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Old 12-06-2021, 01:07 PM   #1
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Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: SE & Northern Michigan
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What size socket for lugnut removal

What size socket fits the M22 x 1.5 lugnuts on a 2012 Adventurer 35P? These are on the standard 22.5" aluminum wheels.

I hope to never have to remove one of these tires but I want to have a 1/2" drive and a 3/4" drive socket on hand just in case.
2012 Winnebago Adventurer 35P
2009 Fleetwood Jamboree 31M Class C
Toad: 2013 Ford Edge SEL FWD
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Old 12-06-2021, 01:34 PM   #2
Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Jun 2021
Posts: 83
If you ever do change it yourself, you'll wish you had one of these...
Most of those kits come with a socket which will fit.
1978 Itasca 25RV (sold long ago)
1999 Newmar Dutch Star DSCA36, Diesel Puller, "Dutchess" (for sale)
2001 National RV Marlin 390, Diesel Pusher, "Marlo"
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Old 12-06-2021, 04:13 PM   #3
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Thank you for the link.
I hope to never have to change one myself. I am only planning for the worst case situation to prevent sitting off the side of the road for hours waiting for cell phone service or for RV assistance to arrive.
2012 Winnebago Adventurer 35P
2009 Fleetwood Jamboree 31M Class C
Toad: 2013 Ford Edge SEL FWD
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Old 12-06-2021, 05:55 PM   #4
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I've been working on this for 3 years.

My wheels are 22.5". The lugnuts are 33mm. The specs for torque on my wheels is 450 ft/pounds.

I've always been strong, so I first tried to remove a lugnut using a socket and 1/2" breaker bar. I couldn't move it. I slipped a piece of pipe over the bar for more leverage and broke the breaker bar.

I studied torque multipliers on line for a spell and then saw a post about a torque multiplier being sold as surplus equipment on ebay. I bought one of them. The multiplier is 1/2" drive in, 3/4" drive out, so I bought some 3/4" drive extensions and a 3/4" drive socket. I also had to come up with some steel pipe to brace up the multiplier to remove the lug nuts. I loosend a couple of lug nuts to prove I could, but I've not used this setup to remove a wheel. I wrote a post about this experience. Others contributed and the posts covers some options.:

Coincidently, I've been thinking and working on wheel removal again. I want to polish the wheels, inspect the brakes, lube the slide pins, and bleed the brakes. I decided that I would be as well off with a big rachet and a long pipe as opposed to using the multiplier. I found a 3/4" Craftsman rachet on ebay for $60 and bought it. I went to the local welder and got a 4' piece of pipe to slip over the rachet for leverage. I picked the 4' length intentionally. Foot/pounds is just what it says. 100 pounds of force 1' from the lug nut is 100 ft/pounds. 100 foot/pounds 4' from the lug nut would be 400 pounds. Using the rachet to position the pipe at mid thigh makes it easy to generate the force needed to work the wheel (I thought).

I worked on the coach today. The first thing I found is that the lugnuts required much more than 450 ft/pounds to remove. I ended up usinb my lever and another pipe for more leverage. Here is what it looked like:

BTW, the lug nuts are not immediatly loose at first movement. It takes nearly a full turn before the force required becomes easy enough for normal car/truck tools. Anyway, I loosened all 10 lugnuts. I hit an unexpected road block when I went to position my 20 ton bottle jack under the axle to lift a wheel. My jack was too tall. Durn it. I can work by this problem, but all the solutions I can think of end up with the wheel well off the ground when it is time to remove it. That is not what I want. The best solution would be a low profile jack.

Those jacks are expensive, and I don't think I want to take all of this stuff on the road anyway. Additional thought is that access under the coach can be really difficult with the tire flat, especially if you end up stopped in awkward spot. tonight, I'm back to thinking aobut it. I did get a good day's exercise out of the project.
2001 Alpine Coach 38/8
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Old 12-06-2021, 09:04 PM   #5
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Thanks for your advice and sharing your history on your project.
I have only had this Class A for a few months and my previous experience was with 19" wheels and only 150 ft lb of torque on a 32' Class C.
Looks like my 3 foot long 3/4" breaker bar and me are not going to be able to do the trick against 450 ft lb torqued lugnuts.
2012 Winnebago Adventurer 35P
2009 Fleetwood Jamboree 31M Class C
Toad: 2013 Ford Edge SEL FWD
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Old 12-10-2021, 12:07 AM   #6
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Well, as usual, many folks on here make things harder than they should. I have one of the "Torque multipliers" that's shown in the photos above. Mine was right about $165 or so when I purchased it, about 7 years ago or so. It's supposed to 75:1 ratio. It's pretty darn close to that. I can sit on my bu.. and with one arm, break all 10, 450 ft. lb., 33MM lug nuts loose on our '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the CAT C-7 330HP in about 8-9 minutes, if I'm not in any form of a hurry.

Those torque multipliers are superior to any other form of tool, with the same name. They are slow, because they are so low geared. That's no big deal 'cause, most of us are not trying to be an Indy Pit crew, correct? Now, yes, it's quite easy to break those lug nuts loose with that tool. But, to re-torque them, you need a CORRECT TOOL. Don't screw around with trying to calculate a length of pipe and hold your tongue in the right position, the sun and the moon have to be lined up just right. GET THE RIGHT TOOL!

For that, I went on ebay and purchase a high quality, used, 3/4" drive, 0-600 ft. lb. click type torque wrench made by KD. It works flawless. It's very close to about 48" long. I don't have any issues at all, torquing those lug nuts to the prescribed 450 ft. lbs. with that wrench. I don't do it daily, not even close. But, when I do any wheel work or, brake inspection or anything where a wheel needs to be removed and re-installed, it's absolutely GREAT to have the correct tools. The torque wrench from ebay was a whopping $75 when I bought it. Normally that brand and size torque wrench hovers around $350 or more.
2004 ITASCA HORIZON 36GD, 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 Toad '18 Honda Africa Twin Adventure Sports DCT
Retired-29.5 yrs, SDFD, Ham - KI6OND
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Old 12-10-2021, 06:40 PM   #7
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i have one like injuneer posted from is one, if not thee best tool i have ever bought.i believe it was 90 bucks or so,you have to look at the description as to what sockets come with 99 vectra gt lugs take a 30mm socket,and not all of em come with a 30mm.i actually sold my first one.i sold my 97 freightliner fl60.the guy got about 25 miles away and said the rear caliper was binding up and smoking,so i grabbed my t/a and jack and some tools and went and pulled the duals off pulled the caliper and got it freed up and duals back on and he was back on the road in under 45 mins.he was in awe that i could remove those nuts literally with one hand.said he had never seen such a tool and what i wanted for it.i sold it to him for 100 bucks and he was happier then a pig in mud.
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Old 12-10-2021, 07:24 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Injuneer View Post
If you ever do change it yourself, you'll wish you had one of these...
Most of those kits come with a socket which will fit.

I purchased one like Injuneer's off eBay 4 years ago for about $45 and it is the 64:1 gear ratio. Works great I have removed several wheels with no effort at all! Brake them loose then remove with battery impact wrench!
Our local tow truck operator is now carrying them on his trucks!
2003 National Tradewinds LTC 7374 FL XC-Chassis IFS, Steer Safe, 8.3 ISC 350 Cummins, 3000MH Allison, 2015 Equinox, Blue Ox Tow-Bar, Brake Master Air Over Hyd
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