Parts suggestion basement ac/heat pump Model #6535A871

[Don Holden]

I have a basement ac/heat pump on my 2002 winnebago. Model #6535A871
want to replace all capacitors and other components

I followed Duner manual and removed the unit and it is outside the RV on blocks. Since I have it out I want to replace everything possible. I have owned since new 2022 and it is having no issues, but want to be proactive and really don't want to remove it again.

Who is the best pricing and it appears many of these parts in 20+ years are maybe supersceded since I can't find them on the web.

Can you tell me what replaces the following
qty 2 of 1499-567 370volt poc 40/70/21 run capacitor
qty 2 of 1497-086 165vac 88-108mfd start capacitor
qty 1 of poc705a 370 vac fan capacitor
qty 1 of aerovox sh 1238 MM 10000 AFC on squirrel cage attached to electric motor
qty 2 of compressor relay 12vdc
qty 1 of circuit board
qty 1 of squirrel cage
qty 1 of electric motor has long shaft
qty 1 of squirrel cage smaller
qty 1 of electric motor

Thanks in advance

[Ray,IN]

6535 service manual: https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...GI4N2U4N2MzODE

New parts sold here: https://www.adventurerv.net/blower-w...93guai398ng3j2
AFAIK, this is the replacement compressor: https://www.sidharvey.com/item/RKA55...000-BTU-115-1/ This tecumseh compressor is widely available; R-22 refrigerant,is very hard to find, and expensive though. Thankfully there are replacements: https://forane.arkema.com/en/forane-...-drop-in-myth/

[Duner]

Glad to hear you got the unit out ok.
First of all, if it's running well, I suggest that you do NOT disturb any parts that seem to be working just fine. The unit is 21 yrs old and may not have a lot of hours of run time. I think new capacitors from China are less reliable than original 21 yr old caps. It really depends on how much the unit was run with low a/c shore power ... less than 110 v is hard on the caps. I have a Hughes Autoformer to boost low voltage and have never lost a starting capacitor.

There are a few exceptions:
1) Replace the brass bearings with ball bearing type (Grainger).
2) Replace the Outdoor Blower metal squirrel cage with new composite plastic one from link in Ray's posting above.
3) Move the outdoor blower motor start/run capacitor to the electrical box with the other caps so it can easily be accessed without pulling the whole unit. You have to add about 1 ft to each of the 2 conductors.

If the Outdoor blower motor shaft has very little play then the motor should last a long time with new squirrel cage and new ball bearing out at the end of the shaft. A new motor will cost $500-600 if they even have it in stock. If the shaft play seems too much, take it to a electric motor shop and have it rebuilt with new bearings. It cost me $115 to have new motor bearings installed a couple of year ago.

My Indoor blower motor/squirrel cage/start/run cap is still original and I have a ton of hours on my unit. Just replace the brass bearing with sealed ball bearing.

I don't think any circuit board parts wear out so don't touch it. If it does quit some day they are available and you don't have to pull the unit to replace it.

If it fires right up and runs for hours now and later on a hot day, that tells me all the start/run caps and start relays are good.

Clean all the dirt out of the coils real good and install all new foam around the air inlet and outlets. If there's not much rust it probably doesn't have a ton of hours run time. If it has a lot of rust it could the winter roads in Iowa or it has a lot of run time. Straighten out all the bent coil fins using a comb. I bought a set of combs from Harbor Freight for a few dollars and then painted the outside coils flat black and it looks like new.

Good luck,
Bill

[Ray,IN]

Bill, that blower fan link is yours, I have it in my bookmarks.