One Side Lower Rear Cap Fell Off

LeeB · 01-24-2016, 08:07 PM

It looks like the fiberglass WAS attached to some metal pieces and they were attached to the Motor Home. I am thinking vibration over the years helped break it loose.

Looks like I can repair by using some Stainless Steel 1/4 x 20 nuts and bolts.

Has anyone else experienced this problem?

We just did our first Major Trip and WOW what a shake down..

Mr Miyagi · 01-24-2016, 09:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LeeB

It looks like the fiberglass WAS attached to some metal pieces and they were attached to the Motor Home. I am thinking vibration over the years helped break it loose.

Looks like I can repair by using some Stainless Steel 1/4 x 20 nuts and bolts.

Has anyone else experienced this problem?

We just did our first Major Trip and WOW what a shake down..

Can you post photos of the area?

LeeB · 01-24-2016, 09:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr Miyagi

Can you post photos of the area?

Yes but it will have to wait til tomorrow.....

Arch Hoagland · 01-24-2016, 10:06 PM

Have you contacted your insurance company to see if they will cover the repairs?

You'd be surprised at what they cover.

Ranger Smith · 01-25-2016, 03:15 AM

I had a 2007 and those self tappers were always coming out and the fiberglass vibrating. I used some 1/4" and #10 screws with locking nuts and no more issues. It is a common problem with them

ChasA · 01-25-2016, 07:32 AM

Probably the old and well-known glue joint failure. Winnebago glues the metal to the fiberglass. Problem is that the metal is painted or coated and the coating comes off the metal.

LeeB · 01-25-2016, 08:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arch Hoagland

Have you contacted your insurance company to see if they will cover the repairs?

You'd be surprised at what they cover.

With $500 deductible I can fix for much less. But thanks

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChasA

Probably the old and well-known glue joint failure. Winnebago glues the metal to the fiberglass. Problem is that the metal is painted or coated and the coating comes off the metal.

I have a feeling that is exactly what it is... Thanks

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ranger Smith

I had a 2007 and those self tappers were always coming out and the fiberglass vibrating. I used some 1/4" and #10 screws with locking nuts and no more issues. It is a common problem with them

Yup road trip to Ace Hardware...... Thanks..

Arch Hoagland · 01-25-2016, 10:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LeeB

With $500 deductible I can fix for much less. But thanks

I have a feeling that is exactly what it is... Thanks

Yup road trip to Ace Hardware...... Thanks..

Ah...I thought the cap had fallen off and envisioned a lot of work. Good to know all you have to do is reattach some parts.

Kelm130 · 01-25-2016, 03:06 PM

Mine were loose also. Just get some stainless steel button head bolts and nylon lock nuts. The button head bolts don't look too bad. Bolt depot.com has a good variety, the shipping is a little high for a few bolts but they have sizes you can't find in the big box stores.

NMBluept · 01-25-2016, 04:25 PM

This pretty common with Winnebago products. The rear cap on my 2002 Horizon came loose and just a few months ago I found the engine access cover on my 2011 Meridian had come loose from the pneumatic lifters. I have had good luck using Locktite Premium construction adhesive to reattach the fiberglass to metal parts. The big box home improvement stores carry it. I have heard of folks using JB Weld also. Of course one can also buy the Winnebago epoxy - $$. Whatever adhesive is used the key is to get all surfaces clean and free of oil/grease. I use Purple Power and warm water followed with isopropyl alcohol (ipa). If there is a way of aligning the parts the old adhesive can be removed. On the rear cap on the Horizon I left the old adhesive to serve as locators for aligning the metal brackets to the fiberglass. I removed the rear cap and mounting brackets from the coach, put down some cardboard, got a bunch of spring clamps and started putting the brackets back on. When cured it was solid for a couple of years until I traded the coach in.

LeeB · 01-26-2016, 10:52 AM

Before and After..... 1/4 x 20 SS with Ny-Locks

Mr Miyagi · 01-26-2016, 10:55 PM

Thanks for posting photos. Looks like you performed a clean and inexpensive fix. Now I have to check our lower rear cap to see how it's hanging...

Ranger Smith · 01-27-2016, 03:29 AM

Check all your side panels and fender areas too. That is where mine were loose

ladagobago · 01-27-2016, 04:00 AM

I had bumped a guard rail with my rear cap which required me to remove the entire rear frame of my DP, which held the lower cap (bumper). Straighten the frame easy enough but found the double sided tape used by WB had let loose on some of the plastic stiffener box attached to the back side. I reglued them after properly cleaning the surfaces. had to also fix the nasty cracks on the corner of the ABS cap, reinforce the cap from the inside, body filler, and paint. Saved big bucks DIY> I also learned not to try a U turn when stopping next to a guard rail. OUCH

charles tuit · 01-27-2016, 06:08 AM

Stainless steel button head bolts and nuts both front and rear.

LeeB · 01-27-2016, 09:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr Miyagi

Thanks for posting photos. Looks like you performed a clean and inexpensive fix. Now I have to check our lower rear cap to see how it's hanging...

Your welcome 1/4 SS Nuts and Bolts worked just fine.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ranger Smith

Check all your side panels and fender areas too. That is where mine were loose

I'll check them thanks for the heads up

Quote:

Originally Posted by charles tuit

Stainless steel button head bolts and nuts both front and rear.

Thought about buttons but my MH not being pristine I could not find buttons and wanted to get-er-done... Pssssst I did order and few buttons to have on hand..... Thanks