Resealing my roof edges

[DryCreek]

Just finished the same task this last weekend. I used about a tube and a third of the Manus Bond 75AM (white) to do both sides of a Sightseer 29R. Since the MH is a 2006 model, I thought that it was quite possible that some areas could have been OEM applied. I used plastic putty knives (didn't want to damage the fiberglass) and packing picks to clean the channel. After it was done I blew it clear with air, and then thoroughly cleaned the area with dish soap and hot water. After it dried I used Isopropyl Alcohol as recommended in the Winnebago Service Tips sheet I found online. I made sure that the roof edge pulled back from the aluminum channel as I pumped in the sealant - I wanted a good bond. If I were to use the same size bead as the factory did, I am sure that I would have used one tube or less! I bought my two tubes through Amazon.com and it was sold by Winnebago Industries. It was about $9 per tube.

While doing this, I noticed that the edges extended all the way down to the bottom of the channel. I guess there was a string of years where they had cut the roof radius edge too short and it barely went into the channels. I suspect those were the roofs most likely to blow out from a stiff crosswind.

Since I have about two-thirds of a tube left, I will also look at all of the other places where "Sealant D" is called out on the sheet. The roof to front cap seam looked excellent, as did the roof to rear cap seam (although it had lap sealant).

[JFC1]

Have '01 Journey...no problems w/gutter joints...think should do reseal anyway??

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by JFC1

Have '01 Journey...no problems w/gutter joints...think should do reseal anyway??

When you say "no problem", are you just visualizing the joints, full length, both sides? Or, are you doing the PUSH TEST? That is, you gently push in or on the fiberglass, directly above the sealant, to see if it's a false joint. In other words, it can LOOK like it's well attached to both the fiberglass and the gutter edge but, when pushed on, it breaks away with ease. If you can't push it away from the sealant, then your joint is truly in good shape. And why mess with something that's still working perfectly, no matter how old it is.
Scott

[bruceh]

Originally Posted by smlranger

I think something just prevented a good seal of the tape in Bruce's case. I used 2" eternabond on that seam on a 2002 Journey. It was still stuck fast 8 years later when we traded the coach.

I find it interesting that several you just assumed that I screwed up the installation while ignoring the Eternabond customer service rep telling me that Eternabond has no mechanical strength. I scrubbed everything with acetone and then used the Eternabond prep spray.

It did last 6 years, I couldn't have done that bad a job.

In fairness to Eternabond, I spend a lot of time camped in windy spots where the wind comes in from the side. Maybe if it weren't challenged, it would have help up.

I like Eternabond for fixing leaks and I have repaired awnings with it.

May you be lucky and not have yours come undone.

[JFC1]

Yes, just visual...will do "push" test. Thanks!!

[millsrv]

Originally Posted by bruceh

I find it interesting that several you just assumed that I screwed up the installation while ignoring the Eternabond customer service rep telling me that Eternabond has no mechanical strength. I scrubbed everything with acetone and then used the Eternabond prep spray.

It did last 6 years, I couldn't have done that bad a job.

In fairness to Eternabond, I spend a lot of time camped in windy spots where the wind comes in from the side. Maybe if it weren't challenged, it would have help up.

I like Eternabond for fixing leaks and I have repaired awnings with it.

May you be lucky and not have yours come undone.

Like you clearly state 6 years have past, so based on your experience that does not look good for those of us that have it.

As far as removing Eternabond goes they recommend a heat gun, good luck.