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Old 09-12-2005, 05:55 PM   #1
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Has anyone ever attempted to replace their own waste dump valve? My dump cap is holding back about one cup of waste after the coach sets for a week. What a mess when you remove the cap to attach the dump hose. DEERJOHN
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Old 09-12-2005, 05:55 PM   #2
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Has anyone ever attempted to replace their own waste dump valve? My dump cap is holding back about one cup of waste after the coach sets for a week. What a mess when you remove the cap to attach the dump hose. DEERJOHN
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Old 09-13-2005, 07:36 AM   #3
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I have replaced both valves, there a trick to get at and work on, but it is possible. Even after repairing both valves I still get a little water at the cap when I remove it. So here is my cure for the problem: Sewer cap drain take a look it's a easy fix.
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Old 09-13-2005, 11:29 AM   #4
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What a great idea, I for sure will do this one...
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Old 09-13-2005, 01:28 PM   #5
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After emptying and flush the tank all one has to do is jack up the side with the outlets on. Thus anything remaining would run to the opposite side and the coach would be nice and high to do you valve replacement.
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Old 09-18-2005, 01:04 AM   #6
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You may want to check out the twist on waste valve at camping world. Remove dust cover and put valve in its place, if needed they also have 45 and 90 degree fittings to extend if ncessary. Fix cost about 35 dolars. I did this on my 2000 Suncruiser. Works fine.
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Old 09-18-2005, 01:36 AM   #7
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N8XV, Great idea.
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Old 09-18-2005, 04:45 AM   #8
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Have changed mine on my Ultimate Advantage. You must remove access panels to get to the valve assembly. Then remove the black valve, and with the black valve removed you can remove the rubber boot clamps on the tanks and remove the whole assembly. You can then change the grey valve on the bench and reassemble save the black valve and reinstall.

One problem, when Winnebago originally builds the coach they don't align the clamps on the rubber boots so you can remove them. I had to cut the original clamps off.
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