Water heater access

[daveinaz58]

We took our "new to us" 2004 Adventurer 33V out for its maiden voyage. I noticed that there is cold water dripped from under the water heater. I also remember seeing a repair invoice where the PO had taken it to the shop for a leaking water heater and the tech said that it was simply a loose fitting at the water heater. So, since it is cold water dripping under it, and since that fitting was previously loose, I'm assuming that the cold water fitting going into the back of the water heater is leaking again.

I've attached a copy of the plumbing diagram.

Do I need to pull the water heater out the front to access the fittings or is there another way to access them?

If I have to slide it out to access the leaking fitting on the back of it, and am I also correct in assuming that I have to disconnect the hot and cold water pipes going into the hot water heater compartment first so it's free to slide forward and out?

Thanks

[Skip426]

There is probably not enough free play in the plumbing to move the heater without disconnecting the fittings .

As for access with the tank in place you might have to get creative with some panel removal for access.

Most of the connectors involved will be the style in the picture below , and if they have been tightened once and still leak then removal of the connector and replacing the " cone washer " is in order.
I picked up a 10 pack , used two, and haven't needed another in five years .
Lent some to neighbors though.
Murphy's law .

[daveinaz58]

Here’s a picture of the leak. Looks like the plastic nut was put on the brass fitting without Teflon tape?

(Sorry, the photo rotated itself)

[Old-Biscuit]

Those fitting only need to be hand tightened......no teflon tape needed

As suggested...once over tightened need new cone washer
Remove old washer....go to ACE, Home Depot, Lowes and get another one

Then with new cone washer in place hand tighten and check for leak

[Concord]

As a side note, sometimes my waterheater drain plug would leak.

Buildup of lime and Teflon tape.

I drained the water heater, "painted" the wh threads with lime-away and let it sit overnight. Then bought a metal plug and cut slots in it. Screwed it in and out a couple of times, then turned the water back on for a moment to flush things out.

It looks like New now. Bought a new nylon plug to match the nice clean threads.

[Skip426]

Originally Posted by daveinaz58

Here’s a picture of the leak. Looks like the plastic nut was put on the brass fitting without Teflon tape?

(Sorry, the photo rotated itself)

Pictures posted to the forums in too large a format ( too many pixels ) the site computer will do weird things to make them fit the posting limits .
Resize the photo before posting 640 pixels works best for me.

[DancinCampers]

On my '03 33V I was able to unscrew the water pump mounts and clamps holding the tubing from the vertical wall and move it to the left. Then remove the wall, you will need to cut the wires to the light. This should give you enough room to loosen the water connection and replace the cone washer. You could just try and tighten it, but I would recommend replacing it.

[daveinaz58]

Originally Posted by DancinCampers

On my '03 33V I was able to unscrew the water pump mounts and clamps holding the tubing from the vertical wall and move it to the left. Then remove the wall, you will need to cut the wires to the light. This should give you enough room to loosen the water connection and replace the cone washer. You could just try and tighten it, but I would recommend replacing it.

yes, I’m convinced about replacing the cone washer have got some new ones to replace it. I think I’ll try your method first. To remove that wall (after removing the water pump and tubing) are there those bolts/screws at the front of the compartment the only ones holding it in place? I couldn’t see anything attaching the wall at the rear of the compartment.

Thanks.

[DancinCampers]

There should be a small bracket at the rear bottom of the wall. Also, there should be some screws thru the front of the water heater frame.

[daveinaz58]

Originally Posted by DancinCampers

There should be a small bracket at the rear bottom of the wall. Also, there should be some screws thru the front of the water heater frame.

Thanks. I removed that wall and replaced the cone gasket on that fitting today. I'm surprised it wasn't leaking more than it was seeing as how little of that original cone gasket was left!

[Ray,IN]

Originally Posted by Concord

As a side note, sometimes my waterheater drain plug would leak.

Buildup of lime and Teflon tape.

I drained the water heater, "painted" the wh threads with lime-away and let it sit overnight. Then bought a metal plug and cut slots in it. Screwed it in and out a couple of times, then turned the water back on for a moment to flush things out.

It looks like New now. Bought a new nylon plug to match the nice clean threads.Attachment 394643

Good job! store-bought thread-chasers are expensive and do the same thing.

[DancinCampers]

Originally Posted by daveinaz58

Thanks. I removed that wall and replaced the cone gasket on that fitting today. I'm surprised it wasn't leaking more than it was seeing as how little of that original cone gasket was left!

Great. If that was the cold water inlet I would also change out the hot water outlet, as my experience has been they deteriorate worse.

[daveinaz58]

Originally Posted by DancinCampers

Great. If that was the cold water inlet I would also change out the hot water outlet, as my experience has been they deteriorate worse.

Well, after getting into the job, I stand corrected -- it was the hot water outlet not the cold water inlet -- the one at the top.

[DancinCampers]

Good job. We enjoyed ours for 8 years and 70K+ miles. Take care.