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03-28-2014, 11:44 PM
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#21
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Surrey, BC, Canada
Posts: 89
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Rmblaster....That aluminum edge you mentioned that is coming off. Mine is not coming off, but when you look at it, it does not seem to be seated all that well at the top and the bottom. Its solid though, at least on mine. Also if you get a wind noise on the windows I found to get rid of it, just turn you fan on low. Seems to pressurize the cabin enough to stop the vacuum effect on the windows.
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OldTrooper
2013 Winnebago 26HE & 65 Vette (toad)
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03-28-2014, 11:47 PM
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#22
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Surrey, BC, Canada
Posts: 89
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Macnut....replaced the lights with LED's. Amazing upgrade, so cool to the touch. I used the daylight bulbs in the ceiling lights and the "warm" lights for anything below eye level. Sorta gives that comfy feeling at night time. lol
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OldTrooper
2013 Winnebago 26HE & 65 Vette (toad)
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03-29-2014, 12:20 AM
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#23
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Anaheim ,Ca
Posts: 65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldtrooper
Rmblaster....That aluminum edge you mentioned that is coming off. Mine is not coming off, but when you look at it, it does not seem to be seated all that well at the top and the bottom. Its solid though, at least on mine. Also if you get a wind noise on the windows I found to get rid of it, just turn you fan on low. Seems to pressurize the cabin enough to stop the vacuum effect on the windows.
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Oldtrooper thanks for the reply ill post some pics tomorrow showing how mine look
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03-29-2014, 10:00 AM
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#24
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Anaheim ,Ca
Posts: 65
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03-29-2014, 02:56 PM
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#25
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: CA
Posts: 1,517
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Oldttrooper, great to hear about your LED upgrade! Love ours and love how easy they are on the batteries when we dry camp.
__________________
2023 Newmar Bay Star 3014, towing 2014 Honda CRV
2017 Winnebago Adventurer 35P
2013 Itasca Sunstar 26HE
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03-30-2014, 12:07 AM
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#26
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Surrey, BC, Canada
Posts: 89
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Rottenkid, Im having issues loading the photos, Keeps asking for url, dammed if I know how to do that. Anyway Im working on it.
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OldTrooper
2013 Winnebago 26HE & 65 Vette (toad)
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03-30-2014, 08:18 PM
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#27
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Surrey, BC, Canada
Posts: 89
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Vista 26HE custom consul
Rottenkid...somehow I managed to delete your message. Anyway I have posted some photos of the consul I made for the Vista. It measures 19" wide and 15" deep. Odd measurements, but the max I figured I could get away with without seriously hinder access to the Captain and Co-pilot seats. The stooge space measures the same as the consul.
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OldTrooper
2013 Winnebago 26HE & 65 Vette (toad)
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03-30-2014, 09:37 PM
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#28
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Surrey, BC, Canada
Posts: 89
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RmBlaster
Ya those seem to be about the same gaps than I have on my windows. Mine are about 3/8 shorter than the window pane, top and bottom. On mine the metal edge that is attached to the glass, seems to be bowed in the middle, making more contact with the glass in the middle than at the top or bottom. I tried pushing it to see if it would reset but no such luck. Even with the gap I have not had any leaks at all. Ive attached a couple of photos of my windows (pass side)
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OldTrooper
2013 Winnebago 26HE & 65 Vette (toad)
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03-30-2014, 10:01 PM
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#29
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Winnie-Wise
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Surprise, AZ
Posts: 399
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldtrooper
Rottenkid...somehow I managed to delete your message. Anyway I have posted some photos of the consul I made for the Vista. It measures 19" wide and 15" deep. Odd measurements, but the max I figured I could get away with without seriously hinder access to the Captain and Co-pilot seats. The stooge space measures the same as the consul.
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WOW! I really like that...
