Hot Water Heater Issue

[depchief]

The Atwood 10 gallon with DSI water heater in our coach will not run on propane with the cover in place.

The electric element is now defective due to not realizing the unit was energized when I drained the heater for the winter. When I wet to shut the inverter down after blowing out the system for the winter I noticed the switch was on for the electric heater, and being plugged in the element shorted out.
No having used the propane that often I never realized it did not run well.

I opened the air device on the burner to full hoping this would improve the operation. When I put the cover in place it began to stutter and shut down.
Any suggestions would be welcomed.

[onebrit]

Originally Posted by depchief

The Atwood 10 gallon with DSI water heater in our coach will not run on propane with the cover in place.

The electric element is now defective due to not realizing the unit was energized when I drained the heater for the winter. When I wet to shut the inverter down after blowing out the system for the winter I noticed the switch was on for the electric heater, and being plugged in the element shorted out.
No having used the propane that often I never realized it did not run well.

I opened the air device on the burner to full hoping this would improve the operation. When I put the cover in place it began to stutter and shut down.
Any suggestions would be welcomed.

Hi
It sound like you have a partial blockage in your air tube, this will allow a start up but will not run smoothly due to incorrect air mix. Suggest using a small bottle type brush and airline to clear out the tube.
Hope that helps you.
Onebrit.

[Ray,IN]

Clean and service your heater per the Atwood water heater service manual
Do NOT use anything to poke through the gas orifice or even use compressed air. The manual explains in detail.

[Old-Biscuit]

Air shutter should only expose the slots 1/4 way open

Dirty orifice, dirty burner tube will disrupt the fuel/air mixture

LP System is 11"WC (0.39psi) so it doesn't take much to cause imbalance between the gas & air for combustion
Single spider web will do it.

Just do some routine cleaning of the burner assembly and the propane should ignite/run
Blue flame/slight roar...adjust air shutter openings (doesn't take much)

Electric...
Bit more of a hassle due to Element being on backside of WH Tank under the protective cover

2002 vintage....will have AC set of t-stats under that cover also
Might have gotten lucky and the High Temp t-stat tripped....maybe
Use the eraser end of pencil to push/reset it via hole in cover
Also will be the Atwood OEM On/Off Switch on that cover FYI

[Hikerdogs]

Check with Winnebago for any service bulletins on the subject. There were several models of the same era that had similar problems. There wasn't sufficient air circulation in the cabinet and the over temp sensor was shutting off the gas. For some models they even offered a set of spacers to increase the air flow through the cabinet. I don't know if your specific coach was involved, but it would be worth your time to contact Winnebago to find out.

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by Hikerdogs

Check with Winnebago for any service bulletins on the subject. There were several models of the same era that had similar problems. There wasn't sufficient air circulation in the cabinet and the over temp sensor was shutting off the gas. For some models they even offered a set of spacers to increase the air flow through the cabinet. I don't know if your specific coach was involved, but it would be worth your time to contact Winnebago to find out.

That sounds like an airflow issue for FURNACE not a water heater

[Hikerdogs]

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

That sounds like an airflow issue for FURNACE not a water heater

This was definitely a water heater problem. The spacers increased the area between the door and the body side panel to allow more air to circulate. The Service Bulletin is 7SB008-03-01A

Here's a link to another thread where the user had the same problem and was looking for the spacers.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/atw...ers-79185.html

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by Hikerdogs

This was definitely a water heater problem. The spacers increased the area between the door and the body side panel to allow more air to circulate. The Service Bulletin is 7SB008-03-01A

Here's a link to another thread where the user had the same problem and was looking for the spacers.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/atw...ers-79185.html

THANKS!!!!

I can see how the space between outer compartment storage door and the water heater panel could affect airflow to the burner
Never liked 'hiding' the water heater access behind another compartment door
Sure the aesthetics look nice but can really affect the appliance functions as thery were NOT designed for that
Once again RV MFG designers messing things up...and installations are not proper

Again THANKS for that info....hadn't heard about that issue but then again Winnebago does lots of things 'different'

[Ray,IN]

My air shutter is 3/4 open and operates quietly. I set the shutter 1/4 open per the operator manual and it would not burn when I closed the door then the outer basement door.

[depchief]

I have adjusted the air to full open. The unit ran for a while and started to sputter after about 10 minutes.

The outside door was closed and when I opened it the condition did not really change.

There is a post above concerning this situation and aparently there was a service bullitin issued, but did not come up when I entered the number on WGO site. I believe is suggested using some type of shim to allow air the enter the burner area.

A UF owner has a fix for the condition and I will try it and hope for the best.

I think with the 2 doors closed the unit struggles to get enough air to sustain combustion

[JoeSR]

I have a similar problem with my Atwood running on propane, but it shows itself with changes in altitude.

I adjust the air shutter at home (~1000') for proper operation with both the Atwood door closed and the Winnebago compartment door closed. This works OK until ~5000'.

At 5000' I can readjust the air shutter or crack open the compartment door. I have done both. Usually I just unlatch the compartment door.

I have operated my water heater as high as 9000'. My memory is fuzzy but I think at 9000' the compartment door had to be unlatched and the MH entry door closed (the MH door swings over the water heater compartment).

One forum member suggested drilling 1" holes in the Atwood door. He claimed that to be the solution. It did not work for me.

I installed a new orifice - no change.
I cleaned the already clean burner tube - no change.

I now assume that this is another one of those undocumented Winnebago design features.

[onebrit]

Hi
Just want to qualify based on some criticism from another post I was referring to cleaning the air tube that carries the gas into the burner, no mention of cleaning the gas jet. It is perfectly safe to push a small brush through or blow through to clean out any rust deposits also spyder webs have been known to restrict air flow. The tube can easily be removed to do this.
Onebrit

[depchief]

As stated in the # 1 post concerning my goof with the electric element. well the replacement of the element turned into a major job. had to remove the entire water heater. Winnebago did not provide an access door or opening in the rear of the heater compartment.
Disconneted the radiator supply and return, hot and cold water and electic in order to get out.
Note to Winnebago hope you realize rear access should have a means of replacing the element with out a labor intensive job.

[onebrit]

Hi
Just curious how did we get from an air flow issue which is gas burner related to replacing the element ?
Sure sounds a bit confusing hope you can clarify.
Good luck sounds like it turned into quite a project.
Kindest Regards
Onebrit