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Old 12-27-2006, 03:33 PM   #1
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My last trip to the Winnebago dealer the service technician gave me a can of Super Slick Dry Lube manufactured by Kent Automotive for use on my leveling jacks. Have any of you guys had any experience with Dry Lube? It appears to be a fantastic product but a little pricey. As far as application - where can or can't I use this product?
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Old 12-27-2006, 03:33 PM   #2
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My last trip to the Winnebago dealer the service technician gave me a can of Super Slick Dry Lube manufactured by Kent Automotive for use on my leveling jacks. Have any of you guys had any experience with Dry Lube? It appears to be a fantastic product but a little pricey. As far as application - where can or can't I use this product?
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Old 12-27-2006, 03:45 PM   #3
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Super Slick Dry Lube sounds like Silicon spray to me.

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Old 12-27-2006, 04:00 PM   #4
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There is some info on it HERE on page nine. At least I think it's the same stuff.
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Old 12-27-2006, 05:08 PM   #5
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HWH recommends no lube on their leveling jacks. Are yours a different mfg??
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Old 12-28-2006, 12:02 AM   #6
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by rvskipper:
My last trip to the Winnebago dealer the service technician gave me a can of Super Slick Dry Lube manufactured by Kent Automotive for use on my leveling jacks. Have any of you guys had any experience with Dry Lube? It appears to be a fantastic product but a little pricey. As far as application - where can or can't I use this product? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Clay seems to have the specs on the link he posted.

I used simular products maintaining shop equipment in three plants and found that they worked well aside from their tendency to build up with repeated application. They are basically a Silicon or Teflon Paint and can gum things up if overused.

An example would be on our Delta Unisaws I would use a simular product to protect the top from rust and lubricate. The dry lube would not absorb into the wood products being cut afterwards and cause problems such as fish eye or uneven colors of the wood stains. Users would then take the dry lube from the tool crib and reapply it to excess. This would build up in the t-slots and cause the miter guide to bind. Then I would have to go around with solvent and a non-abrasive scouring pad to clean the dry lube off and gets things moving again.

I never had a problem with hydraulic systems that was directly attributed to the dry lube but if too much was used it may suspend in the fluid and clog filter or orifices.
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