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Old 09-19-2020, 03:59 PM   #1
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My approach to resealing the edge rail of a Winni fiberglass roof.

If you don't want your fiberglass roof getting ripped off by the wind while driving down the road you have to inspect and repair the sealant that holds the edge of the roof in the rail along the side of the roof.

When Winnebago does it they put a bead of sealant down in the gap but most of it gets pushed back out because the roof is under compression and closes the gap and the sealant is forced into.

I decided to see if I could improve this by shimming the roof before applying the sealant.

This is what the first section looks like when I put in the shims. After shimming I cleaned it up some,swabbed the area out with alcohol, and blew out the dirt.

I have placed a bead of geocel in the gap created by the shim, not completely filling the channel but trying to get it down at least 1/2 of the way to the bottom of the channel.

After it dries I'll remove the wires and touch up the gaps.

Any criticism or comments are welcome before I do more segments of the roof like this.

Any suggestions on a tool to use to get the sealant out of the gap would be appreciated. I used a razor knife and a single edge razor. They work but the razor knife scratches the roof and both are hard on the fingers.

If there is interest I'll post an after image.
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Old 09-19-2020, 05:01 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cruizerEd View Post
If you don't want your fiberglass roof getting ripped off by the wind while driving down the road you have to inspect and repair the sealant that holds the edge of the roof in the rail along the side of the roof.

When Winnebago does it they put a bead of sealant down in the gap but most of it gets pushed back out because the roof is under compression and closes the gap and the sealant is forced into.

I decided to see if I could improve this by shimming the roof before applying the sealant.

This is what the first section looks like when I put in the shims. After shimming I cleaned it up some,swabbed the area out with alcohol, and blew out the dirt.

I have placed a bead of geocel in the gap created by the shim, not completely filling the channel but trying to get it down at least 1/2 of the way to the bottom of the channel.

After it dries I'll remove the wires and touch up the gaps.

Any criticism or comments are welcome before I do more segments of the roof like this.

Any suggestions on a tool to use to get the sealant out of the gap would be appreciated. I used a razor knife and a single edge razor. They work but the razor knife scratches the roof and both are hard on the fingers.

If there is interest I'll post an after image.
I don't want to give you extra work. But just showing that one Close-up doesn't give much of an Idea What you're actually working on and where. Can you Back up a lil to show where it's at. Because I can't find anything of the sort on mine. They say mine is crowned 1 piece fiberglass roof. I'm sure yours is too and I'm just missing something.
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Old 09-19-2020, 08:39 PM   #3
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i found that a A 5 In One Painter's Tool worked well, a Linoleum Knife may work as well

https://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=m...inter%27s+Tool

https://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=m...Linoleum+Knife

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Old 09-19-2020, 10:08 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RightUR View Post
I don't want to give you extra work. But just showing that one Close-up doesn't give much of an Idea What you're actually working on and where. Can you Back up a lil to show where it's at. Because I can't find anything of the sort on mine. They say mine is crowned 1 piece fiberglass roof. I'm sure yours is too and I'm just missing something.
This picture of a cross section might help some. Another forum member posted it years ago; he took the picture in a dealer's showroom. If you click on the image, it should enlarge.

Those foam pieces in the curved section are pre-cut and are not glued in place nor is the fiberglass roofing glued in that area (the luan/fiberglass on the flat area of the roof though is, in fact, glued to the foam.) Adhesive sealant in the "J" rail (AKA the awning rail) is what holds the fiberglass in place around that curve. If that sealant is not maintained, a gust of strong sidewind can get under there and rip large sections of the fiberglass roof off....... and it has happened. IMHO it is a fine design, but maintenance is critical.....check that area often.

The OP used shims to help ensure that the adhesive sealant got to the bottom ..... more surface contact, more adhesion. Good idea, methinks. Others have used a tool to hold the fiberglass back and moved the tool along (close to the nozzle) as they apply the sealant; as I read their posts, that seems to work well, also.

I believe there are other WBGO roof designs/configurations, but a great many (most?) of the roofs are as depicted in the pic.

Best............. and stay safe.
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Old 09-19-2020, 10:08 PM   #5
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I'm not sure that is a good approach. I believe the seam uses the compression to hold the roof wrapping and the sealant just keeps it from opening up and releasing.

There are several Winnebago How Write-ups on it

Winnebago Roof to Sidewall Sealant Tip
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Old 09-20-2020, 05:19 AM   #6
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Thank for the cross section image to help explain, the tool tip, and the Winnebago documentation which I will review now.
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Old 09-20-2020, 05:26 AM   #7
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Thank you for the cross section, the tool recommendation, and the Winnebago documentation.
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Old 09-20-2020, 10:08 AM   #8
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The Winnebago recommended product (can't find the link on my phone) is a Manus bond (sp?) Adhesive. I'm not sure which one is used, but the adhesive has a shear strength of 250 - 750 psi.
I did some repairs on mine 6 or 7 years ago. When I checked the roof last week, all of the seams, including the 14 yr old factory original, were still solid and pliable/soft.

Ken
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Old 09-20-2020, 11:31 AM   #9
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A couple of years ago we had a 70+mph wind overnight. The next morning I found some strange looking Styrofoam pieces laying arond and not having the slightest clue what they were I assumed they had blown over from one of the neighbors. Later that day I noticed the roof panel on my 2000 Adventurer was sticking up. Upon investigating I found were they had come from. I went through the neighbor's cornfield and found back most of the pieces. I cleaned out the rail and put the pieces back in as best I could. I used Lexan sealant from the local lumber yard and also some self tapping screws to help secure it and it's still in there. I don't understand that Winnebago did not use some type of mechanical fasteners to hold it down.
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Old 09-20-2020, 01:15 PM   #10
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A mechanical fastener sounds like a good idea. I guess this works good enough from their perspective.

One thing to mention is it looks like it is important to be sure not to trap water in the channel. If it tops the channel it will leak into the wall and delaminate the wall.
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Old 09-20-2020, 07:58 PM   #11
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When I cleaned out the channels to reseal my roof edges I used some tools from this kit.

https://www.harborfreight.com/nylon-...-pc-63594.html
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Old 09-21-2020, 05:02 AM   #12
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That is an excellent suggestion. Those probably will have lots of uses.
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Old 09-21-2020, 05:29 AM   #13
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I check my roof yearly. You just push on the bottom of the roof edge to see if it is separated from the j channel. A slow process but it has to be done. The 5 in 1 tool works great for cleaning out the channel of the loose areas. Manus bond 75m is the recommended adhesive. I get mine from amazon. You have to push the tip of the caulk tube into the channel to get the stuff to the bottom . When the roof pushes back you will wipe the excess off.
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Old 09-22-2020, 07:03 AM   #14
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My 2006 journey blew off in back from high winds in texas, Had to fix it in a rv park to get us home. IMOO the roof design is [Mod Edit]. Why should you have to get up there 2 times a year to check the seam after spending that kind of money. The roof should be down in the channel 1/2 inch, some times the factory doesn't get it in there 1/8 inch. We love our MH but this and the paint (clear coat peeling) is horrible!

Don
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