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Old 03-03-2016, 03:32 AM   #15
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For anyone planning to install a Magnum AGS module, I ran into a problem where the current drain starting the generator actually resets the module to startup. This module was installed behind the One Place panel because I had the generator control and access to the Hobbs I needed so it makes sense to do it there. The problem is that on the Journey/ Meridian, and probably all other DP Class A's is that Winnie brings house 12V all the way from the batteries, to the front of the coach, then distributes power back to the coach from there. They also get power to start the generator from there.... A LONG way from the batteries. That loss cannot be tolerated by the AGS, so the gen attempts to crank, AGS drops out of regulation, releases the generator start after maybe 1/4 sec, and the start cycle starts all over again. The only solution is to bring separate power from the batteries to the AGS direct. The B+ that runs the logic in the AGS is also the battery voltage sense so this makes it much more accurate eliminating the line losses in the coach.
Now you know....
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Old 03-10-2016, 01:43 PM   #16
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I think this is a good place to mention what great service I've gotten from Lichtsinn RV when I've need parts for my motorhome projects. Great prices and very fast (and fairly priced) shipping. They always beat my local dealer, and have even beaten the WinnebagoOutdoor (via Amazon) prices and shipping. I've never gotten the wrong parts and they are more than willing to look up what I need and check alternatives.

Couldn't be happier with them.
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Old 03-15-2016, 06:48 AM   #17
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I agree, the folks at Lichtsinn are top notch! I have had similar experiences with the parts and service departments.
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Old 03-23-2016, 07:30 PM   #18
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Winnebago/Itasca Mods , Fixes & Tips

Thanks to Marco1b...
I've paraphrased his reply to my asking him about ice/frost buildup in the freezer portion of the residential Whirlpool refrigerator/freezer.

The "duckbill" design of the drain tube is the problem as it gets gummed up easily. Mine was full of gunk. Whirlpool has a kit that provides a new drain tube and plastic piece used to get the water down to the drip tray. I stopped at an appliance store and modified my existing duckbill like the store owner suggested. He said that was how he fixed them and no parts were needed.



The fix only takes 10 minutes to do, after you get access to the rear panel.

I had 3 hours invested in total by the time I was cleaned up. I had trouble clearing the carpet. Make sure to tilt the frig back as much as you can while moving it out of its cabinet.



The steps are as follows:



1. Get the kit. Or modify like I did (see pic)

2. Remove the wood that runs along the top of the fridge.

3. The fridge has two screws on the top back that must be removed (2 on left, 2 on right). I used multiple socket extensions with a screw (I think Phillips) end to

back to the screws.

4. You will need to have someone push the fridge (approx. 1ft) thru the back access door while you pull from the front. The fridge has to go up and over the carpet so I used some thin plastic cutting boards to enable this.

5. Once the fridge is out, remove the sheet metal panel in back to switch out the old parts with the new parts.

6. I cut the rear panel sheet metal into two pieces to provide future access without having to push out the fridge.



I ordered the kit W10619951 Whirlpool Extension-Drain Factory Replacement for Grommet W10309238 on Amazon for $15.51 (I modified old duckbill). $0


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Old 03-27-2016, 09:10 AM   #19
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I agree! Great service.
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Old 04-02-2016, 09:06 AM   #20
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Hi Tim, that was a very informative video on the battery disconnect, thanks. But a word of caution that happened to me a long time ago. Please remove your wedding ring when working on electric problems in tight places. I almost lost a finger when my ring made contact with a wire connection. Thanks for your post, just a word on caution.
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Old 04-02-2016, 10:51 AM   #21
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It's not my video, but good advice.
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Old 04-15-2016, 04:30 PM   #22
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2015 Winnebago Vista Additions

#1: Third house battery
As part of a 300 Watt Solar Panel addition I decided to up from 2 to 3 12 volt flooded lead acid batteries. I replaced one of the OEM NAPA group 24 batteries with a group 28 marine battery, and re-used the OEM group 24 battery in a vented battery box that I placed in the forward driver's side basement compartment. Cost $ 100 for materials.
#2: 300 Watt solar system
Added 3 100 Watt solar panels to roof, wired in parallel. Connected to a 30 Amp charge controller installed in front cabinet above passenger seat, direct 8 GA wired to house batteries. Cost $ 450 for materials

#3: Winegard Trav'ler SK-1000 Dish Satellite System and Blu-ray DVD Player
Added a SK-1000 to roof of RV. Modified the LNBF to Western Arc Hybrid Pro for use with the Dish Hopper 3 DVR. Ran new coax to SK-1000 and used existing OEM coax tied together to provide a coax run from front cabinet to bedroom Sat TV jack for future use with a Dish Joey Client. To make work with the Hopper 3, added an A-B Coax Switch and Hybrid Solo Node between the SK-1000 and the Hopper. Added A-B HDMI switch so either the Blu-ray DVD Player (another add) or Hopper 3 DVR can be fed to the main TV. Have a small no-fan inverter to power the Hopper 3 so it can record programs even when big inverter is off when no shore power ( Hopper 3 only uses 35 watts ) . Built and installed a small AC transfer switch so that Hopper AC feed comes from the AC outlet when the AC outlet has power from big inverter or shore power, otherwise from the small inverter. I have Dish at my residence and move the Hopper 3 from my residence into my RV when traveling, the service I pay for at home works either place. I call Dish and update my service address when I travel far enough from home that my residence address local channels stop working. Cost $ 1300 for materials.