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03-31-2014, 08:37 AM
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#30
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Anaheim ,Ca
Posts: 65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldtrooper
RmBlaster
Ya those seem to be about the same gaps than I have on my windows. Mine are about 3/8 shorter than the window pane, top and bottom. On mine the metal edge that is attached to the glass, seems to be bowed in the middle, making more contact with the glass in the middle than at the top or bottom. I tried pushing it to see if it would reset but no such luck. Even with the gap I have not had any leaks at all. Ive attached a couple of photos of my windows (pass side)
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Yea looks like the same guy built our windows I taked to the window tech at Kinro (lippert ) and he told me how to fix them but since Im still under warranty for a couple more weeks Im going to take it in and have the dealer fix them dont want to take the chance of breaking the glass
And I like the console you built is it atached to the floor or does it just sit there
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06-01-2014, 02:49 PM
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#31
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Anaheim ,Ca
Posts: 65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rmblaster
Love my 2013 26 he except for the windows I seem to have an issue with the piece of aluminum that is on sliding part of the windows that is coming off on the top and bottom of the window glass anybody else have this issue . I also upgraded the single stage schumacher convertor to a powermax boondocker 4 stage
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Update 2 months later all the windows have been replaced under warranty
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06-06-2014, 08:46 AM
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#32
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 13
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better ck bottom of windsheld fram for rust. mine was clean off rust sprayed with bed liner.
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06-06-2014, 07:28 PM
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#33
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 122
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Now have 3,400 miles on our 26 HE Vista. I have the tires at 80 psi as recommended by the manufacturer. I just notice a slight movement when buses go past, but nothing too serious. We were to Westcott beach outside of Watertown New York. I tried to use auto leveling one night. I was close to level when I parked. The auto level was OK, but the left rear jack was two inches off the ground. I decided to maually set the jacks and no problem.
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06-08-2014, 08:02 PM
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#34
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Surrey, BC, Canada
Posts: 89
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Rmblaster, when they replaced the windows did they just replace the window pane or did the remove and replace the window frame as well
__________________
OldTrooper
2013 Winnebago 26HE & 65 Vette (toad)
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06-08-2014, 08:06 PM
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#35
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Surrey, BC, Canada
Posts: 89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macnut
Oldttrooper, great to hear about your LED upgrade! Love ours and love how easy they are on the batteries when we dry camp.
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Mcnut, just an update on the led's. Went dry camping last weekend....3 says didn't fire up the generator and we were quite liberal in our light usage, a couple of times it seemed we had them all on, lol. Anyway we had our way with the 12volt power and after three days our battery bank barely dropped 25%. The led's are a great investment.
__________________
OldTrooper
2013 Winnebago 26HE & 65 Vette (toad)
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06-08-2014, 08:08 PM
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#36
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: CA
Posts: 1,517
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Great to hear they worked so well for you! :-)
2013 Itasca Sunstar 26HE, 2014 Honda CRV with Roadmaster tow package, RVing on weekends and vacation since June 2012
__________________
2023 Newmar Bay Star 3014, towing 2014 Honda CRV
2017 Winnebago Adventurer 35P
2013 Itasca Sunstar 26HE
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06-08-2014, 09:35 PM
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#37
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Anaheim ,Ca
Posts: 65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldtrooper
Rmblaster, when they replaced the windows did they just replace the window pane or did the remove and replace the window frame as well
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Old trooper they replaced the whole window including the frame Im not sure but they actually sound quieter
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06-11-2014, 10:08 AM
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#38
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 13
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chair relocate
bbq trying to figure out yoy did it, would like to to ours do you have pictures.
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06-12-2014, 08:46 AM
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#39
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 48
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bblack,
I'll post as soon as the wife takes the pictures and loads them. I'll also include a short explanation.
Bill
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06-12-2014, 09:21 AM
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#40
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 48
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bblack,
The photo should be attached, but not sure, our first attempt.
The back row of bolts (shown) are between the pole of the chair mount and the wall. The front row is the same. The two forward bolts on this row are the original which held the chair mount to the floor. I simply made and finished a 1' board as shown. The original bolt pattern was drilled and the two new rear bolts (one on each row) are the same distance as the original pattern. I used two carriage bolts on the closest hole on each row, hollowing the underside for the heads to be sunk into the board. The board lays flat on the floor and the new bolt heads do not put any pressure on the floor.
With the new mounting, the front bolts of each row hold the board to the floor, using the original holes in the floor. The second bolt in each row holds the board and the front of the chair mount to the floor, using the existing holes in the floor. The new bolts hold the chair mount to the board.
This moves the chair back almost 4 inches, the arm is now at the edge of the stair well. It has held for over a year now with no problems. Watching TV is still a pain in the neck but in the future I'm hoping to find a TV mount which can be adapted without too much effort, to lower the TV for watching.
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