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Old 07-02-2017, 12:05 PM   #2913
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I was mistaken, I do have leaf springs, I thought the connecting plate was torsion , looks like it from a distance..Used my outside kitchen for the first time , LIKED IT !... Everything is fixed , new mattress , all that is missing is a buyer..
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Old 07-02-2017, 12:54 PM   #2914
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Thank you Bill, I just had the bumper reenforced as you described. Ironically the Winnebago rep told my salesman that with the tire rack another 200 pounds max can go on the bumper. I researched it carefully, got a non moveable rack and did as told. I am wondering if the sales rep actually did talk to a Winnebago rep. This could have been a disaster behind me. Thanks again.
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Old 07-02-2017, 01:46 PM   #2915
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3 Card Mmont View Post
I was mistaken, I do have leaf springs, I thought the connecting plate was torsion , looks like it from a distance..Used my outside kitchen for the first time , LIKED IT !... Everything is fixed , new mattress , all that is missing is a buyer..
I do all of our cooking on either a Smokey Joe charcoal grill or on the outside stove. I love our outdoor kitchen. Now that you've got everything fixed, it's time to enjoy it. Going through as much trouble as you have, you deserve to get some use out of it.
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Old 07-02-2017, 07:28 PM   #2916
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We Finally Did It. Just drove off with a 2018 2401 RG!

After reading this post for a long time now, we finally got a Minnie Winnebago ourselves. We just drove off with a 2018 Winnebago Minnie 2401 RG! Unfortunately, we are renting in Santa Cruz, CA and couldn't drove it home and had to take it to a storage facility. Being first time owners and having no experience at all with towing any advice would greatly be appreciated. We also have some very specific questions:

1. We forgot to look at our power connection, does anyone know if the 2401 rg has a 30 amp power connection or a 50?

2. What sort of surge protection do we need?

3. What size of generator do we need if we want to run the AC?

4. Any recommendation for solar?

Thank you in advance for your time and consideration. Happy 4th everyone!
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Old 07-03-2017, 05:35 AM   #2917
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian.Ng View Post
We also have some very specific questions:

1. We forgot to look at our power connection, does anyone know if the 2401 rg has a 30 amp power connection or a 50?

2. What sort of surge protection do we need?

3. What size of generator do we need if we want to run the AC?

4. Any recommendation for solar?

Thank you in advance for your time and consideration. Happy 4th everyone!
1. 30 amp

2. We use the EMS-HW30C...mounted it behind the converter

3. Roughly - 30 Amps x 120 Volts = 3600 watts. I believe people have done it with a 3100. Checkout the facebook group for Minnie Winnies https://www.facebook.com/groups/425391114324531/

4. Nope, sorry

Have fun!
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Old 07-03-2017, 05:54 AM   #2918
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3500 watts is minimum. I would go a little higher.
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Old 07-03-2017, 07:56 AM   #2919
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I bought a Champion 3400 watt inverter generator last year on sale. It runs the 15K AC unit just fine and most importantly, it runs the wife's coffee maker. Weight is about 100 lbs but it comes with wheels and once you get it out of the truck, it's easy to move around. It also has a remote start which appeals to my lazy streak.
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Old 07-03-2017, 08:16 AM   #2920
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Ian, congrats on the new rig!

Generator; I have 2x Honda 2000i generators (3200 running watts), when hooked together they run the AC just fine. Each weighs about 40# so they are easy to move about. Dead quiet, and I usually use only one for battery charging.

Solar: Solar is great but you have to live with its limitations; its a very expensive battery charger, it won't run your AC. It is silent when its charging, but can only do so when you are parked in full sun and, never at night, cloudy days will limit the amount of charge in a day. Rules of thumb: 1x100 watt panel per battery in your battery bank. You'll get about 5 hrs of solar output per day when you are parked in full sun. Switch to 2x 6v GC2 batteries before you do any solar. More batteries, the better, lithium if you have deep pockets!
Enjoy the experience!!
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Old 07-03-2017, 08:24 AM   #2921
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Badlands Bob View Post
I bought a Champion 3400 watt inverter generator last year on sale. It runs the 15K AC unit just fine and most importantly, it runs the wife's coffee maker. Weight is about 100 lbs but it comes with wheels and once you get it out of the truck, it's easy to move around. It also has a remote start which appeals to my lazy streak.
I bought one too Bob for my 2106, kept it in rear of truck bed, my power cord reached with little to spare, now with this 2200ss the cord about 4 ft short .. It's a little heavy to be taking out and putting back, Trying to find a 6ft extension 30 amp cord..
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Old 07-03-2017, 08:56 PM   #2922
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Update: TV has been successfully mounted!

