Electrical or just bad luck

[OnTheMove2]

Thanks for all your words of wisdom YC1. It sounds like, given your battery issues with 08 you had, that his may be a problem with the Sightseer. I agree that one battery seems kinds of skimpy. Heck my truck has two.

If you read my earlier post, you can see that I have been able to charge my batteries, both chassis and coach. I need to check in just a bit to see if they have been able to hold those charges.

I think the idea of a cut off switch directly tied to the batteries would be really useful as I agree that those switches are just not sufficient.

I will have to do some research to find out what cut off switch to buy and how to install them. Sigh...I always have such a steep learning curve here, but once I get it...I GET IT. So onward and upward.

I will follow your advice with regard to shore power, however, as noted in my earlier post, either my surge protector or my shore power is problematic. Those surge protectors are not cheap to replace.

I believe I have not damaged the house batteries, but the chassis battery might be bad. I hope in my stumbling efforts to DIY this, I have not hurt anything.

As for the volt meter, I have instructions that I can follow. Just slow going.

I will keep you posted as I go forth.

Best to you and my thanks, Terry

[Solo_RV_Guy]

Hi Terry-

Part of the frustration tracking these things down is that if there are 2 ways for a manufacturer to do something, a 3rd way will have been used. Bah, humbug!

On a number of coaches the steps are powered from the chassis battery but some use the house battery. Same for leveling system.

Your batteries dying so quickly makes me think of 4 things: the batteries are not really taking a full charge (if they're getting charged at all by the RV charger/converter), you have a bad ground connection (or several), you have a short circuit in something that is not disconnected by the the use/store battery disconnect switch, or indeed some critters have taken up housekeeping or gnawed on your wiring that prevents proper charging.

You've gotten some good advice from people who own/have owned a similar coach so I'll happily defer to them on the specifics.

Good luck finding the source of the problem, and best wishes for many happy and safe miles ahead.

[Hikerdogs]

Originally Posted by OnTheMove2

Hiya Craig,

Well thanks for the kudos. I just have to make sure that out of my ignorance I am not doing more harm then good LOL.

Thanks for the info on how to test for a parasitic drain on the battery. I have printed off those instructions from the link you posted and will try and find my trust volt meter to see what is happening.

With regard to the batteries:

Good News: The chassis battery took a charge and I was able to get the rig started.
Bad News: My battery charger indicated the battery was bad. Of course that could mean there was a drain on it which was dropping it below the required levels. Or it could mean that it is just bad, although being only a year old, that would be disappointing.

Good News: The charger was also able to charge up the coach batteries. I checked the monitor and it indicated the batteries were fully charged.

Bad News: I was unable to hook up to shore power (ie: my home) because the surge protector indicated I was receiving high voltage (141 amps). Because this is a 50 amp coach, I have been using a dog bone with two outputs, one that is for a 30 amp outlet and one for a 15 amp outlet. This might not be the best configuration but it has seemed to work for me in the past. Anyway, Line 1 - the 30 amp outlet reads at 126 while Line 2 reads at 141. I tried unplugging appliances, even flipping breakers and it would not budge from the 141. I tried using just the 30 amp plug and it indicated that Line 2 was too low, reporting in at 90 amps, even though it wasn't even plugged in. I did not want to bypass the surge protector just in case my power was having problems; sure did not need to fry a bunch of things in the rig. I am thinking my power surge my be faulty, so guess I will need to buy a new one. Any recommendations or suggestions about this latest headache?

Now that the batteries are no longer being charged I am going to see if they have drained any. Well at least I can tell if the coach batteries have drained. I will see if the coach starts as well.

Both of the battery switches were in the Off position so if they are drained, there is definitely something going on.

Thanks for the recommendation on the solar battery maintenance. That is pretty inexpensive and probably well worth the money. I will have to explore further with regard to installing solar panels as that is going to be a tad bit more costly.

As to the jacks, I have no idea if these are HWH. It does not identify them in the operators manual. I did not receive all of the supplemental books and it is quite frustrating when it says things like "See the Leveling System Operating Manual" in your InfoCase. Of course I have no such manual. I am going to have to go through the Operator Manual to see how many of these supplemental guides I am missing. If there is a way to find out what kind of jacks I have by eyeballing them, let me know.

Thanks for everything and all your advice.

I am able to finally draw a deep breath with everyone's help here.

Best, Terry

Looking at the 2009 Sightseer brochure there is a picture of the "Kwikie Level Best " leveler controller on page 5.

https://winnebago.com/brochure-archi...Sightseer#5326

Also shown on the left most picture is the systems panel in the hall. It's referred to as the "OnePlace" systems center in the text below.

