Community Forums

kwftlaud · 07-01-2022, 11:58 AM

Hello
I have a Norcold N822F refrigerator in my 2001 Itasca Sundancer

The refrigerator worked fine, except The On/Off button did not work.
I used it this last memorial day and it worked great.
I was able to control the temp, and switch between gas and AC, I just could not shut it off.

When I got home I pulled the fuse at the power center ( 5 Amp ) because I didn't want it on, I wasn't going to be plugged into shore power, and I didn't want to leave it try to operate on gas with the gas off. It made sense to me to just pull the fuse to it.

Well now nothing works. I know its getting power. The fuses are all good. The board is getting power. And, a relay in the center of the control board is warm. So, its getting power.
No lights on the display, no lights inside the refrigerator.

Any idea what to do?
Replace the control board? Display Board? Both?

Thanks for any feedback

Kip

kwftlaud · 07-01-2022, 01:34 PM

Sorry, I need to update

After spending 4 hours searching on the internet, checking power inputs ect, I decided I was going to hot wire the AC heating element to see if the unit would cool down.
I pulled the wires off, and went to look for a AC lead to connect to the heating element.
I went back into the RV to get some tape, and low and behold, the display was on showing an "A".
Now , everything seems to be working.
I put the unit on LP and will let it cool down to see if that works
( gas did light and come on )
Tonight , if its cooling, I'll switch to AC to make sure that works too.

I am perplexed as to why it didn't work this morning.
Maybe my batteries were low.
My old RV has solar panels on it and I never did worry about power with that.
These batteries were not connected to shore power, or charged by the engine since June 1. Maybe that was the issue.

Sorry to post a non issue,

Kip

Old-Biscuit · 07-01-2022, 01:48 PM

Operating controls require 10.5 to 15.4 Vdc to operate

Fridge Defend · 07-02-2022, 05:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kwftlaud

Sorry, I need to update

After spending 4 hours searching on the internet, checking power inputs ect, I decided I was going to hot wire the AC heating element to see if the unit would cool down.
I pulled the wires off, and went to look for a AC lead to connect to the heating element.
I went back into the RV to get some tape, and low and behold, the display was on showing an "A".
Now , everything seems to be working.
I put the unit on LP and will let it cool down to see if that works
( gas did light and come on )
Tonight , if its cooling, I'll switch to AC to make sure that works too.

I am perplexed as to why it didn't work this morning.
Maybe my batteries were low.
My old RV has solar panels on it and I never did worry about power with that.
These batteries were not connected to shore power, or charged by the engine since June 1. Maybe that was the issue.

Sorry to post a non issue,

Kip

Yes, there is a upper and lower limit for the power input, the fridge will turn off if out of range.

TIP: We had a customer with a similar problem, they had power and ground at the Norcold control, but the fridge would work intermittent.

After much work searching for the problem it was the 12V fuse on the circuit board. It had an intermittent connection due to the circuit board connector having a bad connection. The owner crimped the connection to establish a better contact with the fuse, and boom, no more issues

Old-Biscuit · 07-02-2022, 05:45 PM

These batteries were not connected to shore power, or charged by the engine since June 1. Maybe that was the issue.

2 weeks PLUS can draw a battery voltage down due to parasitic loads

Fridge Defend · 07-03-2022, 05:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

These batteries were not connected to shore power, or charged by the engine since June 1. Maybe that was the issue.

2 weeks PLUS can draw a battery voltage down due to parasitic loads

This is a good comment.

If you have parasitic loads that draw down your battery that fast, it could be a good idea to try and find the source of the loads that drain the batteries. Use your master power kill switch (if you have one) to turn off all loads (in theory) on the batteries, and measure what loads still exist?

These loads will kill your batteries eventually if you do not do something about them. Often the fridge is not wired through the master power kill switch, so this may be one of the loads?

Just a small solar panel can help lengthen the life of your batteries

Old-Biscuit · 07-03-2022, 11:19 AM

Unless fridge is wired directly to battery its dc would go thru a disconnect switch

Parasitic loads are LP Detectors, Radio Memories, Electonics etc and usually do not go thru the battery disconnect switch

Few amps over 2 week period will drain a battery. Read about it here on IRV2 frequently.
June 1 - June 30.........not surprised battery voltage would be down