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Old 08-08-2022, 07:42 PM   #1
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Kwikee Level Best 3000 issue

Good evening all and hopefully someone will read this that has this problem, and knows the fix. I can't seem to find any other blogs on the issue. I just bought a 2006 Itasca Sunrise in really good condition. Unfortunately both rear leveling jacks were trashed so I purchased 2 new Atlas Jacks and installed them last week. After filling the fluid tank under the pump and valve assembly, I could not get any response out of the touchpad on the door. A few blogs later, someone mentioned unplugging the controller from it's power source for 60 seconds to reset it. It kind of worked. I could now get a response out of the different functions on the controller. The problem is, whatever button I push, the pump comes on for a few seconds, then shuts off. I have to shut off the control pad and turn it back on to get the touch pad to respond again. I hit the button and the pump comes back on. The longer I leave the control pad off, the longer the pump will run when I turn it back on. All of the jacks seem to respond as directed by the button I push, and I can eventually get it level by lowering the back two cylinders, then the front two, then either left or right two to complete the leveling process. I am leaning towards it being a problem with the touchpad control in the door, but I could be wrong. Maybe there is a sensor in the Solenoid manifold that is causing this problem. Or a valve that is not opening or closing properly. I would like to just get to my location and hit the auto level and watch it do it's thing. It's a pleasure to have joined this forum and hoping someone out there has the answer to my problem. I have learned a lot from other posts I have read here, and I hope I will someday have the answers to what others are looking for.
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Old 08-09-2022, 06:35 AM   #2
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You might start here and find both the Operator Manual and the Troubleshooting Guide for your system. It appears Kwikee/Lippert have produced some pretty good documentation to follow.

If you still can’t figure it out, either a call to Kwikee might be the next step, or, list what you are seeing (what lights are coming on, what action is being taken, what buttons are being pushed) in a step by step manner, not as one long continuous paragraph.
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Old 08-09-2022, 08:40 AM   #3
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My guess is that there is either a loose/intermittent connection somewhere or something is heating up on the control board that causes it to stop working. Maybe even a bad solder connection on the board.

Here's an older repair manual that might be of some help.

2003 Kwikee 3000 Service Manual

On the Atlas replacements,,, I never thought about trying to find a different brand jack when I replaced mine a few years ago. Were modifications required to get them installed? Might you have the part number? Where you bought them?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 08-09-2022, 12:35 PM   #4
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To date, I have had four different failures with my Kwik Level Best system:

1. The left rear cylinder would not extend. Replaced controller. There was no 12V control signal at the rear cylinder hydraulic valve. I believe that the controller’s PCB was crack. There was a heavy cable behind the controller. I think that Winnebago cracked the PCB when they forced the controller into the door.
2. System went to LA-LA Land and would not respond to my inputs at the controller. Disconnected all of the cables at the controller – waited x minutes – reconnected and everything worked fine. It has been working for several years now.
3. Intermittent retract. All cylinders. Corroded 12V power connections at the hydraulic pump solenoid. Cleaned, reconnected and it has been working since. (It failed during the retract cycle, but it could have failed next time during the extend cycle.)
4. Failure to detect all jacks retracted. Cleaned the magnetic switch connector contacts on the RF jack. I am not sure that this was the problem. Time will tell.

I don’t know if any of this will help, but that has been my experience.
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Old 08-10-2022, 04:35 PM   #5
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The issue with replacing the controller is, they aren't available. I did see on on ebay that had the same plug in connection as mine, and was aftermarket. It plugged into my plugs, and they was controlled from an Android app. The cost was $550. If I knew that was my problem, and this android app controller worked, I would go for it. First I'll try cleaning the connections on the pump manifold. Thank you for the great input.
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Old 08-10-2022, 09:02 PM   #6
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Since the hydraulic system was opened it now contains air, which must be purged out of the system before it will operate correctly if you haven't already.
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Old 08-11-2022, 02:12 PM   #7
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From what I have read, they are self bleeding. The literature I read said to run them in and out several times to accomplish this. I have done that. If there is a specific way to bleed them, that might make a difference, please tell me that procedure. Thanks all.
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Old 08-12-2022, 01:50 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Madbeachfl View Post
From what I have read, they are self bleeding. The literature I read said to run them in and out several times to accomplish this. I have done that. If there is a specific way to bleed them, that might make a difference, please tell me that procedure. Thanks all.

That is correct, with one caveat; each time everything is fully retracted the oil level in the reservoir must be topped off to the full line.
Only when the oil level remains the same for a few cycles is the process finished. Allow some cooling time for the motor and pump assy between each cycle so you don't burn up something.
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