The oldest operators manual online is for the model year 2010. On page 6-7 there is a picture of the chassis and house battery disconnect switches.

https://winnebagoind.com/resources/m...0Sightseer.pdf

If you have this system it shouldn't be necessary to install another disconnect switch. We have a similar system in our 2013 Adventurer and can leave the coach in storage with both sets of batteries disconnected for well over a month without either set discharging to the point the coach can't be started. Since you purchased the unit used I would also check to see if anyone has added some accessories that are powered directly by the battery, and are not disconnected by using the chassis battery shut off switch.

If you don't have added accessories I suspect your shut off switch isn't activating the solenoid to disconnect the chassis battery. As a test try to disconnect the battery then turn on the radio, headlights, or other accessories dependent on the chassis battery. If they work either the shut off switch isn't getting current to the solenoid, or the solenoid itself is defective.

In my earlier post I mentioned wiping down the jacks with WD40. I was referring to the piston or rod that the pad is attached to. Often times debris gets kicked up and becomes attached to the rod. Asphalt and tar specs are often found on the rods. In some cases it will accumulate on the seals when the jacks are raised. The seals become stiff and will not allow the jack to fully retract.

[Gordiegaffer]

a knife switch goes between the negative post on the battery and the negative cable it is an easy way to disconnect he battery
https://www.aliexpress.com/i/33027101140.html

[Craig1960]

I have learned lots about the HWH jack systems and there is a member on here that works for them and is very helpful but I'm not fimilar with the Kwikie system at all so can't help with that except for this, I was rereading your posts about the jacks and you said one was leaking a bit, if they are double acting (power down and power up) that could be your issue with the alarm sounding. I did see you mentioned springs though so I'm guessing the are just power down. In that case the springs could be weak and not retracting one or more all the way up. Take a look and see if you can see one that is down a bit. If there is one and you have a jack of some sort to push it up try that and see if the alarm goes out. It doesn't take much force to get them up with a jack.

As for the surge protector, it could very well be used up from getting surges after your power outages or neighbors work, They only take so many joules (i believe) before they are used up. I think before you buy a new one you need to find out if there is actually a problem with your power source or you could just be wasting money.

Back to the electrical, I think you are going to have to find a good shop to have a look at it. If the warranty is going to cover it and the dealer can't fix it see if they will let you take it to a different shop. A good shop should be able to narrow the issues down in a few hours if they know what they are doing. Not saying you can't figure it out but you could be chasing your tail for quite awhile before you do, I know I have and I have a fair bit of exprience on 12V systems.

[OnTheMove2]

Hi Solo

I absolutely agree with you. If there is a different way to do something, just to make it confusing for poor dolts like me, then that is what will be done.

Since the stairs are not the standard for this RV, it is possible they were installed and wired up differently. It does seem like the stairs are impacted in some way with the battery.

Last night I went out and for the third night, the RV started right up so I am hopeful the battery is maintaining its charge. I did notice that the radio face remains lit even when the RV is turned off AND the switch is turned off. I wonder if that could be draining the battery a bit.

As to the house batteries, even though I had it charged for 24 hours, the monitor indicated it was only 2/3's capacity. The lights appeared dim. However, I had enough battery power to start up the generator, so that was encouraging. Once I let the generator run for a bit, along with the RV, the battery showed full. I am not sure what to think. I did notice that the fridge appeared to be on, although it was not cold inside, its possible that was draining the house batteries. So I plugged the charger on the house batteries again and turned off the fridge. I will go out this evening to check on it. If the batteries are still low, then it is possible these batteries are bad and need to be replaced.

Since I can not use shore power to charge the batteries, until I replace the surge protector and make sure I do not have a high voltage coming from my house, I am dependent upon my trickle charger.

Thanks so much for your thoughts and advice.

Best, Terry

[OnTheMove2]

Hi Hikerdogs,

Yeah, what you saw on the brochure is pretty much the set up that I have with regard to the power center and the switches.

Could you clarify something for me. You said that when you store your motorhome, even when the batteries have been disconnected, everything starts right up. Do you have switches in your motorhome, or do you physically disconnect the batteries?

I think you could be right about something drawing power from the batteries, even when the switches are off. I will try what you suggest to see if I can narrow things down as to whether the switches are working appropriately.

Thanks so much, Terry

[OnTheMove2]

Thanks Gordie for explaining the knife switch to me and providing me with a link. If the switches are not working properly, then a knife switch would seem to be a handy thing to have.

Best, Terry

[OnTheMove2]

Hi Craig, I have tried to look at the jacks after they have been raised and they seemed to be at about the same position. But...one time it seemed like one of them did not retract as far. I will check them out again and if one is off, I will use the jack that I have to see if I can make it retract further. That's a really good idea. I will let you know how that.

As to the electrical...yes you are quite right. I think I need to get the rig to someone who works on electrical issues. The dealership had approved me doing that but I have not been able to find someone since the whole pandemic thing hit. I will follow up on that now to see if I can locate someone who could take a look at things. You are right...it could take forever to locate the issues

[OnTheMove2]

Oh Craig...as to the surge protector, I do believe the poor thing has had all it can take I from my power issues. I hate to purchase another one, but I think I am going to have to do that. I am going to have to take a volt meter to my master panel to see if I am having too much power. I called out the utility company about two months ago and they said everything seemed okay. I really did not want to call them out again unless I can say more definitively that there is a high voltage issue.

