What size socket for lugnut removal

[Offramp]

What size socket fits the M22 x 1.5 lugnuts on a 2012 Adventurer 35P? These are on the standard 22.5" aluminum wheels.

I hope to never have to remove one of these tires but I want to have a 1/2" drive and a 3/4" drive socket on hand just in case.

[Injuneer]

If you ever do change it yourself, you'll wish you had one of these...
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=torque+multiplier+lug+nut
Most of those kits come with a socket which will fit.

[Offramp]

Thank you for the link.
I hope to never have to change one myself. I am only planning for the worst case situation to prevent sitting off the side of the road for hours waiting for cell phone service or for RV assistance to arrive.

[andy29847]

I've been working on this for 3 years.

My wheels are 22.5". The lugnuts are 33mm. The specs for torque on my wheels is 450 ft/pounds.

I've always been strong, so I first tried to remove a lugnut using a socket and 1/2" breaker bar. I couldn't move it. I slipped a piece of pipe over the bar for more leverage and broke the breaker bar.

I studied torque multipliers on line for a spell and then saw a post about a torque multiplier being sold as surplus equipment on ebay. I bought one of them. The multiplier is 1/2" drive in, 3/4" drive out, so I bought some 3/4" drive extensions and a 3/4" drive socket. I also had to come up with some steel pipe to brace up the multiplier to remove the lug nuts. I loosend a couple of lug nuts to prove I could, but I've not used this setup to remove a wheel. I wrote a post about this experience. Others contributed and the posts covers some options.:

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f104/lug...rk-442688.html



Coincidently, I've been thinking and working on wheel removal again. I want to polish the wheels, inspect the brakes, lube the slide pins, and bleed the brakes. I decided that I would be as well off with a big rachet and a long pipe as opposed to using the multiplier. I found a 3/4" Craftsman rachet on ebay for $60 and bought it. I went to the local welder and got a 4' piece of pipe to slip over the rachet for leverage. I picked the 4' length intentionally. Foot/pounds is just what it says. 100 pounds of force 1' from the lug nut is 100 ft/pounds. 100 foot/pounds 4' from the lug nut would be 400 pounds. Using the rachet to position the pipe at mid thigh makes it easy to generate the force needed to work the wheel (I thought).

I worked on the coach today. The first thing I found is that the lugnuts required much more than 450 ft/pounds to remove. I ended up usinb my lever and another pipe for more leverage. Here is what it looked like:



BTW, the lug nuts are not immediatly loose at first movement. It takes nearly a full turn before the force required becomes easy enough for normal car/truck tools. Anyway, I loosened all 10 lugnuts. I hit an unexpected road block when I went to position my 20 ton bottle jack under the axle to lift a wheel. My jack was too tall. Durn it. I can work by this problem, but all the solutions I can think of end up with the wheel well off the ground when it is time to remove it. That is not what I want. The best solution would be a low profile jack.

https://www.northerntool.com/images/..._2000x2000.jpg

Those jacks are expensive, and I don't think I want to take all of this stuff on the road anyway. Additional thought is that access under the coach can be really difficult with the tire flat, especially if you end up stopped in awkward spot. tonight, I'm back to thinking aobut it. I did get a good day's exercise out of the project.

[Offramp]

Thanks for your advice and sharing your history on your project.
I have only had this Class A for a few months and my previous experience was with 19" wheels and only 150 ft lb of torque on a 32' Class C.
Looks like my 3 foot long 3/4" breaker bar and me are not going to be able to do the trick against 450 ft lb torqued lugnuts.

[FIRE UP]

Offramp,
Well, as usual, many folks on here make things harder than they should. I have one of the "Torque multipliers" that's shown in the photos above. Mine was right about $165 or so when I purchased it, about 7 years ago or so. It's supposed to 75:1 ratio. It's pretty darn close to that. I can sit on my bu.. and with one arm, break all 10, 450 ft. lb., 33MM lug nuts loose on our '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the CAT C-7 330HP in about 8-9 minutes, if I'm not in any form of a hurry.

Those torque multipliers are superior to any other form of tool, with the same name. They are slow, because they are so low geared. That's no big deal 'cause, most of us are not trying to be an Indy Pit crew, correct? Now, yes, it's quite easy to break those lug nuts loose with that tool. But, to re-torque them, you need a CORRECT TOOL. Don't screw around with trying to calculate a length of pipe and hold your tongue in the right position, the sun and the moon have to be lined up just right. GET THE RIGHT TOOL!

