I have a 2014 itasca Suncruiser 38q. Can't winterize it with antifreeze because it fills the water heater. I suspect the check valve but cant find it. I have a bypass in back bin but it doesn't stop it. Any help appreciated
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Assuming you are the same as both of my Winnie’s, there are 2 check valves on the water heater, one on the “in” and one on the “out” and are screwed directly into the tank itself, the pex pipe then connects to the valve.
Search for this to replace “Valterra P23415LF 1/2" Lead-Free Check Valve”. (I bought from Amazon but you may find cheaper elsewhere)
If you are replacing one, I highly recommend just doing both as they have a tendency to go in pairs and but the time you’ve done the work to actually get to them, you are 99% done.
I used a LONG ratchet to swap out, they get pretty snug with age and took some ooomph to loosen up.
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2015 Winnebago Vista 35B. "The Vistabus!!"
Assuming you are the same as both of my Winnie’s, there are 2 check valves on the water heater, one on the “in” and one on the “out” and are screwed directly into the tank itself, the pex pipe then connects to the valve.
Search for this to replace “Valterra P23415LF 1/2" Lead-Free Check Valve”. (I bought from Amazon but you may find cheaper elsewhere)
If you are replacing one, I highly recommend just doing both as they have a tendency to go in pairs and but the time you’ve done the work to actually get to them, you are 99% done.
I used a LONG ratchet to swap out, they get pretty snug with age and took some ooomph to loosen up.
YES Winnebago likes to use 2
Hot out is more common
Hot out is more likely to cause problems due to scale/calcium from heating the water vs cold inlet
Check valves would not be necessary if RV MFGs installed shutoff valves which rarely fail
Neither Atwood/Dometic or Suburban ship WHs with check valves. RV MFGs install them cause they are CHEAP
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Dodge 3500 w/Tractor Motor
US NAVY---USS Decatur DDG-31
It sounds like I have to pull the water heater. There is a panel in the bin beside the WH but I can't take it off. I suspect rivets are holding this. Any thoughts? Thanks
Since my water heater happens to be out at the moment for a different reason, I can tell you that the Atwood/Dometic 10 gal in my 01 Chieftain has a single check valve on the lower fitting, which I believe is the "in". There's also a HWH bypass setup on mine, which I would think you could use to winterize the rest of the system and then drain the heater from the other end.
Since my water heater happens to be out at the moment for a different reason, I can tell you that the Atwood/Dometic 10 gal in my 01 Chieftain has a single check valve on the lower fitting, which I believe is the "in". There's also a HWH bypass setup on mine, which I would think you could use to winterize the rest of the system and then drain the heater from the other end.
Bottom fitting is COLD Inlet
Bypass set up ----if ON the HOT line it could block off the hot so no backfeeding into WH Tank
If on a line between cold & hot lines then check valve in hot out (or shutoff valve) would be needed to stop backflow
Otherwise 10 gallons of antifreeze wasted just to fill WH Tank
__________________ I took my Medication today. HAVE YOU?
Dodge 3500 w/Tractor Motor
US NAVY---USS Decatur DDG-31
@Old-Biscuit I shall have to consult my documentation and observe my setup while I have it all in the open. Fortunately, I expect NEVER to have to worry about winterization!
Assuming you are the same as both of my Winnie’s, there are 2 check valves on the water heater, one on the “in” and one on the “out” and are screwed directly into the tank itself, the pex pipe then connects to the valve.
Search for this to replace “Valterra P23415LF 1/2" Lead-Free Check Valve”. (I bought from Amazon but you may find cheaper elsewhere)
If you are replacing one, I highly recommend just doing both as they have a tendency to go in pairs and but the time you’ve done the work to actually get to them, you are 99% done.
I used a LONG ratchet to swap out, they get pretty snug with age and took some ooomph to loosen up.
Mine failed as a pair. And a long handled ratchet is a must.
I have winterized my 15 Winnebago Vista at least once every year. Sometimes I'll take it out in the winter to someplace warm and then winterize it again when I get back to the snow country. Anyway... the way I understand it, the check valves keep water flowing only one direction... cold into the heater and hot out of the heater. If the water flow is ok at the faucet, then the check valves should be ok. I would look at the bypass valve. The Bypass attaches the inlet (cold to the heater) to the outlet (hot out of the heater). When you are adding the antifreeze with the bypass in bypass mode the antifreeze will run through the hot water pipes and hot water faucet valves. It's important to run antifreeze through the hot water faucets. If, in the bypass mode, the heater tank is filling then the bypass is not right.
Also, those check valve fail often. If yours broke, but still lets water into the cold port (bottom) and the hot water check valve failed, but still lets hot water out of the hot port (upper)... you don't really need to replace these.
As for winterizing, you can also install a Sharkbite check-valve if you can get your your Pex tubing. Or you can install a ball valve, which may be far easier than removing your hot water heater if access in your RV is so limited you have to pull it out just to get the backside.
Be gentle with the plastic; and you should replace that soft rubber donut/seal. Your's is surely hard and brittle. Just don't over torque.
Note: Sometimes, not always, these Camco check valves help to prevent hot water surges. However, if your hot water is not surging when you shower now, you probably can just drill out the guts of these check valves and up it back... no looking like a pipe nipple.
Again, adding the Sharkbite 1/2" check valve is much easier than pulling your water heater.
Ditto to 2004Horizon. My hot water outlet check valve also failed to keep the antifreeze from getting into the water heater a few years back. I was lucky. My plumbing lines were pex tubing. Got a 1/2" SharkBite slip-on ball valve and inserted it between the already existing winterize ball valve and the hot water outlet. Now when I winterize I throw two valves instead of just the one.
Since my water heater happens to be out at the moment for a different reason, I can tell you that the Atwood/Dometic 10 gal in my 01 Chieftain has a single check valve on the lower fitting, which I believe is the "in". There's also a HWH bypass setup on mine, which I would think you could use to winterize the rest of the system and then drain the heater from the other end.
An update from my own installation, there is indeed a check valve in BOTH the top and bottom (outlet and inlet) fittings.
Linear Mode