I am going to start pulling all of my hair out soon LOL

Thanks for everything, Terry

[Blastvalve]

I’ve got an idea for the Jacks Down issue you are having. Prior to my Vista I had a 2008 Sunova, which is the sibling to the Sightseer line. I too had the “leaky jacks”. Getting some WD40 on them sometimes helped the seals. Mine had grease zerks on them and a little grease here and there really helped slow the leaks down

Your jacks know if they are up or down based on a simple float switch in the fluid reservoir. The switch is near the top of the tank, when the jacks come up, the tank fills with fluid, the switch “floats” and reports in that the jacks are up. When you extend the jacks, fluid moves out of the tank to push the jacks down, the switch “Sinks” and the jacks report down. The catch is if you are just a tiny bit low on fluid, even when the jacks are retracted, the switch won’t float up all the way (has to be 100% floating or nothing) and the jacks think they are down. If you have been leaking fluid you could be low enough that switch isn’t making contact. It takes very little fluid missing to throw it off.

Your tank should be up near the front drivers side storage bay. If you open the outside door and look in the top left corner over the bay through the gap, you will see the tank mounted up there with a bunch of hoses. (I’ve looked everywhere but I can’t find a pic) Adding fluid is pretty easy, it’s just transmission fluid you can buy at any auto store. (Dexron III) I bought a small hand pump that twisted onto the jug and had a small hose was perfect. Unless you have a major leak, one small jug should be plenty.

At the top of the cylinder there is a large bolt angled at a roughly 45 degree angle. Clean off any grit and crud around it, you want the area clean. With the jacks UP, (If down you will end up with too much fluid when you retract and bad days are coming) remove the nut, fill with fluid until just at the lip of the hole and reinsert nut.

This guy online actually replaces the float switch (that would be my plan B if the fluid doesn’t fix it, they are just a cheap contact switch) but towards the middle he adds fluid and his tank should look like yours if my memory is right.

https://youtu.be/72ajv0NYx28

Hope that helps!

[Blastvalve]

The only other thought I had, even with the battery disconnect switches used, I know at the very least the step motor still works when you open the door, there is definitely a few systems still there drawing power. I found 45 days unplugged would kill mine. If you want really kill things, disconnect the batteries by hand or get a switch like Gordie suggested, easy add and 100% effective.

[Ray,IN]

Originally Posted by Blastvalve

Your jacks know if they are up or down based on a simple float switch in the fluid reservoir. The switch is near the top of the tank, when the jacks come up, the tank fills with fluid, the switch “floats” and reports in that the jacks are up. When you extend the jacks, fluid moves out of the tank to push the jacks down, the switch “Sinks” and the jacks report down. The catch is if you are just a tiny bit low on fluid, even when the jacks are retracted, the switch won’t float up all the way (has to be 100% floating or nothing) and the jacks think they are down. If you have been leaking fluid you could be low enough that switch isn’t making contact. It takes very little fluid missing to throw it off.

Your tank should be up near the front drivers side storage bay. If you open the outside door and look in the top left corner over the bay through the gap, you will see the tank mounted up there with a bunch of hoses. (I’ve looked everywhere but I can’t find a pic) Adding fluid is pretty easy, it’s just transmission fluid you can buy at any auto store. (Dexron III) I bought a small hand pump that twisted onto the jug and had a small hose was perfect. Unless you have a major leak, one small jug should be plenty.

At the top of the cylinder there is a large bolt angled at a roughly 45 degree angle. Clean off any grit and crud around it, you want the area clean. With the jacks UP, (If down you will end up with too much fluid when you retract and bad days are coming) remove the nut, fill with fluid until just at the lip of the hole and reinsert nut.

This guy online actually replaces the float switch (that would be my plan B if the fluid doesn’t fix it, they are just a cheap contact switch) but towards the middle he adds fluid and his tank should look like yours if my memory is right.

https://youtu.be/72ajv0NYx28

Hope that helps!

That is Power Gear system, the HWH system uses reed switches at the top of each jack to determine full-up positon.

[Craig1960]

Originally Posted by OnTheMove2

Oh Craig...as to the surge protector, I do believe the poor thing has had all it can take I from my power issues. I hate to purchase another one, but I think I am going to have to do that. I am going to have to take a volt meter to my master panel to see if I am having too much power. I called out the utility company about two months ago and they said everything seemed okay. I really did not want to call them out again unless I can say more definitively that there is a high voltage issue.

I am going to start pulling all of my hair out soon LOL

Thanks for everything, Terry

I hear you Terry and hope you get it figured out soon so you can start really enjoying the rv.