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Old 06-06-2023, 10:44 AM   #1
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Water heater access

We took our "new to us" 2004 Adventurer 33V out for its maiden voyage. I noticed that there is cold water dripped from under the water heater. I also remember seeing a repair invoice where the PO had taken it to the shop for a leaking water heater and the tech said that it was simply a loose fitting at the water heater. So, since it is cold water dripping under it, and since that fitting was previously loose, I'm assuming that the cold water fitting going into the back of the water heater is leaking again.

I've attached a copy of the plumbing diagram.

Do I need to pull the water heater out the front to access the fittings or is there another way to access them?

If I have to slide it out to access the leaking fitting on the back of it, and am I also correct in assuming that I have to disconnect the hot and cold water pipes going into the hot water heater compartment first so it's free to slide forward and out?

Thanks
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Old 06-06-2023, 10:54 AM   #2
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There is probably not enough free play in the plumbing to move the heater without disconnecting the fittings .

As for access with the tank in place you might have to get creative with some panel removal for access.

Most of the connectors involved will be the style in the picture below , and if they have been tightened once and still leak then removal of the connector and replacing the " cone washer " is in order.
I picked up a 10 pack , used two, and haven't needed another in five years .
Lent some to neighbors though.
Murphy's law .
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Old 06-06-2023, 11:18 AM   #3
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Hereís a picture of the leak. Looks like the plastic nut was put on the brass fitting without Teflon tape?

(Sorry, the photo rotated itself)
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Old 06-06-2023, 11:28 AM   #4
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Those fitting only need to be hand tightened......no teflon tape needed

As suggested...once over tightened need new cone washer
Remove old washer....go to ACE, Home Depot, Lowes and get another one

Then with new cone washer in place hand tighten and check for leak
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Old 06-06-2023, 12:54 PM   #5
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As a side note, sometimes my waterheater drain plug would leak.

Buildup of lime and Teflon tape.

I drained the water heater, "painted" the wh threads with lime-away and let it sit overnight. Then bought a metal plug and cut slots in it. Screwed it in and out a couple of times, then turned the water back on for a moment to flush things out.

It looks like New now. Bought a new nylon plug to match the nice clean threads.Click image for larger version

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Old 06-06-2023, 09:56 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daveinaz58 View Post
Hereís a picture of the leak. Looks like the plastic nut was put on the brass fitting without Teflon tape?

(Sorry, the photo rotated itself)
Pictures posted to the forums in too large a format ( too many pixels ) the site computer will do weird things to make them fit the posting limits .
Resize the photo before posting 640 pixels works best for me.
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Old 06-07-2023, 04:19 PM   #7
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On my '03 33V I was able to unscrew the water pump mounts and clamps holding the tubing from the vertical wall and move it to the left. Then remove the wall, you will need to cut the wires to the light. This should give you enough room to loosen the water connection and replace the cone washer. You could just try and tighten it, but I would recommend replacing it.
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Old 06-07-2023, 07:56 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DancinCampers View Post
On my '03 33V I was able to unscrew the water pump mounts and clamps holding the tubing from the vertical wall and move it to the left. Then remove the wall, you will need to cut the wires to the light. This should give you enough room to loosen the water connection and replace the cone washer. You could just try and tighten it, but I would recommend replacing it.
yes, Iím convinced about replacing the cone washer have got some new ones to replace it. I think Iíll try your method first. To remove that wall (after removing the water pump and tubing) are there those bolts/screws at the front of the compartment the only ones holding it in place? I couldnít see anything attaching the wall at the rear of the compartment.

Thanks.
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Old 06-07-2023, 09:32 PM   #9
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There should be a small bracket at the rear bottom of the wall. Also, there should be some screws thru the front of the water heater frame.
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Old 06-08-2023, 07:51 PM   #10
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There should be a small bracket at the rear bottom of the wall. Also, there should be some screws thru the front of the water heater frame.
Thanks. I removed that wall and replaced the cone gasket on that fitting today. I'm surprised it wasn't leaking more than it was seeing as how little of that original cone gasket was left!
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Old 06-08-2023, 08:15 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Concord View Post
As a side note, sometimes my waterheater drain plug would leak.

Buildup of lime and Teflon tape.

I drained the water heater, "painted" the wh threads with lime-away and let it sit overnight. Then bought a metal plug and cut slots in it. Screwed it in and out a couple of times, then turned the water back on for a moment to flush things out.

It looks like New now. Bought a new nylon plug to match the nice clean threads.Attachment 394643
Good job! store-bought thread-chasers are expensive and do the same thing.
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Old 06-08-2023, 08:27 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by daveinaz58 View Post
Thanks. I removed that wall and replaced the cone gasket on that fitting today. I'm surprised it wasn't leaking more than it was seeing as how little of that original cone gasket was left!

Great. If that was the cold water inlet I would also change out the hot water outlet, as my experience has been they deteriorate worse.
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Old 06-09-2023, 08:47 PM   #13
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Great. If that was the cold water inlet I would also change out the hot water outlet, as my experience has been they deteriorate worse.
Well, after getting into the job, I stand corrected -- it was the hot water outlet not the cold water inlet -- the one at the top.
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Old 06-09-2023, 08:55 PM   #14
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Good job. We enjoyed ours for 8 years and 70K+ miles. Take care.
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