, 05:26 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2023
Location: Sun City, AZ
Posts: 331
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duner
Dave, your coach and mine are of the same vintage. I would bet big $$$ that your problem is the switch is weak and dropping too much voltage. The power wire going to the switch is a little too small of a gauge and drops some volts also.
I fought this problem for about 15 yrs. I lubed everything & cleaned the switch, but still had to use one hand on the switch and one hand grabbing the glass and pulling up.
You can test my theory by measuring the volts on the 2 wires to the motor when the window is going up. You'll see it drops way down, maybe 6-10 volts, I don't remember how much.
So I replaced the switch with a very beefy double-pole, center off, momentary rocker switch. I also ran a heavy wire from the +12v at the fuse panel.
Dang that window shoots up faster than any of my cars and you don't want your finger in the way. I suppose they intentionally design it to be slow for liability reasons. I put that switch in about 5 yrs ago and it works like a dream.
Happy Trails,
Bill
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Thanks! I give that a shot.
P.S. Do you happen to have a link to that switch on Amazon or someplace?
__________________
2004 Winnebago Adventurer 33V (W22, Banks power, Koni FSDs, Safe-T-Plus steering stabilizer)
2016 Forester toad w/wireless lights and Patriot 2
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04-20-2025, 06:01 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Camarillo, CA ---Back in the house after 9 yrs fulltiming
Posts: 1,753
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__________________
Bill & dear wife Helen, Last of the Chieftains 39T
2004 W22, UP tune, Banks headers, Koni FSD, Safe-T-Plus, SMI brake
2017 Lincoln MKZ Hybrid towed 4-down or my 2008 Jeep Wrangler JK
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04-21-2025, 08:56 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2023
Location: Sun City, AZ
Posts: 331
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duner
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Thank you!
__________________
2004 Winnebago Adventurer 33V (W22, Banks power, Koni FSDs, Safe-T-Plus steering stabilizer)
2016 Forester toad w/wireless lights and Patriot 2
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04-25-2025, 06:38 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2023
Location: Sun City, AZ
Posts: 331
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Tested voltage with going up and it was about 10.75 - 11.25 going up (13+ going down). Tried new switch and it didn't change voltage in either direction. Then tried jumping the smaller gauge wires from the motor to the plug with 12gA and voltage stayed the same, so I guess it'll be what it is for now. I could run heavier 12GA wire from the fuse box to the switch and from there to the motor like you did, but once I get to the motor, I have to splice it into the motor harness which is smaller gauge wire so I don't know if that would defeat the purpose.
It's certainly faster than it was after lubing everything, and I may have to live with it as it.
__________________
2004 Winnebago Adventurer 33V (W22, Banks power, Koni FSDs, Safe-T-Plus steering stabilizer)
2016 Forester toad w/wireless lights and Patriot 2
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05-17-2025, 01:57 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2023
Location: Sun City, AZ
Posts: 331
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Well, maybe I just need to use this window more and keep it moving freely. Today when I got the RV the window came up quicker than it did last time. Maybe it just needed a few up and downs to get the lube circulated. It seemed as fast as it should be today, so I am a "happy camper" as they say.
__________________
2004 Winnebago Adventurer 33V (W22, Banks power, Koni FSDs, Safe-T-Plus steering stabilizer)
2016 Forester toad w/wireless lights and Patriot 2
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05-17-2025, 08:46 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Camarillo, CA ---Back in the house after 9 yrs fulltiming
Posts: 1,753
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__________________
Bill & dear wife Helen, Last of the Chieftains 39T
2004 W22, UP tune, Banks headers, Koni FSD, Safe-T-Plus, SMI brake
2017 Lincoln MKZ Hybrid towed 4-down or my 2008 Jeep Wrangler JK
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