Community Forums

SantinoDad · 05-25-2022, 10:10 AM

I have a 2016 Winnebago Minnie Winnie 22r with a Suburban Water Heater SW6D. I just completed removal and replacement of the Anode Rod. From what I have researched on this forum and Youtube, I hooked up to City Water, opened the kitchen and bathroom sink faucets and then turned on the water from the City Water hookup. Water ran from both sinks..
Question: How do I know water has refilled in the hot water tank reservoir?

I don't want to test out the hot water heater unless I know there is water in the tank so I don't burn out my heating element?

Am I good with the steps I have taken so far to be confident I have refilled the water in my hot water tank? (Suburban Water Heater SW6D)

be-happy · 05-25-2022, 10:24 AM

You can instead of running water out of the faucets, as you may have bypassed the water heater. You could open the presser relief value at the top of your water heater and see if water comes out.

Make sure you have the water heater bypass valves in the correct position to fill the tank. If you winterized the unit yourself you should have changed the direction of the water by using the bypass valves.

Old-Biscuit · 05-25-2022, 10:33 AM

Did you change the Bypass Valve position?
Check that it is set for Normal

Water supply on
Open nearest faucet HOTSIDE...should blow air out while WH Tank is filling then blow water when full

*T&P Relief valve
Opening it can disrupt/displace the naturally forming air pocket in top of tank which helps control pressure increases from heating the water
Water swells when heated and w/o air pocket the pressure increase can cause T&P Relief valve to Weep

carybosse · 05-25-2022, 12:10 PM

I don't have any bypass valves, as far as I know. So, if the spigot for hot water has water flow, I know I have water in the tank.

Another option is to crack the anode drain plug slightly and see if you have water dripping out. Depending on if you are using teflon tape or plumber's goop, either way, it should still seal back up when you tighten.

If you wanted to check as you buttoned things back up, not tightening the anode plug when you replaced, turn on water, look for water dripping, then tighten up till leak stops.

SantinoDad · 05-25-2022, 01:01 PM

I turned my water pump switch on and it ran for about 30+ seconds then shut off. I am interpreting this to mean it was topping off my water heater tank. Going to fire up water heater! Wish me luck!

Old-Biscuit · 05-25-2022, 01:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SantinoDad

I turned my water pump switch on and it ran for about 30+ seconds then shut off. I am interpreting this to mean it was topping off my water heater tank. Going to fire up water heater! Wish me luck!

Did you open a faucet HOTSIDE to bled air out/allow WH Tank to fill completely?

Bigd9 · 05-25-2022, 01:34 PM

Like has been posted, simply turn on a hot water faucet inside the RV, when air stops coming out, and water come out instead, then the tank is full.

In general, cold water enters the tank at the bottom of the tank, and hot water exits the tank from the top of the tank. Here is a generalized picture of the tank.

Ray,IN · 05-26-2022, 03:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SantinoDad

I turned my water pump switch on and it ran for about 30+ seconds then shut off. I am interpreting this to mean it was topping off my water heater tank. Going to fire up water heater! Wish me luck!

NOPE! That merely means the system has pressurized. Incoming water has compressed air in the system until the pump shut-off switch activated.

Do as previously stated by other replies; open a faucet or the over-pressure valve near the top of the water heater. until water flows without any air "burping"

LETMGROW · 05-26-2022, 05:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

Did you change the Bypass Valve position?
Check that it is set for Normal

Water supply on
Open nearest faucet HOTSIDE...should blow air out while WH Tank is filling then blow water when full

*T&P Relief valve
Opening it can disrupt/displace the naturally forming air pocket in top of tank which helps control pressure increases from heating the water
Water swells when heated and w/o air pocket the pressure increase can cause T&P Relief valve to Weep

The T&P valve to me is a DFWI (Don't Fool With It) item. I have seen more than one seep and drip after opening it. These valves are a trap for corrosion and calcium build up. Pop the valve open and it may never seal again properly. If it ain't broke, don't try to fix it.
When I dewinterize I fill my fresh water tank by using my onboard pump or use my shore line water inlet to supply water to my coach. After checking to be sure the By-Pass valve is positioned properly I make sure all the faucets in my coach turned off. Then I turn the water supply and a hot water faucet on. You may or may not see some pink antifreeze come out of the faucet if you used antifreeze but you should hear air coming out followed by a gurgling sound as the tank is filling. Let the water run until the gurgling stops snd you get a steady water flow. That's all you need to do. The air pocket above the water level in the water heater tank will take care of itself.
I usually check for the air pocket in my tank a couple times during the camping season. To do this I shut the water off, drain a gallon or so out of the water heater, reinstall the drain plug then turn the water back on and purge the tank by opening a hot water valve on until I get a steady flow of water through the faucet.
Because I have had problems before with the relief valve on one of my campers I carry a new replacement in my spare parts box just in case.

Winemaker2 · 05-26-2022, 05:38 AM

"The T&P valve to me is a DFWI (Don't Fool With It) item. I have seen more than one seep and drip after opening it. These valves are a trap for corrosion and calcium build up. Pop the valve open and it may never seal again properly. If it ain't broke, don't try to fix it."
I agree and don't recall ever messing with a T&P valve.
The clear indicator is when filling... either using pump or shore water.... you may get a slug of water but the amount of air and time to purge is significant... not just a gurgle, spit of air & water but steady air flow.

NXR · 05-26-2022, 06:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Winemaker2

"The T&P valve to me is a DFWI (Don't Fool With It) item. I have seen more than one seep and drip after opening it. These valves are a trap for corrosion and calcium build up. Pop the valve open and it may never seal again properly. If it ain't broke, don't try to fix it."

I agree and don't recall ever messing with a T&P valve.

When draining my water heater I open the T&P valve to admit air because I have the winterization valves set to winterization to avoid draining the inside water system.

When filling the water heater after cleaning I open the T&P valve and flip it shut when water starts spurting out.

Then I run the water heater solely on propane to assure I have hot water inside. Then I turn the electric heating element on.

The T&P valve is the over-temperature and over-pressure safety device. I want to be darn certain that thing has not been frozen in place or otherwise rendered inoperable by calcium or other problems. If it starts seeping and flipping the lever a few times when the water inside is cool doesn't seat the valve you replace it. They're cheap.

Ray

winnie32v · 05-27-2022, 09:12 AM

FYI,
Years ago a plumber friend showed me a very valuable item.
If you have a pressure valve that is dripping, give the shaft a gentle tap with a hammer.
I have done this several times and it has stopped the drip every time. I recently did this to the new valve on my new water heater. The 'tap' will help to seat the valve to the opening.

Certainly worth a try before removing and replacing............

LETMGROW · 05-28-2022, 07:02 AM

While I don't play with my relief valve I have had a couple start to drip over the years. I changed the valve in my class A a couple years ago when it started leaking. When I changed the valve I screwed a short pipe nipple into the valve then added a length of automotive hose clamped to the nipple so the hose would reach to near the bottom of the heater. If I get drips in the future at least they aren't soaking the electronics. The drips just leak out the bottom of the heater door. If I did want to crack the valve open I can do it now without soaking the whole inside of the heater including the data labels on the sides and the bottom of the heater case.
These valves are available at most if not all hardware stores. There are at least two sizes used on water heaters. In my shopping though I found the correct valve at a local RV dealer ship for less than a dollar more than a big box store. I bought the valve and a spare at the dealer's because I preferred to support a smaller business who has been helpful to me in the past. Unless there is a huge difference in price I always buy from the dealer even though I bought my coach from an individual.