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Old 04-03-2009, 12:52 PM   #1
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Toad Light Voltage Missing

Recently, clearance light voltage is not available at the RV Toad connector on our 05 Journey 39f. Using a pin to pierce the wiring insulation indicates voltage is not coming to the connector. RV clearance lights work OK. Connector wiring harness joins wiring harness from RV rear lights and goes somewhere towards the front. "That's one thing that would be nice to know." I have factory wiring diagrams which aren't too helpful with problem.

A junction box must be somewhere to where this wiring harness is attached. The wires going to the round toad connector are very large, probably 12 gauge whereas the RV light wiring appears to be 16 gauge. Apparently at this junction box choices can be made as to what is supplied to the toad connector because only RT, LT and clearance is the only thing available at the connector but has the wires available for use on all of the pins.

Fuses and breakers located above the genset are OK, although there isn't any fuse labeled for the clearance lights just for brake etc. Maybe there is another fuse panel available for the Toad connector but didn't see anything on the diagrams nor did I find any searching all the nooks & crannies. Maybe one of you knows of another panel.

We don't travel at night so it isn't a serious problem but still would like to fix it.

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Old 04-03-2009, 01:38 PM   #2
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There are some fuse blocks in your electrical compartment bay, behind a piece of sheetmetal. Many folks have found blown fuses in this compartment to solve power problems to the electrical tow plug.
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Old 04-03-2009, 06:42 PM   #3
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Toad Light Voltage Missing

I removed a "an unlabeled panel" from the AC Power Compartment and found a three fuse/relay modules and an unknown electric module, one of the fuse modules had a couple of blown 20 amp fuses each labeled "ign" whatever that is.

"I have all of the schematics from Winnebago but none of these are referenced physically or electrically." Oh well, I'm glad I spent my working years working in electrical/electronics it sure does help with this. It would be nice to have good documentation though.

I'll go buy some fuses tomorrow and see what is blowing the fuses. Thanks for the help & hopefully maybe I can let you know the end of the story soon.
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Old 04-12-2009, 07:27 PM   #4
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Toad Light Voltage Missing

I bought some fuses and replaced them. There was only one of the three fuses blown which went to the clearance lights; it was labeled "Marker". The Marker Lights on the motorhome work fine. The other two, which were 20 amp as well, were labeled "Ign" which I don't have a clue as to what they go to. If the motorhome was a gas model I would say it might have to with the ignition. Strange, I haven't seen any other things failing to operate because of the blown Ign fuses.

I left the shields off, which not only gives easy access to all of the fuse blocks and modules, it gives me more space to store cables etc.

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
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Old 04-22-2009, 07:51 PM   #5
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Dennis, We had a similar problem on our 2004 36G Journey. Discovered it during our routine departure light check when we had no toad brake lights. I eventually found the toad controller box in the same location as yours (with Winnebago's help) and also had a blown fuse. All this troubleshooting delayed our departure so when we fixed it I was elated.

When we checked the lights on the return trip same fuse blew and I was disappointed but understood something was wrong. Mostly fuses blow for a reason; sometimes connection oxidation raises resistance which raises current. But in my case I tracked the problem to the umbilical cord. I took the toad end plug apart and found the connections loose which allowed the wire to go to ground; thus blowing the fuse. I tightened all connections and put a little lok-tight on the little tiny screws that held the connections in place. Problem solved and no more blown fuses. SteveG
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Old 06-08-2009, 11:04 AM   #6
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Thumbs up

Thanks, I had thought of the Blue Ox cable possibly having a problem but thought, naw surely not a bad factory cable. Well I checked it anyway having inspected everything else. One end was in great shape but the other was bad. All but one of the screws affixing the wire to the pins were loose and the remaining one was rolling around inside. Guess the screw rolling around in the connector would intermittently short the pins.

Thanks
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