#4: Sound Bar with wireless sub-woofer, HDMI cable for PC.
Added a Sound Bar below the TV. Uses optical audio out port on the TV. Added HDMI cable to connect a PC to while I was at it. Had to ensure dimensions would clear the dinette slide. Wireless sub-woofer is located in front corner of RV. Cost $ 120 for materials.
#5: SiriusXM Dockable Sat Radio Receiver with bluetooth transmitter
Added a SiriusXM receiver that I can move to home and tow car when desired. Added a Bluetooth transmitter so I can listen to it on my portable Bluetooth speaker outside or in the bedroom. Cost $ 100 for materials.
#6: Roof mounted dual air horn.
As seen in prior photos, I added a Harbor Freight DC motor driven dual air horn painted to match the coach to the roof with separate lighted button on the dash to operate it. Cost $ 50 for materials.
#7: Additional LED lighting.
I had 12 volt LED light strips left over from a kitchen remodel so I mounted them behind molding stained to match my woodwork under the front cabinets and under the dinette cabinets. Second photo is from below showing how light strips and on-off strip mount right behind the molding. Cost $ 40 for materials.

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Old 05-03-2016, 11:19 AM   #23
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Entertainment setup

Hi all just bought our first motorhome Winnebago vista lx 27n want to add Apple TV but all connections are coax and I need hdmi anyone using a converter or have any suggestions?
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Old 05-03-2016, 02:08 PM   #24
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We removed the 3 screws that hold the upholstered box that covers the outlets/inlets on the back of the TV...found the HDMI connection on back of TV....plugged in HDMI cable....threaded it up through to the cabinet above driver's seat...replaced box that covered the back of the TV.


If you can access the back of your TV I would think you could do something similar.

Works great!
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Old 05-03-2016, 09:55 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by holt27n View Post
Hi all just bought our first motorhome Winnebago vista lx 27n want to add Apple TV but all connections are coax and I need hdmi anyone using a converter or have any suggestions?
In 2015, there is a HDMI cable run to the compartment above the driver's seat and a Component + Composite + Audio cable runnng to the outside TV (if you have that option) from that same compartment. There is also a 120 V outlet in that compartment and it's fed off the same inverter that feeds the TV. I put my Sat Rcvr and Bluray DVD player up there with a A-B HDMI switch to select which one goes to the Insignia Wall TV. There is an additonal HDMI jack on the left side of the TV you can see with a flashlight to add a HDMI cable there for connecting something too. I use it for my PC's HDMI output or for Apple TV.

The Bedroom and Outside TVs both have open HDMI jacks that require removal of those TV's from their mounts to get to them. I have added HDMI cables to those TVs, too so I can connect my PCs or Apple TVs to them.
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Old 05-04-2016, 09:21 AM   #26
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[QUOTE=powercat_ras;3052382]In 2015, there is a HDMI cable run to the compartment above the driver's seat and a Component + Composite + Audio cable runnng to the outside TV (if you have that option) from that same compartment. There is also a 120 V outlet in that compartment and it's fed off the same inverter that feeds the TV. I put my Sat Rcvr and Bluray DVD player up there with a A-B HDMI switch to select which one goes to the Insignia Wall TV. There is an additonal HDMI jack on the left side of the TV you can see with a flashlight to add a HDMI cable there for connecting something too. I use it for my PC's HDMI output or for Apple TV.

Thanks for the info! I will have to do some more checking. maybe the cable is disconnected some where. I tried to use the hdmi in the cap but didn't get any thing. I'm also not able to get the music from my front disk player to play to the outside speakers and by the looks of switch box and the wiring diagram I should be able to do that.wiring diagram.PDF
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Old 05-04-2016, 06:38 PM   #27
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Holt27n, there is only a composite video + audio feed from the center front console Pioneer stereo to the front room wall TV. If you have the outside TV, there should be a radio / DVD player below it, and it will play standard DVDs to the outside TV.

The Insignia TVs will not allow you to switch to an HDMI input until there is a signal on it, so you might try making sure your Apple TV is on and then hit Input on the Insignia TV and see if you can switch to it.

The only way you can get Apple TV on the outside or bedroom TVs will be to connect a HDMI cable to each one and put the Apple TV there when needed. There is no HDMI cable from the front cabinet compartment to either the bedroom or outside TVs. Hopefully Winnebago will get a clue that Composite Video and Component Video are becoming obsolete and start running all HDMI cables in 2017 models, and upgrade to a head unit in the dash with HDMI out. ( HINT - HINT TO WINNEBAGO ) The picture quality of the Pioneer Composite Video 480i signal to the front 46" TV is just a joke. I put in my own Blu-Ray DVD player in the overhead compartment so I could run it HDMI 1080i or 1080p to the TV.
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Old 05-04-2016, 10:46 PM   #28
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thanks Randy. That was all good info. I will try again and see if any of that works.
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