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Hi all,
We just picked up our 2017 27BHSS and would like to mount a 19" LCD TV in the bedroom where the 110V outlet and cable hookup are located. However, I'm not sure if there's any backer behind the either of the closest walls, as there's nothing marked (unlike outside.)
Has anyone mounted a TV in the bedroom of this particular model? How did you do it?
Thanks for any information you can provide!
Gina.
I emailed Winnebago's customer support and after supplying them with the last 5 of my trailer's VIN, they sent me the schematic for the exterior wall closest to the 110V outlet and cable hookup. Lo and behold, there's a 14x14 EGS backer :-) I purchased a small TV mount from Amazon and did the install today using 1" sheet metal screws. All went well! I used a magnet and also a stud finder to give me a rough idea of where the metal was. I also drilled small pilot holes which produced metal shavings. Screwed things in by hand for the last few turns and we can now watch TV in the bedroom while the kids are sleeping

Thanks all for your advice,

Gina.
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Old 07-04-2017, 07:17 PM   #2923
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My 2401rg only came with one battery and I want to install another one. Has anyone done this before? Any recommendations on the battery? What else do I need other than the battery to connect it to the trailer? How difficult is this project? Thank you in advance for your help.
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Old 07-04-2017, 08:54 PM   #2924
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There are several ways to go about this. If your present battery is new, you can get another one just like it and hook them up together.
https://www.batterystuff.com/kb/arti...-tutorial.html

The problem you may run into is there may not be enough room on your tongue for two battery boxes. Your solution is a Century dual battery box. I had to get one to hold two 6 volt batteries. You'll also need several battery cables to link the batteries together. You can get these at any auto parts store.

https://www.allbatterysalesandservic...cfm/4,576.html

If you are adding a 12 volt battery, you will want to hook it up in parallel. If you are using two 6 volt batteries and want to end up with 12 volts, you hook them up in series. On an RV you are looking to get as many amp hours as possible at 12 volts. A good place to get the 6 volt batteries is Sam's Club. Two of them will give you about 225 amp hours.

Adding a battery is really pretty simple. You just have to gather up the right stuff.
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Old 07-05-2017, 05:04 AM   #2925
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What Bob said.

Just to elaborate a bit, two 6V in series means you double the volts but both stay at whatever Amp Hours they are rated at.
Two 12v in parallel means you stay at 12V but double that Amp Hours.
Personally, going to two 6v now when you have a new 12V is a huge waste of money. Live with the 12V and see how it does and upgrade later.
If you find the one 12V inadequate, supplement the 12V with a solar "suitcase".
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Old 07-06-2017, 12:55 PM   #2926
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On our trip to the east coast, Hatteras Island, SC, Florida, etc in May the display on the Tekonsha P3 brake controller died. The controller was still working so after consulting with Tekonsha we finished the trip. It had a problem before the display quit of intermittently indicating an overload no brakes warning. After I got home I talked with Tekonsha and they sent me a new P3 exchange at no charge. Great company. On our 4th of July camping trip I found out the overload alarm was still there on the new P3. The overload is caused by excessive current being detected due to a short circuit to ground (frame) on the blue wire. When this happens all breaking ceases. Not a good situation.

I have done a lot of research on the subject and it would seem to me that not only a P3 would shut down but any other brand including factory units would stop braking with a short circuit.

One of the things that can cause a short is a faulty magnet behind the brake drum. If there is exposed wiring on the surface of the magnet it can come in contact with the side of the drum causing a short. Usually if I see the alarm, I can let off the brakes briefly and quickly reapply them. Usually this works.

Some have said it is best to replace all of the brake wiring. The wiring on the inside of the axle housings should be run on the outside of the housings. Some have suggested to run the wiring to a barrier block on each side of the frame. That way the individual brakes could be easily disabled one at a time so that a test drive could be done to see if the problem went away. The brakes are wired in parallel and not in series.

I would really be interested if anyone else has had this kind of problem and how they corrected it. Here is a generic diagram from etrailer. I think rather than attaching one side of the magnet to the frame Winnebago runs a separate ground wire for the magnet.

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