For that, I went on ebay and purchase a high quality, used, 3/4" drive, 0-600 ft. lb. click type torque wrench made by KD. It works flawless. It's very close to about 48" long. I don't have any issues at all, torquing those lug nuts to the prescribed 450 ft. lbs. with that wrench. I don't do it daily, not even close. But, when I do any wheel work or, brake inspection or anything where a wheel needs to be removed and re-installed, it's absolutely GREAT to have the correct tools. The torque wrench from ebay was a whopping $75 when I bought it. Normally that brand and size torque wrench hovers around $350 or more.
Scott

[catmandoo62]

i have one like injuneer posted from amazon.it is one, if not thee best tool i have ever bought.i believe it was 90 bucks or so,you have to look at the description as to what sockets come with it.my 99 vectra gt lugs take a 30mm socket,and not all of em come with a 30mm.i actually sold my first one.i sold my 97 freightliner fl60.the guy got about 25 miles away and said the rear caliper was binding up and smoking,so i grabbed my t/a and jack and some tools and went and pulled the duals off pulled the caliper and got it freed up and duals back on and he was back on the road in under 45 mins.he was in awe that i could remove those nuts literally with one hand.said he had never seen such a tool and what i wanted for it.i sold it to him for 100 bucks and he was happier then a pig in mud.

[Damion]

Originally Posted by Injuneer

If you ever do change it yourself, you'll wish you had one of these...
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=torque+multiplier+lug+nut
Most of those kits come with a socket which will fit.

I purchased one like Injuneer's off eBay 4 years ago for about $45 and it is the 64:1 gear ratio. Works great I have removed several wheels with no effort at all! Brake them loose then remove with battery impact wrench!
Our local tow truck operator is now carrying them on his trucks!

[wethereyet]

Originally Posted by Injuneer

If you ever do change it yourself, you'll wish you had one of these...
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=torque+multiplier+lug+nut
Most of those kits come with a socket which will fit.

Could you please tell me which multiplier (brand/model) you linked to? I see several with one that looks similar to a large ratchet. TIA!

[Bigd9]

I bought this torque multiplier back when we first started camping with a diesel pusher motorhome. I bought it on eBay 22 years ago for $56. It has worked perfectly and so easy to use even my then 13 year old granddaughter helped me remove the lug nuts once.

However a few things you need to understand.

The existing lug nuts could be on there really OMG tight. I had to take my first coach to a truck tire center and have them remove the lug nuts using their large air impact wrench.

If you do remove the lug nuts, the rim may be stuck onto the brake drum. I've had to use a sledge hammer to pop them off.

The tire & rim is very heavy! Surprisingly so. If it starts to fall over, let it go or you could end up with a crushed foot!

Getting the tire & rim back onto the studs can be a real challenge. I use a tire caddy so I can lift the ...did I mention how heavy they are?... tire/rim up and rotate it so the holes align with the studs.

If you remove the drake drum to inspect the brakes and clean the S-Cam, as Scott mentioned, remember the drum is unexpectedly very heavy and awkward. Keep fingers and toes clear because gravity will cause that drum to head earthward right toward your feet, and fast!

Know what your rim manufacturer states is the proper torque and if the studs and or lug nuts should be lube or not. The torque settings are very much dependent on "to be lubed or not to be lubed" that is the question.

BTW, I don't know the socket size right off hand. It is out in the coach. You may also need an extension for the rear tires.

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Proto...%2C207&sr=8-17

[FIRE UP]

Big D,
Good post! Yes, that little tire/wheel dolly with the double rollers on it is THE ONLY WAY TO GO when it comes to messing with 22.5" tires. People always crack me up when it comes to RVs. They pay upwards of a hundred grand for one then, try to fix it or work on it with rubber bands and broom sticks. Get the CORRECT TOOLS! If you're gonna work on your own coach, and want to save money and still get the job done right, get the CORRECT TOOLS.

The torque multipliers that have been shown are heavy and awkward but, they do a great job of loosening those 450 lb. lug nuts. You loosen them with that tool then you can buzz them off with a 1/2" drive battery powered tool of your choice. There are supposedly super wazoo battery powered 1/2" drive *Fuel* or others that claim numbers as high as 1000 or more ft. lbs. of torque for breaking loose fasteners.

Well, I'd have to actually use one, on MY lug nuts on my coach, to prove to me, that one of those will actually work. But, that's not gonna happen 'cause, I've got all the correct tools I need to do the tire/wheel/brake work on my coach I need. A $75 K&D 3/4" drive, 100-600 ft.lb. torque wrench from Ebay works flawless in retorquing those 33mm lug nuts back to 450 ft.lbs. And I got one of those tire/wheel dollies in a Quartzsite RV show tool vendors tent about 10 years ago for $20. It works flawless. I can't find them for any less than around $100 now.
Scott